Atuca
Supporting Member
- 1,140
- 292
- Jan 6, 2007
-
Central Valley,
California
Today is a great day in Atuca DSM History.... 
the G4CS is in its home, my DSM
Beginning this blog, I got myself a GM alternator from a junkyard car. It was the newest I could fine with the least amount of miles, there were ALOT of Saturns laying around
, I'd guess a couple dozen or so. 
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Once I got back home I started the long grinding process with my dremel. It took longer than 20-30 mins, but it did eventually get grinded down right. I don't have a 1g Alternator bracket, and I think I was supposed to have one, however I was told to use all 2g accessories for a 6 bolt swap. Maybe I read wrong, but whatever. I made my own longer adjusting bolt, and it works just fine. I got it tensioned and it should be fine
View attachment 1762
View attachment 1757
I ended up redoing my cam degreeing and put my cams at 3.5* advance on both the intake and exhaust. I did as the tech article said with the solid lifters this time and still my opening and closing degrees were off by different amounts fromt he HKS cam card. All I could do was measure piston to valve clearences and call it a day, I'll have to do degreeing a 3rd time later.
You can see the timing belt cover on there now behind my fluidamper balancer. I painted my green top 92 CAS black by removing the cover and sanding down and spray painting. It just looked funny having everthing in my engine bay black piping and silver and having a green top cas. Hopefully in the future I can score a real black top at a junkyard, but for now this works.
View attachment 1756
I got the TB installed with the new gaskets and the tb elbow, just so I could blue locktite and torque to spec.
View attachment 1755
I also had some issues with my thermostat housing. I didn't want to have to weld since I don't have access to a welder now, and really, I just want it to look clean as possible. What I settled with was a 90 non turbo 6 bolt thermostat housing. That housing doesn't have a nipple for oil cooler or turbo but still has spots for my sensors. Now since I am running and plan on swapping to a water cooled turbo, I used the FIAV coolant passage in the back of the housing for the turbo. HOWEVER, I am still running a FIAV for now until I can get a block off plate and decide if I want to keep the IAC if with DSMlink I can do without it. So the plug in the back of all 6 bolt housing was removed and I inserted a nipple in there, that way when I remove the coolant from the TB, I just reinsert the plug and bam! easy! done! I need to think more on it, and now is not the time to stop and think anymore, gotta get done by Friday!!
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I don't want to talk about it too much, but it took me litterally 3 days to get out exhaust manifold studs stuck in my head. I don't even know how you break those bolts, I really don't, but the idiot who did, GOOD FU(KING JOB!!!
I had to drill through the harden metal that are those studs and "easy out" them. (yea not easy).. I can document 12 hours working on those bolts, I had 3 to get out, you do the math >.<
In between fighting with that though I was working on putting the water pipe on, power steering bracket, and ect stuff like that to keep my sanity between drilling those stupid things. FFS, anyways, new studs installed and the FP Exhaust manifold set up. I reused a RRE 4 layer copper gasket, sprayed with Copper Spray.
View attachment 1761
I don't have pictures, but mocking up my water lines and oil lines has been a little harder than I expected, to put it gently. I am running an old ebay 16g for break in period. It doesn't have much shaft play, so should be good to rock and roll for the purposes I have for it, but I feel like getting the water lines and oil lines for it shouldn't be so difficult. The turbo came off a 2g, so the lines are all prebent for it, and when I went to bend them for a 1g motor, the lines just kinked on me
I'll have it figured out for the first start up, but I'll be doing a much cleaner prettier job for the 3052.
Oh new cherry picker
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I got the motor up on the engine hoist and started fitting the flywheel setup on. I realized that I had an auto bushing. OH SHEEEET!!! Search DSMtuners and just look at all the threads where people b!tched about that little bastard from hell. People would rather have teeth pulled without anestesia than have to work on this bushing. However, after pulling on it with plyers for 15 mins or so, I tried the tatic I read before. Because I didn't understand how it worked didn't try it originally, but let me just share with you once again how it works:
Shove wet toilet paper into the hole, and using a socket with attached extension, start banging it it. Great!
View attachment 1764
The toilet paper gets smashed in and than nothing happens, amazing. It either gets stuck in the hole, or in your socket. Thats is ok, just shove more toilet paper into the hole and start pounding again. You'll hear the difference between hitting toilet paper in and hitting the crank with your socket. When you hear metal on metal, pull your socket out and add more toilet paper. And just like black ninja magic:
View attachment 1765
The bushing pops out and the toilet paper you been bashing in there is now hard as a rock and replaced your bushing. Lucky you scraping out toilet paper is easier than scraping out that bushing.
View attachment 1766
With that out of the way, I bolted up my new 6 bolt ACT streetlite flywheel. I reused my old ACT 2900 Pressure plate and street disc. Its all banged up on the surface from the old ACT tob destruction, but the inside disc surfaces is fine.
View attachment 1767
Moments before setting up the motor mounts...
View attachment 1768
and as the sun went down....
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Now lets see if I can meet my Friday dealine to get the car rewired and on the road. I have a feeling I won't be updating until the car is started or I am stuck paying to have it towed 100+ miles to its new home.
