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2G Forced Four 150 Shift Box Program

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
So I just received the new Smart 150 box to replace my outdated box, but I see nothing on the programming side of what things should be set to and some of the information here is beyond me at the moment. I have a Precision #6 converter, no TCU, B&M shifter for manual shifting, the Smart 150 box for at the track, and plan on stalling up in 2nd gear. I'm not sure what the "lockup" feature is. And not sure if the shift maps apply to me. Posting a screen shot of every screen within the program (and whether I need help or not on each screen) if anyone cares to look at it or make suggestions. Plan on shifting around 9-9500 rpm's. Maybe this post will help others as well. Thanks!

I'm good on this screen but want to at least show every screen for those needing it. I'm not sure what the datalogging feature does yet though.
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Only thing I'm unsure of here is the accelerometer information or what that does.
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Wondering what the Enable Adaptive Shift Control is. Also unsure of what the "Ignore Limp Mode" would be good for.
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If I'm testing the solenoids, am I just checking for voltage at the plug or something? Not sure what I would be looking for here. As far as the Digital Functions, I'm assuming those just light up when enabled?
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Think I'm good here.
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Nothing really needed here other than just wondering how to know how much Debounce to use. Gonna start at 7000 rpms to test it out for the shifting.
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Not sure what any of this does. Not sure what the Lockup thing is talking about. For use with stock converters or something? Help with aftermarket converters? Something for use with stalling up? I have no idea.
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Think I'm good on this page.
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Think I'm good on this page as well.
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I "think" I'm good here.
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I think I'm good on the Stall Up Mode. Just unsure of what the Windowed #1 and #2 output sections do. Are those to activate the Shift Map E and S, if I even need those???
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If I need these next two pages, I have no idea on where the numbers should be.
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That's it. Appreciate any help and hopefully this helps others.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
You know I am always here to TRY and help. I have my own shift maps, made by us and can and should be tweaked up just a bit if for use on the track, which is what I used it for. Both hands on the wheel, let it do its thing.
Debouce, leave at 150. It is a "timer" of sort.
No lockup on a 1g car, disable it or don't use it.
Test the shift points so set them LOW and go out and romp it to see if there is a delay of anykind. If so, adjust the rpms accordingly. Shawn has said in another thread that we shouldn't use both the auto map and the RPM shift at the same time. It could incur a double or delayed shift. I can confirm that.
I need to look at the rest when I am not on my phone so I can see the screen shots.
Hope that helps a little.
Marty
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
This is a 2g car so not sure if I need anything for the Lockup feature on that. I think I remember Shawn saying that was something to do with stock converters???

As for the maps, I'm not sure which one is the auto and which one is for the rpms. Why would I need "maps" anyway if I'm just trying to shift at 9k rpm or whatever? Something to do with easy driving dependent on throttle position versus wot driving or something? Not sure if the settings I have now are good or not but hope to get this going this weekend.....depending on exhaust pipe modifications I need to complete. Thanks for the tips though.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Its late. I'll try to take a better look tomorrow so you can go do your thing. I'd venture to say, turn OFF the auto ahift function at the track and go just with the rpm shift but test FIRST. Make SURE it shifts on time. Then go bust off your time! :thumb:
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
Yeah, reason I was gonna shift at 7k to start with. Lol.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
For sure test at WOT at a lower rpm and move up so you get the feeling for the time it takes to shift. :thumb:
If your car rips like mine, set the gears at different points. 1st gear EARLY, 2nd early, 3rd semi-early for testing.
 

CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,293
944
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Lockup control is for stock torque converters. None of the aftermarket restalls have them, at least not to my knowledge. Even the precision ones. And the maps are so you’re setting parameters for when it shifts, how hard, etc. So that on the street while cruising it doesn’t hold til 9k, but it also won’t shift at 4500 going full send. Pretty neat stuff. Easier to show and explain in person because I suck with words on a screen.

Adaptive shift is you make two maps essentially. One soft/eco mode for cruising, sport mode for racing/track. Adaptive shift will use TPS % to switch between these two maps automatically.

The bottom two screen shots are your maps for shifting. The windows on the right tell you what line does what, and when. So you can control the aspects of when and how the shifts or downshifts will occur. Think of them like two switchable AFR or timing tables. The boxes tell you where on the graph you are. Bottom numbers are MPH, side numbers are TPS%. Dotted line and solid line are upshift and downshift(forget which is which). The E = eco, S = Sport.


Solenoids are measured by their resistance. That’s all the one tab does/is telling you their resistance. The windowed outputs are escaping me right now, so someone else will have to chime in. I think it’s outputs to control something like nitrous/etc but I am probably wrong on this, don’t @ me. :p and finally the one page with digital outputs will just light up when ever you activate whatever output is there. Like if you hit the up shift button the little upshift light will light up. Etc.

