teknicalissue
10+ Year Contributor
- 303
- 3
- Oct 18, 2010
-
Front Royal,
Virginia
Hello All!
Please bare with me as I understand this may get asked thousands of times (as I saw in the search.. but couldn't find anything concrete..)
I did see calan's post and although very helpful.. I think I just need a little more information.
I'm tuning my car for the first time.. so before I continue let me list off my mods
1990 eclipse:
255 Wally rewired
1200cc Bosch FIC injectors
fuel lab FPR set at 37 psi
VSRF FMIC
O2 Dump pipe
20g td05 Turbo intergate @ 18psi
3" GM MAF
Civic Half Sized Rad
Rebuilt Throttle Body half shaft mod etc.. etc..
Innovative LC1 wideband connected to link in front o2 spot
dsmlink v3 Fill
That being said I would also like to say that the car has no boost leaks (used boost leak tester and pumped it up to 25PSI) and no exhaust leaks (verified with seafoam, all smoke came out of tail)
Base timing has been set and Throttle body idle screw has been set.
maintenance has been done as well.
-----------------------
That being said, the car as far as I know is mechanically sound, so now I'm ready to tune.. I've watched the videos on this website and while they cover the basics.. they leave a lot out by saying "we'll cover this in another tutorial" or "this will be convered later"
So What I think the calibrating process of tuning is:
1. Set injector global time and dead time
2. turn on car and play with airflow sliders to get combinedFT close to 0% as possible (for me its +-4.. can't get it narrower than that) or just use the mafcomp option (for me this makes the combinedFT and WBFactor worse..)
3. cruise car and get rid of knock in the timing table
4. go WOT and retard timing on knock
5. increase boost go to step 3
6.grab a beer
Obviously i'm missing a lot of stuff.. like where in this process do you fine tune deadtime and global fuel? what do you check it against to make sure it's right?
I read that my WBfactor has to be +-2%... I can't get it that low and when ever I move my sliders to change the WBFactor.. they throw my combinedFT off and its not close to 0%.
When in the steps above do you tune for AFR? better question is how? I know the table and how it works but do you do it before or after timing? do you do various pulls and open loop cruises and change the cells one by one like timing?
In my logs, I was cruising fine and then out of nowhere I began knocking at 15* when I pressed on the throttle super lightly, the knock walked all the way untile I gave it more throttle or let off the throttle.. don't know what is going on there..
Am I missing anything? I'm willing to learn and if you guys can help me understand this I will absolutely create videos for dsmlink covering everything I learned and post them up for everyone to see..
Thank you in advanced for the help!
Please bare with me as I understand this may get asked thousands of times (as I saw in the search.. but couldn't find anything concrete..)
I did see calan's post and although very helpful.. I think I just need a little more information.
I'm tuning my car for the first time.. so before I continue let me list off my mods
1990 eclipse:
255 Wally rewired
1200cc Bosch FIC injectors
fuel lab FPR set at 37 psi
VSRF FMIC
O2 Dump pipe
20g td05 Turbo intergate @ 18psi
3" GM MAF
Civic Half Sized Rad
Rebuilt Throttle Body half shaft mod etc.. etc..
Innovative LC1 wideband connected to link in front o2 spot
dsmlink v3 Fill
That being said I would also like to say that the car has no boost leaks (used boost leak tester and pumped it up to 25PSI) and no exhaust leaks (verified with seafoam, all smoke came out of tail)
Base timing has been set and Throttle body idle screw has been set.
maintenance has been done as well.
-----------------------
That being said, the car as far as I know is mechanically sound, so now I'm ready to tune.. I've watched the videos on this website and while they cover the basics.. they leave a lot out by saying "we'll cover this in another tutorial" or "this will be convered later"
So What I think the calibrating process of tuning is:
1. Set injector global time and dead time
2. turn on car and play with airflow sliders to get combinedFT close to 0% as possible (for me its +-4.. can't get it narrower than that) or just use the mafcomp option (for me this makes the combinedFT and WBFactor worse..)
3. cruise car and get rid of knock in the timing table
4. go WOT and retard timing on knock
5. increase boost go to step 3
6.grab a beer
Obviously i'm missing a lot of stuff.. like where in this process do you fine tune deadtime and global fuel? what do you check it against to make sure it's right?
I read that my WBfactor has to be +-2%... I can't get it that low and when ever I move my sliders to change the WBFactor.. they throw my combinedFT off and its not close to 0%.
When in the steps above do you tune for AFR? better question is how? I know the table and how it works but do you do it before or after timing? do you do various pulls and open loop cruises and change the cells one by one like timing?
In my logs, I was cruising fine and then out of nowhere I began knocking at 15* when I pressed on the throttle super lightly, the knock walked all the way untile I gave it more throttle or let off the throttle.. don't know what is going on there..
Am I missing anything? I'm willing to learn and if you guys can help me understand this I will absolutely create videos for dsmlink covering everything I learned and post them up for everyone to see..
Thank you in advanced for the help!