First time replacing the engine...

[newdsmtnr96]

Hey every one. Im new still in dsm.. i have a 420a and i had to take it out and get it honed and ect. Im kinda nervious about putting it back in... This is my first time doing this. it was pretty easy taking it out. Im just looking to see if any one has any advise that i might miss when putting my engine back in. I got a new clutch and flywheel. Reason im posting this is to see if any one had "the jitters" of putting the engine back in. Im just hoping that theres no air leaks. i got a whole new gastket set for every thing. So i think i should be good. But im freaked cause if i get it in and like before when i did the intake mani-fold i had an air leak and it reved up real high. Im hoping that wont happen. But yeah I was just wondering if theres any advise you guys can give me Before i put every thing back in and am Breaking the motor. in with new rings and clutch and other mods.

Sorry if this has been posted before. I looked for about 30 min in 420a Forums. and didnt find any thing.

New
DSM
Tuner

newdsmtnr96

 

[skeeterfishin]

Probably the best advise to give is to TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! dont get in a big hurry, take your time and make sure everything is torgued correctly and if there are any doght go back through and check again. i am fairly new to this site but not to dsm's ive owned one in the past and now have gotten another one and going through a possible engine rebuild as we speak. just take your time and double check everything and you should be fine.
good luck!

 

[dieseltech]

Just a few suggestions. The biggest piece of advice i can give it to take your time and don't rush anything. Make sure you have pleanty of lube on your cams for the inital breakin time. Prime the lube system. I've seen suggestions to disable the fuel and spark system and crank the engine until you see oil pressure. Let the starter cool for 3 minutes and crank again. When torquing important engine components where sealing is a big issue hand tight all the bolts. Then step torque starting from the inside working your way out. Step torquing is where you break the final torque spec into three or more smaller torque values in order to ensure even torquing and sealing of the component. This is vital when torquing heads. Pay attention to details. I cannot stress how important it is to take your time and be paitent so when you start the car it actually starts and idles.

Make sure to coat the crankshaft and rod bearings with a good break in lube. Also coat the cylinder walls liberally with oil or a break in lube. I'll try and think of more later, i got to go feed my dog.

 

[dsmputz]

I hope you tagged and bagged everything. I love it when a guy rips apart a whole car and throws all the nuts and bolts into one bucket. When he starts the assembly stage he'll have a total meltdown because he can't remember where each of the 140 something fasteners belong.

 

[Auto RS T]

I hope you tagged and bagged everything. I love it when a guy rips apart a whole car and throws all the nuts and bolts into one bucket. When he starts the assembly stage he'll have a total meltdown because he can't remember where each of the 140 something fasteners belong.

When my friends tear their cars apart they throw all the bolts in one bucket. I think they are testing my dsm knowledge. They are amazed when I put their stuff back together. I guess owning double digit talons is worth something afterall besides a headache.

dieseltech had some really good points like the break in and taking your time.

I will also say just take your time putting things back together. If you are not sure about how a part goes on look at the evidence..."oh this bolt has to have a washer on it, there is a mark from where it was torqed down previously". Also torque bolts to the manuals specs. You should have the manual next to you during the process if you are second guessing yourself putting things on. From my experience it is always harder to put things back together then take them apart. Take your time and look for "evidence" if you are not sure, make the manual your best friend. It also helps to take pictures as you take things aprt so you can visually see how it goes together. I know the motor is out allready but do this in the future on major projects, it really helps. So take your time and pay attention to details. Goodluck

....about the startup....just have your hand on that key to kill it if all goes haywire. But if you do like we say you should feel confident in your work.

 

[95talon_in_ma]

Check, check and recheck...

P.S. Don't forget the oil...

 

[VelocitàPaola]

P.S. Don't forget the oil...

This sounds like a stupid thing to suggest, but I actually forgot to put oil back in after my rebuild... luckily no damage was done, but in any case, heed his warning!


Anyway, I wish I had this thread when I was putting my engine back in. After successfully completing everything, I have a few things to tell you that might help out.

First, when reassembling the engine, don't forget the bedplate O-ring. If you mess that part up, you'll need to pull the engine over again because of the massive oil leak you'll have.

Similarly, don't forget to use a good (Loctite or Permatex) anaerobic sealer between the bedplate and block, and between the oil pump and block. Discount/AutoZone doesn't carry the stuff in a large enough tube, you'll need to go to a Napa. There is no substitute for this part; you cannot use RTV or anything else, it must be anaerobic sealer.

Prime the oil pump after installation by packing it with assembly lube, lithium grease or vaseline. Just start pushing lube through the hole where the oil pick-up tube is until you can't get anymore in.

When you attach the pick-up tube, don't forget the O-ring, and make sure everything is seated properly, or you'll just suck air into the system.

Put assembly lube on all moving parts; wrist pins, all bearings, crankshaft, camshafts, etc.. Use RTV on the front and rear main seals, and on the freeze plugs.

Like everyone above me said, don't misplace your nuts and bolts; put them in labelled baggies.

Do the timing outside of the car, it'll make everything much easier.

When it comes time to drop the engine back in, DO NOT put the crank pulley/UDP on yet! Drop the engine in without it, otherwise it'll be a very tight fit, and you'll likely scratch up the side of your engine bay while squashing some PS lines. Also, jack the tranny up as high as possible. By having the tranny at an angle, the engine is much more likely to drop in smoothly.

When it comes time to start it, try priming the oil system like everyone suggested. You should hopefully see oil pressure. Sometimes, no amount of cranking will yield an appreciable amount of pressure. If this happens, don't freak out. It's OK to briefly start the car for three or four seconds to build oil pressure. If you don't have oil pressure immediately, then something's wrong - stop the car. Hopefully, you should get pressure right away, though.

Also, like everyone said, take your time, and don't rush anything! You're learning how difficult it is to replace an engine, so don't give yourself a reason to have to do it all over again!

When in doubt, refer to the factory service manual (you do have a copy of the FSM, right?), or at least Corbin's manual:
http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html

Good luck!

 

[4UH8ERS]

DONT RUSH! like everyone said. I kind of got in a hurry during my install and i paid for it.
All I forgot was to put the rear main seal in . . Which forced me to re-pull the tranny. That sucked, but i got it in and i was good to go. I am now oil leak free.

p.s. : funny thing was the seal was the only thing sitting on my kitchen counter in plain view and i managed to somehow go in and out the house grabbing tools/drinks ect and never notice it till I started the car and saw oil pouring out.

 

[Blitzeclips]

DONT FORGET THE LITTLE O-RING in the bottom of your block by the oil port! You will leak oil slowly but surely. The only way to fix this is to pull the motor out again!

If you need more details as to where and what, PM me.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

DONT FORGET THE LITTLE O-RING in the bottom of your block by the oil port! You will leak oil slowly but surely. The only way to fix this is to pull the motor out again!

Hence...

First, when reassembling the engine, don't forget the bedplate O-ring. If you mess that part up, you'll need to pull the engine over again because of the massive oil leak you'll have.

 

[newdsmtnr96]

Oh ya i for got the update.. it is running really good and my check engine light is on.. but its cause i took the egr valve off.. and i recently posted a Forum about some minor problems.. but now is running great!!! thanks for everyones help and info
new dsm

 

[TheCykotik1]

just incase u want that light to go away all u have to do is leave the valve on, block off the tube itself and cap the vaccuum line. no egr, no engine light.