Got the motor out of the car and nearly cried~!

[ViperXavier]

Upon pulling the motor of my 95 GST I heard some rattleing in the oil pan.

Once I got the oil pan off I saw metal shards pretty much covering the bottom of the pan.
I pulled this out of the block just floating around

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As I kept my hopes up that I could reuse the block I found this nice hole in the block above the balance shaft............

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I have been unable to find a motor within 100 miles.
So I'm thinking on an E-bay motor.
My question is has anyone bought a motor off e-bay was it a good motor ran well ect?

Also I noticed the block I have does not have oil squirters in it does that mean it was org a 4g63 N/T block?

 

[boostx]

Wow.. If you have a good machine shop you can just get some rods and a crank

 

[95fwdtsi18psi]

That almost made me cry looking at it.

 

[My1GLaser]

I bought a motor/trans off ebay and it was fine. It was from a person and not one of those JDM suppliers.

If the oil galley isn't busted then the block might be fine and that small hole can be welded.

How do the mains look? You might just be able to get a crank and reuse the block.

 

[brian9397gsx]

6 bolt motors when equipted with a turbo from the factory have oil squirters. so if your block dosent its a non turbo

 

[liquidz28]

i QQ for you

 

[EMFR]

When i was looking for a motor i was having trouble finding one as well. Anyway just wanted to give you another option (besides ebay), i ended up getting my 6-bolt at karking.com
Came in about a week in a half fully timed and everything the swap went through w/o any major problems.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

My six bolt has squirters too, you were running a N/A engine. You have my condolences on your recent loss.

 

[blue98gst]

Thats pretty chewed up, you have my condolences as well.

 

[rush2252]

There is a 6bolt block and crank in OK. He wants $75 for it. Im sure you could source a shipping company most companys offer a pallet fee of $35.00 flat. If you look im sure you can find a good block there are tons of FL guys on the forum.

Kolby

 

[cardot33]

Ouch, that reminds me of my last engine in my camaro. It threw a timing chain and had more water in the crankcase than oil. That hole does look weldable though, maybe you can save the block.

 

[viprez586]

I've got a 6 bolt crank if you plan on going that route.

I wouldn't weld the block, you're already taking a chance on it being weak.

 

[GS-T_Newboost]

He said he pulled the motor out of his 95 gst which means no oilsquirters cause its a 7 bolt. IM 99.9% sure that 2g 7 bolt motors dont have oil squirters. I know mine out of my 97 gst didnt.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

All factory turbo engines (1G and 2G) have oil squirters.

All NT engines do not. He has either a 6 bolt NT (late '89 to mid '92) engine or a 7 bolt NT engine (mid '92 to the end of production in '94) in his car.

 

[dented_coffee]

depending on how bad and if the rod goudged the cylinder walls block should still be ok because it wasnt seized or anything like that. but having no oil squirters means that its a non turbo. the non turbo engins have a higher compression wich is a little more strenuous on the engine running turbo i have seem many n/t engine throw rods because its not actually designed for turbo use. thats why mose places say use at your own descretion. because they are not responcible for the damage done. if your looking for a nice replacement engine i have the best solution posible its on this website for a 4G63 short block (http://www.jisautoengine.com/mitsubishi-eclipse-galant-89---92-short-block-misb4g63d.html), or one of these links for a long block (mitsubishi-eclipse-galant-engine-long-block-milb4g63d), (http://www.jisautoengine.com/hyundai-sonata-92-98-4g63-engine-long-block-milb4g63d.html). i have gotten 2 engines from this place and both of the engins i had i took them apart to make shure everything is tight to specs and that there was no hidden defects all perfect. everything is clean and brand new just a factory reconditioned block and head on the long block. im curently half way threw my masters degree in all around automative. remember trust the pros befor the hoes.

 

[snakeyes711]

Just send me that block, I'll fill that hole with some cast rods, and resurface that crank, and get a piston kit. with some 2g rods. Come on man a welding shop could fix that hole for cheap. Its not a crack, welding cracks in cast in my experience is the hard part not filling up a hole. Then send that crank to a machine shop. New bearings, rods, and a piston kit. It'd be around maybe 500, and then you'd KNOW you had a good bottom end.

 

[ViperXavier]

Just send me that block, I'll fill that hole with some cast rods, and resurface that crank, and get a piston kit. with some 2g rods. Come on man a welding shop could fix that hole for cheap. Its not a crack, welding cracks in cast in my experience is the hard part not filling up a hole. Then send that crank to a machine shop. New bearings, rods, and a piston kit. It'd be around maybe 500, and then you'd KNOW you had a good bottom end.

