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grinds in first, bad syncro?

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slow2g420

Probationary Member
27
0
Apr 12, 2009
De Pere, Wisconsin
the car is a 95 talon tsi awd, pretty much stock except it has an act 2600 clutch. i bought the car and it would grind in first randomly sometimes and if you pumped the clutch it would eventually go in. car sat for a while then went to tune it and the slave went out so i put on a new one. i properly bled it using the guide and it will still grind in first at a dead stop(but only some times). also if you pull it out of gear and try to go to a diffrent one sometimes it wont let you on a low speed down shift. and randomy it will want to almost grind or not go into a gear during an up shift. i brought it to a shop and they power bled it and it seemed to make it worse. any help would be great because its driving me nuts. im at the point of almost delling this car
 
Pedal Adjustment. Bent Clutch Fork. Improperly bled Slave Cyl. Sounds like your clutch is dragging or you don't have enough movement at the fork to fully disengage the pressure plate from the clutch.

When you bled the slave, did you make sure that someone was holding the pedal down to the floor when you opened the valve? Also, when the pressure was released, did you push the slave cyl ALL THE WAY IN by hand to get rid of the air pocket behind the cylinder? Once you press it in, you THEN close the bleeder valve, release the slave cyl, and have the clutch buddy pump the clutch a few times. If you fail to press the slave cylinder all the way in and only release the valve to relieve pressure.. then it won't function correctly.
 
yea i bled it just like u described. im thinking the clutch isnt adjusted correctly since it now has a heavier pressure plate on it. i will have to try that then see if that helps. its just so frustrating. should i add some syncromesh to help to?
 
i maxed out the adjustment rod on the master and i can still push the slave in. it takes some force but it can be done. its also a new slave. im going to get a master cylinder next and if that doesnt work im going to get a ss braided line from stm. it has to be hydrolic since i adjusted the rod and it worked butter smooth and then i started the car up again and it grinded in reverse and first. had to pump the clutch to get it to work
 
with all this pumping y0u have to do, it must be the master...replace the master and then bleed the clutch again.
 
i replaced the master and it worked great. then i let the car sit for a few hours and went to try and move it and it grinded in reverse and wouldnt let me go in. when i bled the slave i took out the bleeder and pushed in the rod and put the bleeder back on and the rod didnt return like it said in the how to. i had to go pump the clutch to get it to make pressure. even tho its a new slave could it just be bad? when i got it i pushed in the rod and i just stayed and didnt return even when it wasnt hooked up. the only thing i can think is to either rebuild the new slave or try ss braided line or re bleed but ive bled this system so much already.
 
ok turns out the slave is fine. i also adjusted the rod on the master just like in jacks transmission video. no it seems to work but ive heard of pple with the act 2600 street disk that they will make these adjustments and it will work then it will stop working which is what has happend to me three times already. i also read that with this setup i might have the wrong step height or that the piviot ball needs to be shimmed or the fork could be bent. any ideas? i know extended rods are bandaids but at this point im game to ttry anything, i might even just put a stock clutch back in but thats alot of work to maybe not fix the problem
 
Pedal Adjustment. Bent Clutch Fork. Improperly bled Slave Cyl. Sounds like your clutch is dragging or you don't have enough movement at the fork to fully disengage the pressure plate from the clutch.

When you bled the slave, did you make sure that someone was holding the pedal down to the floor when you opened the valve? Also, when the pressure was released, did you push the slave cyl ALL THE WAY IN by hand to get rid of the air pocket behind the cylinder? Once you press it in, you THEN close the bleeder valve, release the slave cyl, and have the clutch buddy pump the clutch a few times. If you fail to press the slave cylinder all the way in and only release the valve to relieve pressure.. then it won't function correctly.

this is the typical way of bleeding a pressure system n it works with lots of patiance, but ive used for the first time a pressure bleeder n its a one man process n flawless if done right. so if ya knw someone who has one a pressure bleeder will eliminate tht factor.
 
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