The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

GSX AutoX Street Mod

silvreclips

Proven Member
1,283
345
Jul 19, 2005
Greenville, South_Carolina
@miguelmcv yea you are correct. I was just throwing out the idea, I didn't think it through. But either way yea a larger pulley should help out. I run an under drive pulley on the crank and my PS still works fine at idle.

I'll go out and measure how much the diameter changed just to give you an idea.

You may be able to just make a spacer for that line instead of making a whole new one. Does anyone make a larger pulley or does it have to be custom?
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
what you could do is take out your spring and install a slightly stiffer spring in its place,

a bigger pully would work and a bigger crank dampner would also help this but not as much as the pully on the ps pump itself.

another thing to look at is the evospec pully kit they make, its over sized for the waterpump so slows down the pump and also will slow down the powersteering pump also

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/new-billet-underdrive-water-pump-pulley.524417/

http://evospecperformance.com/
 

silvreclips

Proven Member
1,283
345
Jul 19, 2005
Greenville, South_Carolina
Also, when I modded my PS pump, which is a bit different then the 4g pump, I wasn't able to shim the spring, I drilled out the holes some that restrict fluid flow at high rpm. Maybe that would help eliminate the high rpm cutout.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I asked evospec and the normal version is $125 and if you want it anodized its 160 they do 3 version but V1 is there unit with the PS pully attached
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
I was thinking of staying away from changing the crank pulley size. I was thinking of it as I need my waterpump to spin quickly because Running the car hard at slow speeds heats it up quickly. I'll look at the slower water pump. It just seems weird to me. Changing that spring is also an interesting idea.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I was thinking of staying away from changing the crank pulley size. I was thinking of it as I need my waterpump to spin quickly because Running the car hard at slow speeds heats it up quickly. I'll look at the slower water pump. It just seems weird to me. Changing that spring is also an interesting idea.
The idea of over spinning the pump is not as you think, the faster you spin it the more bubbled you create and its not good for cooling. You might find slowing down the pump will work better for you as thats what alot of people try and do. Its why im looking to go EWP because i can control the speeds and it wont over spin the pump to levels it cannot control temps well
 

silvreclips

Proven Member
1,283
345
Jul 19, 2005
Greenville, South_Carolina
Bobby, your talking about cavitation, it's a possibility if the impeller does spin to fast, but I would expect to see impeller damage and possible pump failure if that was the case. Are there other ways to tell if that's happening?
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Bobby, your talking about cavitation, it's a possibility if the impeller does spin to fast, but I would expect to see impeller damage and possible pump failure if that was the case. Are there other ways to tell if that's happening?
Thats the word, i forgot it as i was tryping LOL, I dont know how to check for it or if its happening. Other cars get around this by modifying the fans in the housing but if that would work on ours i dont know. The easiest way to solve most of the issues is the pully to slow it down, it still works but up top it does not over spin causing issues
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
Maybe you need to eliminate the spring completely and find something rigid that is the same size so the restrictor valve can not engage ever.
I have a spare P/S pump I can take apart and see. However I believe the reason it is in there is so the pump doesn't over pressurize and blow the seals on the rack. It might work for a stock rev limit because the pump is spinning within stock limits. I am going to try a 8k rev limit this year. With the pressure increasing as the rpm increases, over stock rev limit could cause a pressure problem. I might look at removing the spring and making it fixed, like you suggested, and then having an inline pressure relief valve. The relief valve would still keep a limit on pressure but not impede flow rate to nothing like the stock valve does.
 

silvreclips

Proven Member
1,283
345
Jul 19, 2005
Greenville, South_Carolina
Without a pressure sensor on the high pressure line we will never know. When I modded mine (420a) I drilled out the holes essentially making the spring regulator useless. I have had no issues with my 7.5k rev limit currently. I also am running an under drive crank pulley so the pump does turn slower then stock.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
You might be onto something.

Bobby could make it.
I have my old pump i had to replace so i could look at it and see how that would work, not sure if its got a built in bypass for lower revs or some safety thing
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Without a pressure sensor on the high pressure line we will never know. When I modded mine (420a) I drilled out the holes essentially making the spring regulator useless. I have had no issues with my 7.5k rev limit currently. I also am running an under drive crank pulley so the pump does turn slower then stock.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Got pics of your process? Im thinking the passsge ways could be larger reducing the pressure, as a guess. I would really have to play around with it more and see
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,381
2,701
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
So when i rebuilt my spare pump ages ago and installed a few weeks back i stretched the spring out because this ruins the preset tension but it helps keep it further up. Its not the most well engineered way of doing it but it will work. Just dont over do it though or you will cause more issues then fixing. I did mine about 7-10mm.

Im still looking into it to see if there is a much better solution thats drop in
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
I'm going to look at making a different sized P/S pump pulley on the water pump. I noticed the pulley on the pump doesn't look like it comes off easily. There are a few ways to get it done. Thanks for the ideas.

I also have a question about my next mod. I am in the process of building a 2.3 6 bolt. I will be using a 2g head. I have been thinking about break in. Its not as easy using the same tune because even though all of the parts are the same at first, I have 0.3L more displacement. I am on speed density, is that going to be enough to do a quick 15 min break in? I will probably add a bit more fuel globally to help and will watch the AFR doing my pulls.
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

congratulations on the cover shot of then KY event! I hope to see you there.