I think I covered most of your questions but might’ve missed some. Someone call me right the eff out if I’m wrong on anything. I don’t mind. :p

Edit: forgot one thing, to disable the “maps” shift feature you’d click enable RPM UP-SHIFTER(you already have that checked)

To enable the “maps” shift feature check the “enable TCU shifter” box on the e and s tables.
 
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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
One thing I'm unsure of it what this is saying about "pulling low to ground".

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I'm just, "WTF are you talking about?" Lol. I do have my vacuum pump installed and tapped into the wire for the brake pedal and the vacuum pump works as it should when the brakes are applied. So I just tapped into that same wire at the brake switch wire. Am I needing to do something with the program because I don't understand what he's saying here.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Is the wire for the brake switch "12v+"?
It appears so which is why Shawn says to pull it to ground with a relay. The relay being activated by the 12v+ from the brake switch and the relay switching that circuit to ground if I understand him correctly.
Basically, it just needs to see a ground to activate it. I think the brake light circuit is hot.
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
I believe it is. But I'm not understanding the electrical jargon. One of the many things about electrical crap I hate. That being said though, I have no idea if I need to invert anything in the program or leave as is to keep from screwing something up.
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
I messaged Shawn just to be safe on this one because I'm not really in the mood to burn the car down. Apparently a relay isn't needed with this version though. But here was his reply to me regarding that.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Very NICE :thumb:
Thanks for adding the information! We all need it.
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
So adding to this programming post, I can't seem to get the stall up feature to work where it switches to 2nd gear if need be. No idea what I'm doing wrong on it. Assuming the gear selector on the box would show the 2nd gear which it's not doing. I also can't seem to find a log viewer as indicated here. I'm trying to search for the Haltech and Megasquirt logger and can't seem to find either, and not sure what a good CSV log viewer would be good. Not sure what y'all are using.

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I'm wondering if it's not seeing my throttle position change. I tried to calibrate that in the program by hitting the "Set 0%" while off the throttle, and then "Set 100%" with the throttle to the floor. I don't know how to change it back or whatever I screwed up there. No idea.
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I'm setting the minimum rpm's to 0 because I'm trying this while the car is off. The "Stall Up Mode Active" light never lights up. Any ideas?
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Only thing that's different on this page is that I have the Invert DI3 box checked under the Invert DI's section.
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CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,293
944
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
You don’t have a stall up input switch. Uncheck that box and just keep brake switch/2nd gear boxes checked and try again.


Edit: for the haltech data logger, it’s built in to their software now. Download the elite series software/ESP and it should be in there. https://www.haltech.com/downloads/
 
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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
I'm apparently an idiot. I had the rpm wire hooked up, but not the tps switch wire. So doing that now and hopefully that fixes the issue. But I'll check out the link you sent. Thanks!
 

CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,293
944
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
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:) Good stuff, man.


God technology has come so far for these things. This kinda tech 15+ years ago would’ve gotten you laughed at for even mentioning it.

Randomly those two options (brake or input switch) are awesome. You can disable the brake switch option and enable the input switch option and have a button on your steering wheel that would mimic a “trans brake” button. So you wouldn’t have to pull the ebrake. Nifty.
 

v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,773
245
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
I no longer have an ebrake though so that option is out. Lol.

I eventually want to do a brake upgrade and I know the rear set requires the ebrake being deleted, so I went ahead and got ahead of the game for that part. Weight reduction anyway.
 

CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,293
944
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Ah, gotcha. You honestly don’t need it though.

Could always put a button on the steering wheel and use it as the “input signal” button. When holding the button launch mode would be activated, for those who for some reason wouldn’t want to do the brake pedal option(no idea who or why would want that but hey. It’s an option.)
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I like buttons on the steering wheel ROFL
 

1fastcolt

10+ Year Contributor
74
13
Jun 27, 2011
Tucson, Arizona
I know this thread is about 8 months old but it is helping me alot.. I do have 1 question.. do I need to hook up the blue wire to sol D for the softshift option to work? or is it only the 2 wires going into the trans that is needed?.. this is a 95 awd trans.no tcu.. just got my box installed so trying to get it all setup before first test drive. thanks much. Steve
 

enriquez2000

Proven Member
1,798
270
Oct 5, 2014
fort collins, Colorado
I know this thread is about 8 months old but it is helping me alot.. I do have 1 question.. do I need to hook up the blue wire to sol D for the softshift option to work? or is it only the 2 wires going into the trans that is needed?.. this is a 95 awd trans.no tcu.. just got my box installed so trying to get it all setup before first test drive. thanks much. Steve
You will want that hooked up as you mentioned. I Also highly recommend hooking up the brake switch for its features while you are doing every thing!

Let us know what else you need
 

1fastcolt

10+ Year Contributor
74
13
Jun 27, 2011
Tucson, Arizona
brake wire was already hooked up.. just wasnt sure about the blue.. never seen it mentioned in most posts I read thru. thanks much.
 
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