The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

ECMlink First time tuning on my own

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TunedUp

10+ Year Contributor
204
12
Dec 28, 2011
Newport News, Virginia
Hopefully I did this correctly. Here is my first log and I have no idea what I am doing besides watching ecmlink videos. Also watched all of Scott Laird's videos on youtube. Still not really getting any of this from watching videos but I do learn well if I have something to read over and over again until it clicks in my head. Also, helps the way some of you really break stuff down. Thank you in advance! Edit: Forgot to mention I did rev it a few times as you can see in the log just thought people might think the idle was crazy or something so figured I might mention it.

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?

Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? Tested at 30psi with a small leak at the biss screw which I have to wait until the first to buy a new o-ring for it. I am running open DP if that matters, but the O2 id on the downpipe

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes, All timing marks are dead on.

3). Verified base timing?
5* BTDC
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock Coil
Wire brand and Age: NGK's 1 week old
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap:BPR7ES .28

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: 155
Cylinder 2:155
Cylinder 3:155
Cylinder 4:155

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Not sure on this, but my idle is pretty steady
Throttle Cable: No Slack
TPS: Adjusted the way ECMLink wiki says to
BISS: Adjusted it per vfaq then it started leaking a small amount of air during BLT so will have to do this again once i buy a new o-ring

7). Compression ratio
Stock
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):11.5v( Killed the battery last night leaving a dome light on)
Car running:13.7

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 750cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Innovate LC1
Calibration Date: 20170322

13). Type of fuel
Type: 93
Percent of Ethanol: Whatever comes out of the pump

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes
 

Attachments

  • first idle with hx40.elg
    131.5 KB · Views: 63
Last edited:
I don't see a fuel tab so I can't tell if the injectors are correct or not. I see you have a global fuel adjustment, that shouldn't be needed. Your airflowper rev is too high(target 0.25 unless you have cams) as is your idle. I also noticed that your ISC is in the mid 80's it should be at 30. Other than that it looks decent. You should uncheck "disable airflow smoothing w/SD operation" on the MISC tab.

Lastly, idle logs where the car isn't at 180+ degrees are't that useful. Please post one at that temp.
 
I do have Delta 272's in it. I will adjust the isc tonight and also I will make sure to get it to operating temp. For the "disable airflow smoothing w/sd operation" it doesn't show that it is checked on my laptop. That kinda worries me that it shows on your side but not mine like it is checked but not showing it to me.
 
Oh and just realized I only tested the ISC via vfaq but I did find the adjustment procedures will do that tonight.
 
Okay got the car warmed up and got the ISC to 29 and the IdleAdjust to 145. Now I am watching these videos over and over to try and figure out how to get my A/F Ratio to 14.7 at idle. Other then that what else do y'all see that I need to do?
 

Attachments

  • log.2017.03.25-01.elg
    429.4 KB · Views: 44
Your o2 isnt cycling. Only for a very small portion of your log. Fix that and you should be fine.
 
try and figure out how to get my A/F Ratio to 14.7 at idle

Use your Global deadtime to add/subtract fuel to get target AFR and actual AFR to line up at idle.

Get the car up to temp and let it idle. While it's idling, start a log, and begin adding/subtracting 20 to/from Global deadtime until the target AFR and actual AFR line up perfectly. As you add or subtract fuel, you'll see your actual AFR move on the graph.

For example:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Your target AFR here is 14.7:1 and your actual AFR (what your WBO2 reads) is 13.5:1. You need to lean the mix out a bit, so subtract some fuel at idle by tweaking your global deadtime a bit. Again, repeat this until target AFR and actual AFR to line up.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top