The cly wall for the #1 piston is trashed I'd say the gouge is about .035 deep

The piston

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I tried to remove the crank broke 5 sockets

I did get 1 out of 7 bolts

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I borrowed bertha from work

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Still no good with 700 flb of tq

I am looking at a long block for $1200.00. Down side I just spent my build money on a Hx40 1050 cc injectors AFPR fuel pump FMIC. So it's gona be some time befor I get around to it.

 

[lacroixdp]

Use a Nitrocat impact wrench - much smaller than that and it's 1000FT/LB of torque. I haven't met anything on a car yet that it hasn't been able to bust loose.

 

[rush2252]

Okay so after the pics Ive gotta hear the story on how she desecrated??? Over revving? or uber amounts of knock??

 

[Phantom DSM]

depending on how bad and if the rod goudged the cylinder walls block should still be ok because it wasnt seized or anything like that. but having no oil squirters means that its a non turbo. the non turbo engins have a higher compression wich is a little more strenuous on the engine running turbo i have seem many n/t engine throw rods because its not actually designed for turbo use. thats why mose places say use at your own descretion. because they are not responcible for the damage done. if your looking for a nice replacement engine i have the best solution posible its on this website for a 4G63 short block (http://www.jisautoengine.com/mitsubishi-eclipse-galant-89---92-short-block-misb4g63d.html), or one of these links for a long block (mitsubishi-eclipse-galant-engine-long-block-milb4g63d), (http://www.jisautoengine.com/hyundai-sonata-92-98-4g63-engine-long-block-milb4g63d.html). i have gotten 2 engines from this place and both of the engins i had i took them apart to make shure everything is tight to specs and that there was no hidden defects all perfect. everything is clean and brand new just a factory reconditioned block and head on the long block. im curently half way threw my masters degree in all around automative. remember trust the pros befor the hoes.

Interesting how can this place (first link) afford to sell rebuilt 4g63 6 bolts for $400 . Sounds crazy man, might as well buy that if its for real.

 

[grantman10]

Not to get off topic but this does seem like a pretty crazy deal...

I'm sure they use mostly non-OEM parts, but a $400 short block is cheap. I just paid 1500 for my short block to get built and i already had the crank and rods .

I wish i would have went this route...

 

[ViperXavier]

Okay so after the pics Ive gotta hear the story on how she desecrated??? Over revving? or uber amounts of knock??

I traded my 1994 Firebird for the car (after spending insane amounts of $ to keep the darned thing running I wanted it gone) I was told the car had a bad knock and it had thrown a spun a bearing.(I did'nt care I was gona rebuild the motor either way)
I already bought a 2.3l stroker kit 20 over forged pistons rods ect hx40 turbo full fuel system upgrade and so on now I'm broke and needing a whole new motor

 

[snakeyes711]

The cly wall for the #1 piston is trashed I'd say the gouge is about .035 deep

The piston

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I tried to remove the crank broke 5 sockets

I did get 1 out of 7 bolt

Still no good with 700 flb of tq

I am looking at a long block for $1200.00. Down side I just spent my build money on a Hx40 1050 cc injectors AFPR fuel pump FMIC. So it's gona be some time befor I get around to it.

Ouch! Do they have sleeves pressed in? If not go for the new block. Thats a tough deal you got there. I can't see why those bolts wouldn't come out. Has that engine been sitting for a while?

I remember a few years ago I had a rod let go in my GSXR, it completely destroyed the #3 piston all I found was parts of it. the sleeve was trashed to I took it, and had a new sleeve pressed in the block. Then welded the hole in the engine case up. It was a mess. God Damn Suzuki, and their shim style rocker adjusters one popped out, and held the valve open for the piston to beat the hell out of.

Worse comes to worse sell the go fast parts, and start from scratch. I've had to do that before. Good Luck

 

[TrevorS]

Also I noticed the block I have does not have oil squirters in it does that mean it was org a 4g63 N/T block?

Ouch -- major bummer man ! The 1G oil squirters are very obvious and easy to spot. The 2G squirters are like stealth and easy to miss. No expert myself, but I've read you basically have to look right down the cylinder from the top to even have a chance of spotting the 2G squirters. They're set back into the cylinder walls.

 

[justinhill98gst]

I just bought a motor from MITSUBISHI Engines, Used Engines, Remanufactured Engines, Reman Engines, Rebuilt Engines, Reconditioned Engines, Reman Auto Parts , they have great service and make sure you get a healthy motor and they also warranty it for one year.