1G Frame Off Restoration 1Gs, Who's Done Them, Advise, Tips Appreciated

[Car Cannibal]

I'm gonna do it, I've been in the 1g game since 2001 and I'm gonna keep the car moving forwards and possibly keep as an investment considering what's going to be out there in say 30 years.

I'm doing a new engine combo, OHM harness and Haltech. I plan on having the engine bay done while it's out or some configuration that works best.

I'm having a shop do this frame off and body work, blast the frame, powder coat and here's some extra thoughts...

Convert to coilovers while it's all apart
Possibly swap out the rear subframe
Get new tubed front control arms
Powder coat all rear and front control arms to match the blueish frame powder coat.

Any regrets, pitfalls, black holes etc I need to watch it for?

Thanks

 

[babyviper]

1st tip, 1G's are unibody. So you can't take the body off of the frame.

 

[97egl]

Any regrets, pitfalls, black holes etc I need to watch it for?

Thanks

When you have a car blasted if there is ANY signs of rust coming through the paint normally you will end up with a pretty large area that looks like swiss cheese once they are done blasting. So if you've got a few spots on the car that just look slightly rusted be prepared to replace sheet metal. Because of how thin the sheetmetal is on our cars you are sometimes better off just replacing an entire body panel instead of trying to patch the rust. It take time, lots of skill, good equipment, and more time to patch thin sheet metal without warping it.

Also if you haven't owned the car for long a previous owner may have done a poor bondo patch job on the car and you'll see that and have to deal with it once its blasted.

 

[Blindmouse]

When you have a car blasted if there is ANY signs of rust coming through the paint normally you will end up with a pretty large area that looks like swiss cheese once they are done blasting. So if you've got a few spots on the car that just look slightly rusted be prepared to replace sheet metal. Because of how thin the sheetmetal is on our cars you are sometimes better off just replacing an entire body panel instead of trying to patch the rust. It take time, lots of skill, good equipment, and more time to patch thin sheet metal without warping it.

Also if you haven't owned the car for long a previous owner may have done a poor bondo patch job on the car and you'll see that and have to deal with it once its blasted.

I HATE the sandblasting on car bodys.. you never can take out the sand fully from the body's chambers.. remained sand got and keeps the moisture..
I think the best primer is the OE paint...

The steel panels not too thin.. 0.7-0.8mm.. about the suspension connection points got some 1.25-1.5mm panels..
Absolutely weldable

For example: myself made rear inner sill, near the rear suspension connection..

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[Car Cannibal]

Well I'll be, unibody, I guess that saves some trational restoration aspects. Hahaha