Getting to head gasket

[ManiacMartel]

hey guys . First desk and new here. It's a turboed 420a and have a bunch of problems with it . Biggest right now being that I'm almost certain the head gasket is gone.( white smoke, slightly beige oil) . I have the valve cover off but can't find a decent how to guide for getting the rest out, like the timing belt and head . Any one replaced their head gasket and have some tips ?

 

[ManiacMartel]

Dsm **

 

[Zero6391]

its actually pretty easy to get the head off and timing belt, just loosen the timing belt tensioner and the belt comes off, then remove the cams and any misc stuff like manifolds and such and then remove the head bolts and viola done. if u want you can go to orielly's or autozone and buy a chiltons manual, they are like 20 bucks and help a lot. I used it for help disassembling the 420a and 4g63 motor and I can say its one of the best invests for a at home mechanic

 

[ManiacMartel]

Ok sounds easy enough haha can I leave the cams and rollers and everything intact and just unbolt the head ? And ok I'll definitely do that haha

 

[ManiacMartel]

On another note , I did a dry compression test and got 159/170/190/55.. any idea what could cause that ? ( apparently the pistons and rings only had around 60,000km on them ) I've seen something about the most driver side head bolt bottoming out before actually getting tight on the gasket .. do you think that would cause that kind of pissy compression ?

 

[XiholdtrueX]

if its not torqued correctly and there is a leak in the cylinder yea it could cause that compression, I would double check everything to be on the safe side, and I hope you torqued it down right and cleaned out the bolt holes. good luck good sir ,head gaskets were always my weak point always messed them up somehow

 

[Zero6391]

I don't think so the cams are almost directly on top of the head bolts so itll make it easier to get to with them out but that's just me. and I have heard of that but I believe that only causes the oil leak in between the head and block on the back, as for the compression numbers it could be any number of factors from valves not closing correctly (from carbon build up, seafoam works good) to bad piston rings. did you try a wet compression too? if the numbers are higher that way then that means it is piston rings. they may only have 60k on them but they might break if there was a defect in them ya know and it could be as simple as a bad tester. Ive gotten bad compression testers right out the box before

 

[ManiacMartel]

I swear my head is gunna explode with all this stuff to know . I used sea foam when I first bought it, but didn't really change anything and no I should have done a wet test before tearing everything apart -_- . And serious?! Crocked companies eh
Ok so for the cam gears . How should I go about keeping all the timing correct ?( asumming it is correct right now )

 

[Zero6391]

yea with aftermarket companies maaking most of our stuff now they try to go the cheap route so sometimes its a hit or miss but I trust sealed power for rings tho, I used them in my rebuild 7 months ago. well before u remove the head rotate everything to where is lined up then remove the belt, don't worry about the marks until time to reinstall it and then just zip tie the belt to the cams and then use a box end wrench (I believe its a 17mm bolt on the cams) and then when you have the belt wrapped around the sprockets rotate the cam slightly towards the firewall until the cams are lined up with the top of the head than if you have someone with you have then rotate the crank by hand to have the marks line up and at this point everything will line up and all the slack will be on the side of the timing tensioner and then just pull the pin and let it set. easier to show than explain

 

[ManiacMartel]

Bahaha yeah no kidding. I'd like to find a step by step guide or something but haven't come across one , you are still very helpful , but we would have a record amount of posts before I understand how it is supposed to work !

 

[Zero6391]

This is true but if u got some money to spare go buy a chiltons manual from the auto store i own 3 of those, one for home and 2 for the garage and they give a good step by step process on it and i prefer it to the vfaq cuz its in a book rather than me looking it up on my phone constantly with greasy hands

 

[Zero6391]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...pbuiqf3dXGiotJi6A&sig2=LQmasvssTnXnNmXH-9rv7A
Give this a try

 

[Zero6391]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...m5-gfebaDX6dINxEw&sig2=8e2HSMtY0iRqsSzAT4XcoA

 

[Zero6391]

I watched these the first time i did my belt and it helped a little

 

[ManiacMartel]

Your a gem bro . Thanks for the help !

 

[iHavok]

Here's the links to the service manual downloads if you don't want to buy them. It's always easier to have a physical copy, though.

1g
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-the-1g-service-manuals.344490/

2g
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-a-2g-service-manual.324090/