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Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

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This is what I use and it works fantastic! You can also substitute 3/4" heater hose for the stiff AN line. I feed from the OFH with pretty high oil pressure (80+, 25 at warm idle) and drain all of that out the -12 drain and Justin says my oiling is spot on for my Holset.
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When are you seeing full boost?
 
4700...36lbs. I have to change springs in my WG or it would be 40lbs :D
 
Yep, T3. The .55 was to restrictive for my setup and I was snapping turbo shafts and all kinds of fun stuff!!! :banghead:
 
Yep, T3. The .55 was to restrictive for my setup and I was snapping turbo shafts and all kinds of fun stuff!!! :banghead:
As soon as I get some time, I plan on taking some photos of various wheels/housing to illustrate issues that seem to happen when using small a/r turbine housings with oversized turbines and making a bit of an advanced turbine tech discussion thread. The DSM-flanged PTE turbos with the 62mm turbine seem to suffer the same issues but the smaller 56/57mm models never do- just like I've yet to see a HX35 in the .55 housing with a broken turbine shaft but HX40's happen occasionally and I think I have a pretty good explanation as to why.
 
No. It bolts right on Lorenzo. :thumb: (unless you have some custom setup).
 
I didn't mine and it drains perfect!
 
Wait, are you the guy blowing up hx40s in the .55bep housing LOL?
Yep, thats me. Moved to a T3 .70 and .82 housings and problems went away. :thumb:
I was getting the shafts so hot that they were probably glowing, then either "snap" or massive bend in it, ruining everything. That valute is just too small for all the hot air I was sending through it. Justin and I talked alot about it. Only on E85 with the BEP .055 and the HX40s, the 35's are fine, just to clarify.
 
Only on E85 with the BEP .055 and the HX40s, the 35's are fine, just to clarify.
It's overspeed from the turbine being so large that it doesn't allow any bypass...and the reason it occurs more with Ethanol users is they'll continue to lean the AFRs because they're not seeing knock without giving any thought to EGTs. So the turbine issue compiled with 2000*f EGTs is the failure spot.
 
It's overspeed from the turbine being so large that it doesn't allow any bypass...and the reason it occurs more with Ethanol users is they'll continue to lean the AFRs because they're not seeing knock without giving any thought to EGTs. So the turbine issue compiled with 2000*f EGTs is the failure spot.
So it's a tune issue not a housing issue...... Shaft speed really isn't that much controlled by housing size, especially on something wastegated. it more controlled by the airflow and boost pressure. If you are moving 60lbs/min and 35psi, shaft speed is really independant of housing size.

Now on the big stuff I work on anymore, where we run em all in, yeah housing size does change shaft speed some, but it also changes airflow and boost. AND, compressor design has a 10x effect on shaft speed than the turbine housing. I wish I could share all the neat stuff I've learned recently, what we see in the sport compact world as cutting edge is old lame duck stuff. Yeah, even those new expensive xonas, but it's a $7000 76mm turbo.

Anyway on egt, I can't beleive anyone would have 2000*f egt's on these. That's a big tune issue. Mine on the engine dyno at 33psi and 750hp with conservative timing was 1600*f at 8500. That was 12:1 AFR, 14* timing there on E85, and 40psi exhaust pressure. Leaning it out from 11 to 12AFR raised the egt 50*.


ANd to get back on topic. Run a -12 drain that's nice and smooth and be done with it. Get someone to weld a nice -12AN bung on the pan, get one of morrisonfabs drain dealys, and then put a spring in the hose if you need it to keep it open. Been running that setup on my vgt for years flawlessly, and it uses like 2x the oil a holset does.
 
There's like 1mm bypass at the inducer with a HX40 turbine stuffed in the .55 housing. Any and all exhaust that doesn't get wastegated must pass through the turbine opposed to continuing around the housing. In the process of cutting the housing to accept a 76mm turbine, they're also cutting the volute out completely at the nozzle...it's just gone. I believe it's the main reason the HX35's have no reliability issues in a Bullseye .55 housing while the HX40's seem to fail if used above 30psi where it would be really beneficial to have a turbo that size.

I've cut the inducer back 4mm on a couple of these to aim toward improving reliability and haven't had one of those come back...so I can't confirm or deny that it's a solid solution but it seems to be working so far.

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I'm pretty sure my HE351 with the HX40 turbine isn't far off that, and it's been run waaay harder than guys are running these things. That poor thing used to bury a 100psi exhaust pressure sensor. I'll have to look at it and see.
 
I'm pretty sure my HE351 with the HX40 turbine isn't far off that, and it's been run waaay harder than guys are running these things. That poor thing used to bury a 100psi exhaust pressure sensor. I'll have to look at it and see.
What was the best thing you did to lower exhaust pressure from 100psi to 40? And just to clarify, we're talking pre-turbine pressure right? 🤷‍♂️
 
There really aint any secrets. Really I don't think the HE351 setup made much power on 45psi than it did on 35. Did have a HUGE torque hit that was hard on the trans though. That's all these bolt on's are gonna do as well.

The vgt isn't something for everyone. It's really involved, and kind of a hassle. It does do what I want though. It's a 800hp+ capable turbo that makes 500ft*lbs from 5000-8000. And 400 from like 3500 well past the 9500 rev limit.

It does use a lot of oil and need a big drain. -12 has been good for me. So it's kinda related still!
 
Okay I don't feel so bad resurrecting this after 8 months instead of it being years but... With Spectra making affordable N/T 6 bolt pans, is that a better option to drill and weld with a bung compared to the morrison adapter at the pan? My current pan is old but minty fresh (It seems I hoard build parts and oil makes for great corrosion resistance) and after the move to Texas is done, all excuses are over and it's time for the Moneypit to start paying me back in smiles.
 
Okay I don't feel so bad resurrecting this after 8 months instead of it being years but... With Spectra making affordable N/T 6 bolt pans, is that a better option to drill and weld with a bung compared to the morrison adapter at the pan? My current pan is old but minty fresh (It seems I hoard build parts and oil makes for great corrosion resistance) and after the move to Texas is done, all excuses are over and it's time for the Moneypit to start paying me back in smiles.
I’ve never done this but have seen it done and often contemplated (actually gave away my original non turbo oil pan so someone could do this). To say one way is “better” than the other on how it works is irrelevant as a -12 opening is a -12 opening, however as finicky as it is to get any bolt on oil drain to seal you eliminate that potential welding a -12 bung to the oil pan.
 
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