Thanks. I actually am in charge of timing and scoring/registration so I have an inside edge for event pics LOL.

Sucks we have had to cancel so many but it seems we will be on for our June 7th event. Fingers crossed.
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
Where to begin. In March of 2020 I bought my first house (signed the papers literally days before everything got shutdown the first time). It is more or less half house and half garage. The back garage is a little bigger than a 20'x20'. The front garage is 12ish feet wide and probably 30 to 40 feet long. You can see the gap in between the house and garage. To the left of the gap is the house, to the right of the gap is the garage.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The front garage
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The back garage
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Once I got all moved in, I pretty much put the car on hold as I had a whole new list of house related items to attend to. However, one of my buddies found a black roller with only 56k miles and no rust nearby. This is where the project becomes a big project. Enter the black Talon with only 56k miles.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

There was now a new plan, swap everything over from the red car and build a ground up Street Mod autocross car. I'm talking going through too many rulebook pages and making a list of things to do.
This is what the garage looked like going into winter of 2020. Both DSMs next to each other ready for work and the Datsun wanting some off season loving as well. (This back garage is insulated)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I will stop here for now. I guess I'll just keep going through my pictures and add info if I come across a car related pic until I get caught back up.
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
At this point is was time to start taking all the stock parts off of the black car. All suspension parts, subframes, stock brake booster/master, fuel system, etc. I have piles of stock junk scattered everywhere.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

All emissions items were removed. All the creature comforts were out (cruise control, AC). Passenger side airbag is removed. Will grab a carbon insert for the passenger airbag. It might also be a good spot for some electronics too. I have a tablet that runs Solostorm for Autocross data acquisition and the PiLink that I still have to figure out. Interior will be removed as much as the rules let me. I will use the same Corbeau driver seat I have and will most likely take the Kirkey that is in the passenger side of the Datsun and mount it in the passenger side of the Talon. I swapped my 3g brake booster and master cylinder over from the red car, much easier with nothing in the engine bay. Battery was relocated to the hatch area on the passenger side as it was before. Still thinking what to do about the power steering. It will have to be electro-hydraulic as I can't modify the steering column. It definitely will NOT be the junk stock unit that fought me all the time.

Since this is now a "ground up" build. I wanted everything to be stiffened up. I want no rubber in the suspension besides the tires. I already have all the VOLK and fiba_uk(Bobby) control arms so those are all solid. That means time to give VOLK some more of my money for solid aluminum goodies.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If want to do some sketchy stuff, try pressing in some solid bushings into both subframes with the classic Harbor Freight bottle jack "press". I have never used so many random pieces of metal and wood to get something to press. The bushings were no match for my stubbornness, however.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

As I am sure everyone knows, the parts from VOLK are quality and everything lined up and still bolted to the car after install. I pressed all the bushings into both subframes.

By this time it is about April 2021, that means race season was starting back up. My buddy also has a 2g that he had started autocrossing and we were working on it a lot. I was basically using it to procrastinate from working on mine. I didn't do too much to it throughout the year.

(MAY 2021) I was thinking about buying a fuel cell from someone who made bolt in replacement fuel cells that sit where the the stock tank is (easy). Instead, it was decided to buy a standard fuel cell and mount it in the spare tire well for more weight in the rear (hard). Enter my first welder. The PrimeWeld 225X AC/DC TIG and stick welder. I already know how to handle a mig welder a little bit but wanted the TIG for aluminum. I had only tried a few times to TIG weld for 30 mins tops. I picked the worst project to start with as a beginner (I had put a week or 2 into practice welds on a table). The metal in the spare tire well is so thin and old so naturally it was damn near impossible at first. Plus I was either laying on my back on the ground or on my stomach laying inside the back seat area. My idea was to cut and bend tabs down where the fuel cell mounts up, then box them in with my 20 hours of TIG experience.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Cut and lay the flaps flat
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Box them in and bolt in the fuel cell. Sounds easy. Definitely was not. Attempting this is what caused the biggest slow in progress. The frustration of learning to TIG weld and fighting my lack of knowledge early on really made it hard to go out and finish it. After months of doing nothing to the car I had at least watched no less than 75 hours of basic TIG videos on YouTube. I now know TIG is about prep. Clean metal and no gaps between parts make for a MUCH easier time focusing on welding and not making the panel look like swiss cheese. This learning process from newb to beginner took a few months with everything else going on. (I am happy to say, all corners are boxed in as of Jan 2022. I won't post pics until its covered in paint though haha.)

(June 2022) I did do something I think is pretty cool. I put my 3D modeling to work and made a gauge pod that sits in the center vent area. I wanted more visibility around the A pillars after noticing some pictures where I was having to move my head to look around the standard 3 gauge pod A pillar housing. I also wanted them angled more towards the driver to be seen easier.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

After a few tries to get the curves right, I 3D printed one out and it fit nicely.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


More to come...
 

96dsmftw

Supporting Member
251
144
Jun 23, 2011
Richmond, Kentucky
Do you have a page on the Datsun?
I actually do not. I haven't done much to it since I got it so haven't felt the need to. But in case you were wondering:

1978 Datsun 280z
2.8L I6 Fuel Injected on MegaSquirt
5spd w/ 4.10 LSD rear end\
Stock struts with lowering springs
Fully gutted with a half cage
Race seats/harnesses
Only a spot or two of rust

Datsun Autocross Run

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top