Either way, until next time!
the G4CS is in its home, my DSM
Beginning this blog, I got myself a GM alternator from a junkyard car. It was the newest I could fine with the least amount of miles, there were ALOT of Saturns laying around
, I'd guess a couple dozen or so. View attachment 1750
View attachment 1751
View attachment 1752
View attachment 1753
View attachment 1754
Once I got back home I started the long grinding process with my dremel. It took longer than 20-30 mins, but it did eventually get grinded down right. I don't have a 1g Alternator bracket, and I think I was supposed to have one, however I was told to use all 2g accessories for a 6 bolt swap. Maybe I read wrong, but whatever. I made my own longer adjusting bolt, and it works just fine. I got it tensioned and it should be fine
View attachment 1762
View attachment 1757
I ended up redoing my cam degreeing and put my cams at 3.5* advance on both the intake and exhaust. I did as the tech article said with the solid lifters this time and still my opening and closing degrees were off by different amounts fromt he HKS cam card. All I could do was measure piston to valve clearences and call it a day, I'll have to do degreeing a 3rd time later.
You can see the timing belt cover on there now behind my fluidamper balancer. I painted my green top 92 CAS black by removing the cover and sanding down and spray painting. It just looked funny having everthing in my engine bay black piping and silver and having a green top cas. Hopefully in the future I can score a real black top at a junkyard, but for now this works.
View attachment 1756
I got the TB installed with the new gaskets and the tb elbow, just so I could blue locktite and torque to spec.
View attachment 1755
I also had some issues with my thermostat housing. I didn't want to have to weld since I don't have access to a welder now, and really, I just want it to look clean as possible. What I settled with was a 90 non turbo 6 bolt thermostat housing. That housing doesn't have a nipple for oil cooler or turbo but still has spots for my sensors. Now since I am running and plan on swapping to a water cooled turbo, I used the FIAV coolant passage in the back of the housing for the turbo. HOWEVER, I am still running a FIAV for now until I can get a block off plate and decide if I want to keep the IAC if with DSMlink I can do without it. So the plug in the back of all 6 bolt housing was removed and I inserted a nipple in there, that way when I remove the coolant from the TB, I just reinsert the plug and bam! easy! done! I need to think more on it, and now is not the time to stop and think anymore, gotta get done by Friday!!
View attachment 1758
View attachment 1759
I don't want to talk about it too much, but it took me litterally 3 days to get out exhaust manifold studs stuck in my head. I don't even know how you break those bolts, I really don't, but the idiot who did, GOOD FU(KING JOB!!!
I had to drill through the harden metal that are those studs and "easy out" them. (yea not easy).. I can document 12 hours working on those bolts, I had 3 to get out, you do the math >.<In between fighting with that though I was working on putting the water pipe on, power steering bracket, and ect stuff like that to keep my sanity between drilling those stupid things. FFS, anyways, new studs installed and the FP Exhaust manifold set up. I reused a RRE 4 layer copper gasket, sprayed with Copper Spray.
View attachment 1761
I don't have pictures, but mocking up my water lines and oil lines has been a little harder than I expected, to put it gently. I am running an old ebay 16g for break in period. It doesn't have much shaft play, so should be good to rock and roll for the purposes I have for it, but I feel like getting the water lines and oil lines for it shouldn't be so difficult. The turbo came off a 2g, so the lines are all prebent for it, and when I went to bend them for a 1g motor, the lines just kinked on me
I'll have it figured out for the first start up, but I'll be doing a much cleaner prettier job for the 3052.Oh new cherry picker
View attachment 1760
View attachment 1763
I got the motor up on the engine hoist and started fitting the flywheel setup on. I realized that I had an auto bushing. OH SHEEEET!!! Search DSMtuners and just look at all the threads where people b!tched about that little bastard from hell. People would rather have teeth pulled without anestesia than have to work on this bushing.
However, after pulling on it with plyers for 15 mins or so, I tried the tatic I read before. Because I didn't understand how it worked didn't try it originally, but let me just share with you once again how it works:Shove wet toilet paper into the hole, and using a socket with attached extension, start banging it it. Great!
View attachment 1764
The toilet paper gets smashed in and than nothing happens, amazing. It either gets stuck in the hole, or in your socket. Thats is ok, just shove more toilet paper into the hole and start pounding again. You'll hear the difference between hitting toilet paper in and hitting the crank with your socket. When you hear metal on metal, pull your socket out and add more toilet paper. And just like black ninja magic:
View attachment 1765
The bushing pops out and the toilet paper you been bashing in there is now hard as a rock and replaced your bushing. Lucky you scraping out toilet paper is easier than scraping out that bushing.
View attachment 1766
With that out of the way, I bolted up my new 6 bolt ACT streetlite flywheel. I reused my old ACT 2900 Pressure plate and street disc. Its all banged up on the surface from the old ACT tob destruction, but the inside disc surfaces is fine.
View attachment 1767
Moments before setting up the motor mounts...
View attachment 1768
and as the sun went down....
View attachment 1769
View attachment 1770
Now lets see if I can meet my Friday dealine to get the car rewired and on the road. I have a feeling I won't be updating until the car is started or I am stuck paying to have it towed 100+ miles to its new home.
Either way, until next time!
