Greddy Type S bov....this is weird

[wilddog]

I plan on running higher boost and wanted to ensure if the type s could handle around 20 psi. So I connected a pressure regulator to my compressor, and connected the regulator to the bov. Well something REALLY strange happened, I adjusted the hard/soft setting so that it would hold 20psi without leaking. Well as I increased pressure to 25psi, the leaking stopped and when I decreased pressure to 10 psi, the leaking got even worse . Can someone please explain whats going on? I just think the valve isnt seating properly. Cheers

 

[talontedtsi1995]

no never noticed that, so do you think i would run the lower line to the intake pipe? im not sure how to go about drilling into the pipe to put a line in...

 

[wilddog]

Thanks for the comments guys, but I Really cant do a boost leak test. I need to get a uicp and if this greddy bov is busted, Im probably going to go tial as I foresee 26-28 psi on drag strip days. Which Ive heard is over the limit of the type S. I can try to rig 2 pressure regulators, one to the inlet and the other to the nipple, do I need to equalize pressures?? Like I said this HAS to be tested before I throw it on. CHeers

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Hey, how are you presurizing the valve with the bov not on a car? Yes you will need equal pressure to the top nipple and the inderside of the valve to actually tell you whats going on. Goodluck, and thats the only way it can be done...I would honistly find a way to get it on someones car who can test if for you, because it would be a shame if you got rid of a perfectly good Type S because of a botched test.

 

[daren_p]

Ya if you can pressurize both sides this will probably give you half descent results. What you did before will tell you nothing as far as how much boost the valve will hold, so don't base your jusgement on that. When you pressurize both side you may not get 100% accurate results as you won't be able to reproduce 100% how each side get pressurized & you don't have the effect of the bov outlet connected to your intake when installed (which when under boost would be like a vacuum). But if you try to increase them both equally, this will probably give you good enough results to see if the valve works or not. 26-28psi shouldn't be an issue for the Type S & I don't see a MAF setup in your profile (unless I missed it) so you shouldn't be getting a Tial either as you can't recirculate them. Basically the only real way of knowing is to install it on the car & test it that way.

 

[red_devil]

You can T off of it, I have no Ill effects. It works GREAT

Ok I tired hooking up the lower nipple on the Greddy by T'ing from my EBC nipple on my J-pipe. Put it to its hardest setting and now my car creeps real bad. I would tend to creep to 20psi before=EVO III but that was at 5000rpm +, now it starts hitting 20psi at 3500rpm. I tired going softer with the same effects.

All my settings are the same as before.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Ok I tired hooking up the lower nipple on the Greddy by T'ing from my EBC nipple on my J-pipe. Put it to its hardest setting and now my car creeps real bad. I would tend to creep to 20psi before=EVO III but that was at 5000rpm +, now it starts hitting 20psi at 3500rpm. I tired going softer with the same effects.

All my settings are the same as before.

I dont know much about the EBC's. This set up worked on my car and on a few local I have seen in person. Maybe make another nipple for the bov.

 

[red_devil]

To add, my Greddy has always made a flutter sound even at full boost (surge?)

Im going to tighten all my hose connections and maybe try to adjust it a little more, but which way soft or hard?

 

[cooldude919]

From what ive read, the further the screw is out the loser it is, and of course the further it is in the harder it is, so should follow normal left-loose right-tight standards. I have a ebay knock off type s i will be installing next week. Trying to decide if i should do the single spring mod, or try hooking up a boost source. What do you guys think?

 

[daren_p]

red_devil, flutter usually indicates its adjusted to hard, losen it off abit & see how that works.

cooldude919, why don't you just hook it up the std way at first & see how that works for you? Alot of the time the second boost source or single spring mod isn't required which also gives you the ability to hold the most boost & be the fastest acting.

 

[cooldude919]

Ok, thanks for the tip. I thought i would just try to plan ahead and get some things done now to save myself trouble later if i could. I have a hard pipe kit comming, along with a 14b and everything i need to swap that out. Hopefully everything comes in by next weekend, should be a fun time . Now i just need to save up and go for fuel mods next.

 

[red_devil]

Ok I finally fixed my bov flutter problem. A few vacuum lines were loose and I kept adjusting the bov until I got no flutter. I still get a little at low boost though so I might adjust it a little more tomorrow.

 

[GSXspeeddemon]

so let me get this straight as i just bought a 20g with a nipple on the compressor housing. You run line from intake mani to top nipple. You then run line from nipple to mbc to wastegate? and if you want to run second line to bottom nipple, do you tee in before or after mbc to wastegate.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

The side closer to the compressor housing.