The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G Front left cv axle/half shaft

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jokerzlife

10+ Year Contributor
42
1
May 5, 2009
cut bank, Montana
hey I’m new here. I just picked up a 1997 eagle talon tsi awd. Was wondering if the front left cv shaft and the intermediate shaft where interchangable from manual and auto transmissions?
 
The half shafts are identical between manual and auto (and also 1g/2g) AWD but the intermediate shafts are two different lengths. The difference is 1/2". I think the automatic is the one that's longer but I am not sure. The splines are all the same so some have had luck putting the shorter one in the transmission that requires the longer one but you can't go the other way around.

Another thing to note is that the intermediate shafts are different between 2ga (95-96) and 2gb (97-99) because of a redesign of the AC compressor bracket. I picked up a 2gb intermediate shaft and 1g AWD auto left front half shaft from PerformancePartout for my 98 GSX and installed them less than a month ago. Other partout vendors may have them as well. What is your reason for asking?
 
Last edited:
Or do you guys think I should just remove the intermediate shaft and try to grind out the c clip and replace. Kinda been noticing that these parts are pretty scarce. Can some one post a pic of where the c clip is supposed to go.
 
I put a 95 intermediate shaft onto my 97 engine back in the day. I recall that it used a bunch of washers as spacers but I can't remember if I kept the AC bracket on the engine or not. The car that the engine went into didn't have AC anymore.

I have not personally messed with the C clips before but they're just spring-loaded metal. Replacing them shouldn't involve any grinding of any kind. If there is no existing one then installing one is just a matter of sliding a new one over the end of the shaft and snapping it into place.

That part link that you sent is just the shaft, not the bearings or bracket. The bracket is what is different between the years so the shaft would work for you, but I think those bearings are press fit and you should definitely replace them if you're messing with them anyway. Do you have a press to replace them?
 
The part diagram shows the shaft and the carrier assembly separate, so no. You can buy both pieces and assemble them yourself. Or you could buy a used one and either replace the bearings or not. I did not replace the bearings in my used one because I was in a hurry and it's not that difficult to deal with that later.The suspension comes off easy enough.

JNZTuning has been my go-to for the harder-to-find parts, but their website has been down for construction for a while. You could call them and see what they have to offer if you really want a new assembly, but it sounds to me like you just need to source a new C clip.
 
if you're deleting the AC don't forget to get a spacer. Found that out the hard way :)
Did you break the boss on the block for the axle support? I have this issue right now and my remedy was to weld a large stud to the block on the remaining good boss. I was wondering if you came up with a better solution? I don't really have welding skills other wise I would have liked to fill in the broken area and re tap. but the tight space also makes it difficult to do anything accurately.
 
As in, the half shaft is just floating in the engine bay? Even with the center LSD you won't find yourself going anywhere with one half shaft disconnected. Even if you had a welded center diff, the front is still open.

Even if you were just rolling downhill to the shop, the half shaft would spin and rub against everything that it can come into contact with. I'd expect a torn CV boot. Most of the rest of the damage would be cosmetic.

Unless I'm misunderstanding you, it would be a bad idea if it were possible, but it's not even possible without a locked center AND front diff.
 
It does move without the front half shaft dunno why it can, but I know what you meen by free wheeling. Just want to know If doing maybe 15 mph to get to the garage would hurt anything in the front end? Not extremely worried about the cv shaft getting messed up. It’s 4 miles and it’s the front left cv shaft
 
the front diff is open, so he's saying when you apply engine torque it will transfer all of the torque to the wheel with the least traction. as far as your front diff is concerned that would be the one without the axle.
I would think you'd lose fluid also if you pulled the shaft out of the transmission and drove around.
 
If I pull the intermediate shaft it would leak was talk about the cv shaft. I was planning on just driving it to the shop so I can fix it. I have a new problem now posting new post thanks for the help. I understand the open front diff part just doesn’t explain why I can do a rwd burnout in the car without the front left cv shaft not hoocked up.
 
Ok got my other problem fixed back to the cv problem. I looked at the intermediate shaft meaning I took it out and I didn’t find a c clip.. any info?
 

Attachments

  • 4226674C-9FEA-4C9D-AE81-865EAE531D75.jpeg
    4226674C-9FEA-4C9D-AE81-865EAE531D75.jpeg
    362.6 KB · Views: 243
  • 6F31ED55-3336-44FA-8E6C-C46D38B48B53.jpeg
    6F31ED55-3336-44FA-8E6C-C46D38B48B53.jpeg
    310.4 KB · Views: 191
  • 43E72CBB-CF21-401E-B863-E98FFD460007.jpeg
    43E72CBB-CF21-401E-B863-E98FFD460007.jpeg
    383 KB · Views: 221
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top