Fp zero vs hx40

[bastarddsm]

Lol, where did the op say that he blew his up, I can't find it. I only mentioned guys that made good power on the .55 for example to show that the op's goal of 400-450 on pump isn't some lofty unattainable goal - it's do able, been done many many times, and if they are blowing them up at that level it might be time to reevaluate the setup. Like I said maxed out it's a 7-800hp turbo, running it at 400-450 is hardly working it. And I also mentioned it to reaffirm that it's not some "crappy" combo that can't perform, because they clearly do, it's clearly not the right combo for max power, but neither is anything bolt on. The bolt on 40 is a compromise between spool and power - there might be better ones, but to say that it is "crappy", especially when you have not used one is flat out ignorant. For the record, I've not said any of them were crappy/bad/junk/ect. And yeah I still think a red will be a downgrade. It's a smaller turbo, with a smaller hot side, and a smaller shaft. It's going to be run closer to the max to make the same power, and the upgrade future is basically 0. Stay with the hx, decide you want better power, do an open t3, want better power and good spool, do a divided t4 setup. Want even power power, swap the turbo, since you already have a good hot parts kit. Same thing goes for the zero. Spend $1500 bolt it on, that's it. Decide you want more, sell it for half, maybe, buy a whole new setup - turbo and hot parts..

But just to clairify something, a bolt on hx35 will work, but a bolt on 40 is a crappy combo?

I think you are also putting words in my mouth, I never said the fp stuff won't run and wont last. They really do run good, but try and crank up a tiny little red to what a real hx40 setup would do, and see how long they last. There are no shortage of guys complaining about reds/greens/blacks coming apart. Jeez there for a while all the classifieds were full of blown reds greens blacks 68hta's ect. If they were soo good there wouldn't be so many little turbo shops rebuilding them. It's a thing that happens, big wheels, little shaft, small housing, max power it's a time bomb. Put a hx40 wheel in a 35 in a .55, try and make all the power and yeah it's gonna come apart too eventually.

blah blah blah

Standing by for you to take things out of context and try and spout more garbage you don't know. Meanwhile I have the fastest HE351, HY35, and like 3rd or 4th fastest HX40 (even though mines smaller) on a DSM. How many 60mm turbo dsm's are faster than mine? About the only ones are pretty well strict race car's So how is my opinion not valid and yours is? I guess if I wanted to be on team slow I could take advice from you.

It wasn't operator error that broke MY Holset shaft Kurt, it was just to much heat in one little hole.

Idk. I suspect the tune was mostly to blame, lotta EGT's or something. Maybe you had 2 bad ones. We get usually these things used, and have no idea what's been done with them. I had a big power duramax pull truck here that went to a new $6500 harts turbo. 2 passes turbine came apart. I have a basically identical truck here too that ran that turbo and has a couple seasons on it. They warrantied it, and it's been good since. Some times it sucks to suck I guess.

The HE has a tiny little volute, and I did terrible things to it. Even now the last time I ran it, it had a chinese HX40 turbine in it, and it stayed together - didn't pick up any power though (tells me th is restrictive like a bep bolt on) For those that don't know I was using it on a turbonetics manifold, and it takes a lot of careful clearancing to make it fit. At one particular time I was impatient and screwed up, forced it together, and it make the chra not sit in the TH right. Turbine wheel was rubbing the housing, I ran it like that for a long time without knowing, still stayed together.

What were you trying to do to it? Was this still your 10.5:1 motor? Pump gas and trying to run big boost? .

