- Jan 28, 2003
Looks like you got a stiff one, Mr. Goblin!
Adding any weight is always a bad idea unless your rule say you have to add some. If that is the case you still want to reduce your polar moments (not having weight hanging off either end) so keeping it as far inboard as you can is best. Also as you move the wing mounts futher back you increase the jacking effect in the front and can make balancing the car difficult. That how it was explained to me and also how I read it in books like Tune to Win. That being said I just went with what I think is best and by no means saying I'm correct.The lower mount will b alot further back yes, the wing platform / chord will be not that much further bsck then yours i think, metals in now so i can get woking in it, i also wanted it back further because as ou say weight! I need more back there being FWD i feel as if the rear can us some more since my tank will be smaller and lighter i have to add som somehow! And i gestimate the weight to be around 6 kg total oveall once finishd and bolted in! And i also wanted to be different as you possibly know i like to be haha
And thanks for you kind words! Your work is also awesome and very inspiring and builds like yours and others is what helps me want to progress further
I understand the weight thing, im just shifting stuff around and using what i can to place weight at areas. Infact thinking about it some mou ting ways i have seen on these cars mine i dont think will weight alot more then some others, i am also not going to be classed by weight so i am free for that,Adding any weight is always a bad idea unless your rule say you have to add some. If that is the case you still want to reduce your polar moments (not having weight hanging off either end) so keeping it as far inboard as you can is best. Also as you move the wing mounts futher back you increase the jacking effect in the front and can make balancing the car difficult. That how it was explained to me and also how I read it in books like Tune to Win. That being said I just went with what I think is best and by no means saying I'm correct.
This build is awesome! Props for the amount of work you've put into this car, pretty inspiring actually. I spent my entire lunch break reading though the thread and you're doing some amazing stuff. I do have a question though regarding a picture a couple pages back:
I noticed (I think, maybe I'm seeing this wrong) that the wing will actually be mounted inside the trunk and I was wondering how you got the holes in the trunk lid lined up so well for the mount. I've never been able to get situations like that to work out well enough for me to be happy with them and yours look perfect.
That's smart using white out, and maybe my problem is I'm not patient enough . I was also wondering about if the hatch closed crooked it would just ram into the clevis, so thanks for explaining that as well. Good luck with the rest of the project, I'll definitely keep an eye out for updates!The hardest part was making sure that the mounts were at the correct height. That really took a lot of measuring and mock up to get them perfect. As for cutting the slots that was pretty straightforward. I used white out on the ends of the clevis to mark the underside of the hatch. Then took a very and I mean very small drillbit and drilled a pilot hole then. Then very slowly expanded with different size drillbits until I reached one of the edges of the clevis. Once that happened very slowly opened up the hole with both the drill and my micro files working all the slots pretty much at the same time until very slowly the hatch would fully close. I have about a 1/8 or so gap all the way around. That's pretty important so if you lower the hatch off angle you do not get bound up. You should note that "very slowly" was used a lot. I spent a few hours on it so I didn't end up with an extra window.
if you want a stat then you need to keep and modify the oem housing then have an external swirl pot insteadHe does do amazing work and I almost pulled the trigger on that swirl pot but not sure how it's going to run coolant temp wise without a t-stat, not sure the car would ever warm up to operating temp.
the lower hose will go straight into the pump side NOT the swirl pot!Heads up he doesn't have a connection for the lower radiator hose so you'd need to run the 6 bolt water pipe.
Swirl pot is a neat idea. V8 guys have been using vapor steam ports for years now, so its not out of the ordinary to diy one for a budget build as well (the one below actually has 2 vapor vent pots ) they don't swirl, so it would be interesting to see if the swirl actually reduced cooling system pressure as well as temperatures by conducting heat and fluid with no loss in flow from uneven pressure areas. Seems like a very engineered solution. Thermal dynamics is fun !
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You'd just have to modify the 2g water pipe to curve out and down from the block like a 1g for the lower radiator hose, with a welder anything is possible!Heads up he doesn't have a connection for the lower radiator hose so you'd need to run the 6 bolt water pipe.