Have my balls already been removed?

[88BB8B]

Hey everybody. I brough my welder to meet my re-manned crank today as we were gonna pull some balls and get the crud outa there. I also brough my "stock" crank which I'm told was also ground down.

First 2 pics are the new.
Last 2 are the old.

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Idk which company geound the old crank but it looks like the ball holes have been untouched. On the mew crank though it looks like somebody has (probably to replace the balls after cleaning?) counterbored and then punched the ball holes to hold the balls in. Mitsu didnt do this right?

The re-manufacturer of the new crank is crankshaft supply. They mention cleaning the crank but not to what extent.

Would you guys see it safe to run this crank without pulling the balls and cleaning, seeing the state it us in?
It is only ground 0.25mm under so almost definitely the only grind this crank has seen.

 

[Zack Huffman]

I wouldn't. I know a lot of guys will tell you to always pull the balls and clean it real good, but I am not one of them. Those press fit balls have to seal the oil passages that feed oil to the rod journals. You screw that up and you will weld a rod to the crank and window the block.

Just my opinion, but if you do pull the balls, you don't hack up the crank reinstalling them. I would freeze the balls/bake the crank and then hammer a pair of stakes for each in the least, but I sure as heck wouldn't drill out the holes.

I also won't use a reground crank. But that's off topic.

 

[88BB8B]

That's what I'm worried about. If it's already clean enough in there then I dont want to pull the balls and possibly screw up the crank for nothing. As for the cut, 0.25mm is only 0.010" so hopefully most of the hardening remains and the crank works. I don't think this motor will see more than 400ft/lbs anytime soon.

 

[bastarddsm]

I use several cans of carb clean. Bend the straw to go down in the passage all the way to the ball, and spray and agitate. I use some 0.023" welding wire too. Keep doing it till shit quits coming out. Like 6 cans worth.

 

[barza21]

Here is some info on what I did a few years back when I rebuilt the engine. I remember having the crank cleaned at the shop and tried cleaning it some more at home after I got it back, but read some stories about people spinning bearings due to that debry coming loose after the crank being cleaned by a machine shop. So, I did end up having the balls pulled, cleaned the passages from the other side, and then plugged them shut. I believe the procedure for plugging them is on the final post of this link https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gentlemen-take-care-of-your-balls.497937/

Oscar

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I agree 100% with @bastarddsm. Leave the balls alone, clean them as he has instructed and keep cleaning until NO DEBRIS comes out. It will take SEVERAL cans of brake cleaner, although I did have one crank that only used 3 cans and it was clean.
Dales article from way back is a very good read...…..https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/pull-your-balls-to-properly-clean-your-crank.472402/
Marty

 

[Mech Addict]

Seriously! nobody bit on this title...
Like "if you have to ask..."
I mean I'm not suggesting anything too crude, but obviously it was written as an invitation of sorts.

btw, the actual content of the question was interesting. I wasn't even aware that this is how the cranks are manufactured. Seems like a well-placed steel punch would keep those balls in place (Ha, get it; it works both ways!).
Oh well..

 

[88BB8B]

Haha. I was hoping somebody might get a kick out of the title. This topic is always full of inuendos.

I really appreciate the input. I will clean it as instructed without removing the balls. Any other tips to make sure I get it all? cause I dont wanna spin more bearings.

I'm hoping that I'll find, trusty ol' Crankshaft Supply has done the work for me. Thanks for the help everybody.