 

[bastarddsm]

That was the most interesting thing to me about this thread from the start. OP is looking for 400 on pump - 475 on E85 but talking about turbos capable of 600-700 airflow wise. Puts the whole discussion in contradiction

In my opinion to make 400-475 power reliably on pump you need to be looking at turbo's in that range. Historically, a E3 16g is a 350hp street car turbo on pumpgas, but can make 450 or so on good setup with good fuel. A OG green or a bolt on 50 trim was a 400hp pump gas street car turbo, but guys make 550 or so on them with good fuel and a maxed out setup. Extrapolate that out, and looking for 475 on pump gas trying to keep it spooling decent, you are looking at needing a 600+ capable turbo. Pump gas really puts a damper on the fun. Back in the day, guys were running a full 42r setup to make 600 on pump. I'm sure now a decent 67mm will do it, but hopefully you get the idea

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Nah, I run E85. Once I switched to a T3 flange setup, no more problems. I wouldn't recommend running a 40 in a BEP .55 housing on E. That was the summary. The 35's seem just fine for whatever reason but the 40's dont like that little hole. @JusMX141 and I talked about what was going on and I changed to the (in my opinion) better flange T3. Never had a issue after that. Sometimes parts just don't play well together.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Lol, where did the op say that he blew his up, I can't find it.

Alright, this will be my last reply White Shit Speed. The OP posted it like 1 or two posts above your reply but you're too busy looking in the mirror to read the thread.

Like I said maxed out it's a 7-800hp turbo, running it at 400-450 is hardly working it.

White shit, you're recommending an 800hp turbo for a guy who wants 400hp on 91 oct.

but to say that it is "crappy", especially when you have not used one is flat out ignorant

White shit, by crappy I meant that they have a history of blowing up in the exact same way. I never said they wouldn't make power. In fairness to you, I was not clear about what I meant by crappy and that could have mislead people. In fairness to me, you're a clown who jumps down everyone's throat because you think everyone is moron but you.

But just to clairify something, a bolt on hx35 will work, but a bolt on 40 is a crappy combo?

White shit, the hx35s don't appear to have the same issue as the hx40s in the bep bolt-on housing.

eez there for a while all the classifieds were full of blown reds greens blacks 68hta's ect. If they were soo good there wouldn't be so many little turbo shops rebuilding them.

White shit, there are two people on this thread alone who have blown up hx40s in the BEP housings.

Standing by for you to take things out of context and try and spout more garbage you don't know. Meanwhile I have the fastest HE351, HY35, and like 3rd or 4th fastest HX40 (even though mines smaller) on a DSM. How many 60mm turbo dsm's are faster than mine? About the only ones are pretty well strict race car's So how is my opinion not valid and yours is? I guess if I wanted to be on team slow I could take advice from you.

White shit, you must have been the King of Applebee's the night you ran that 9.8. How many 2 for 1 entrees did you get on the house after that sick pass? Seriously did they fly J-Shep in to welcome you to club? 9.8 is quite an accomplishment after "1000's of passes".

 

[red_devil]

Woah this thread ran away somewhere. Okay firstly, I said my hx let go. It did not blow up so sorry for the wording. It began smoking the day after the track. Justin couldn't identify the failure but both wheels were damaged with no oil contamination. I assumed it was heat related due to being in South Florida and having my manifold and housing wrapped in blankets.

In Richmond VA there are only 2 e85 stations and both seem to be average quality. So I'm stuck with crappy fuel regardless where I get it. This is why I needed to look into 600hp capable turbos just so it would make power. I stuck with bolt on because it's cheap and durable*. I went with the 40 because it seemed to perform better in the .55 housing compared to the 35, and still had the option to upgrade later if I wanted.

Maybe I need to focus on the rest of the car. I'm running a 12 year old ssautochrome fmic and my injectors may need to be cleaned and tested. Get a proper shop tune and see where I'm at and how the turbo deals with it all.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Woah this thread ran away somewhere. Okay firstly, I said my hx let go. It did not blow up so sorry for the wording. It began smoking the day after the track. Justin couldn't identify the failure but both wheels were damaged with no oil contamination. I assumed it was heat related due to being in South Florida and having my manifold and housing wrapped in blankets.

In Richmond VA there are only 2 e85 stations and both seem to be average quality. So I'm stuck with crappy fuel regardless where I get it. This is why I needed to look into 600hp capable turbos just so it would make power. I stuck with bolt on because it's cheap and durable*. I went with the 40 because it seemed to perform better in the .55 housing compared to the 35, and still had the option to upgrade later if I wanted.

Maybe I need to focus on the rest of the car. I'm running a 12 year old ssautochrome fmic and my injectors may need to be cleaned and tested. Get a proper shop tune and see where I'm at and how the turbo deals with it all.

Hx40 smoking, you have which drain? And did you use silicone anywhere on it? (Hope not) you could always just swap housings (and manifolds) on it and keep it running. Heat probably not an issue even with blanketing. Definitely gotta be something else. Ambient temps have absolutely nothing to do woth turbo failures, boost leaks and crappy FMIC’s, bad rebuilds, dinky drains, high back pressure and excessive shaft (and tip) speeds yes. That video of robert at FP earlier in this thread is very informational and should be watched.

bottom line, if you like your hx40 fix it and run it, if you want something more responsive, get a smaller turbo rated for your goals or just above your goals... can’t really go wrong either way. Just depends on if you want to spend more or less money changing setups.
If it was me, the FP zero turbo was made and engineered to be a bolt on turbo capable of high flow, is ballbearing, and much lighter. the hx40 was not intended to be a bolt on, or even a gas turbo, but they do work well, i have ran one myself for a couple years at 40psi. But If you only lookin for 400hp they both will work but are both overkill, unless you looking for room to grow with time and supporting mods.

This is a decision really only you (op) can make with your own budget in mind. There will always be budget builders trying to make work with what they have and can get at the lowest price possible, and there are people that will work hard and spend half or all of their paycheck on something to do it how they think is right and best fits their goals, and there are the unlimited budget cars that have shops build them for them. Everyone has an opinion and think their way is THE WAY cause thats the path they took. well there are many ways to build a car, and choose a turbo, you just have to decide which path you will take, and make the smartest choices along the way with all the information at your finger tips that beat suits what YOU want.

Nothing wrong with hearing all sides... but The pissing matches in here are not helpful to anyone..

As for your thread and the thread title....FP DSM Zero is a good turbo, and gets my vote, won’t be this cheap ever again, and the evo versions are a thousand dollars more expensive then the current sale price of the DSM zero, I would expect them to be priced similarly after the sale ends

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@red_devil , the only time I had issues was when I was on E85. On gas, it obviously didn't make as much power but it was also talked about between Justin and I and my problems started when I went over to E not on Gas. After going to E85 and seeing the performance difference, I just decided to get a bigger hot side (T3) and all the issues went away as far as hurting the turbo. If a bolt on turbo is the way you want to go, the Zero looks like a nice unit and as @Archer Fabrications said, they probably won't stay at a sale price for long. Good luck on all of your decisions!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yeah i have a hx40 in a bep, but yet to go t3 yet, the zero is a good price now. I guess ive wanted a holset for a long time, it something i can grow with down the road i have all supporting mods, fuel, and ed 85. A built engine with cams, the last big thing would be a t3 setup, things take time and planning.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Nothing wrong with hearing all sides... but The pissing matches in here are not helpful to anyone..

You people are no fun

 

[Dreams Realized]

You people are no fun

Right?!? I enjoyed watching this piss match unfold. I have no drama in my life in the middle of the ocean in the middle of nowhere, Alaska. Even if we did have a pissing match out here the wind would blow it back into our bodies.

Then we would have a tie and wet legs.

Suppose the same could be said about this one.


Thanks!

 

[95REGF150]

Right?!? I enjoyed watching this piss match unfold. I have no drama in my life in the middle of the ocean in the middle of nowhere, Alaska. Even if we did have a pissing match out here the wind would blow it back into our bodies.

Then we would have a tie and wet legs.

Suppose the same could be said about this one.


Thanks!

I second that. It's always funny when Kurt gets into it with someone because you still get good information but its presented in a way that makes it fun to read.

I particularly enjoyed that this one was with Vegas our own King of sarcasm. Won't lie when he began every sentence with White Shit had me busting up.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I do it for the children. If anyone else gets to benefit then that's great!

 

[Ludachris]

You people are no fun

"Whattaya mean YOU PEOPLE"? (in my best Robert Downey Jr 'Tropic Thunder' voice)