First engine build, need a few opinions

[mygsx2120]

Alright, for those of you who read posts on here often, you probably read my recent one about my motor saying goodbye. Bad news is that I spun a bearing so I need to replace the bottom end. Goods news is I should be getting a school loan next week for $20,000. I have decided to make the best out of a bad situation and go balls out with my build. I figure I might as well do it right once, and hopefully be done with it.

As of now I plan on buying
2.3l short block from MAperformance.
ACT 2600 or 2900 clutch w/ street disc
Damper pulley
Cometic hg and ARP studs
New timing belt and accessories
OEM water/oil pumps

So here are my questions:
Internals on the short block-
Wiesco 8.8 pistons or Mahle 9.5 pistons. I planned on the wiesco's because my car is a dd and like the extra cushion of lower compression. Plus I heard it makes tuning easier.
Eagle rods, scat rods, or pay $350 extra for manley
4G64 crank or upgrade to eagle crank

Crank Pulley-
I am definately going with a fluidamper or ATI pulley, the question is which one. Is the ATI worth the extra money, $450 for a pulley seems steap.

If it matters I have an already built 1g head, will be tuning with dsmlink and plan on upgrading my turbo to a FP 3052 Goal for the car is a max effort street car. I prefer track/autocross to drag racing, but I enjoy the strip also. As always, any input is appreciated. Also if there is anything I am forgeting please let me know.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

stay away from the cometic heah gasket... get a genuine mitsu (they're better I know)
ati damper is far better then fluidamper....
Mahle pistons are lighter but wiesco's are better if your not the best at tuning (I would choose the Mahle's personally but like I said it's easier to tune with the lower compression, well not nessacerly easier, just safer)
4g64 crank is sufficent for a 600whp street car
as far as rods go.... I'd say go with the eagle's

what injectors and fuel are you running? (e85, 91+ oct. pump?)

 

[mygsx2120]

I will be running 94 octane, and shortly after the build I will be buying a methanol injection kit. Still not sure what injectors, I have 550's that I am going to sell. Probably at least 880's after that. I want the car to be as reliable as possible. Do you think the eagle crank is more reliable than the 4g64 in say a 500whp car. I really don't want to rev to the moon, but 8,000 rpms or so sounds fun. I understand reliability is all relative to the tuning, driving and maintenance.

As far as tuning goes, I am a beginner. I will probably have it professionally tuned the first time around.

 

[jpbrazill]

I have been using a cometic for quite some time now. I have also recompressed it, twice, with no issues.

The answers to your questions depend on the intent of the car. If you are looking for a 600whp car, then I would suggest the Manley I-beams, Wisecos, and the HP cometic.

If you are shooting for a 500whp, just stick with the Eagle rods.

I have been running a Eagle/Wiseco/cometic 2.4L for some time. You will be pleased with those.

 

[paper_clip_boy]

Its all relative to what your planning to do. Im not sure of the capabilities of your Turbo because Im not a fan of Precision Turbo's but lets be honest.

Say your running a GT35R, 600whp is capable on a 2.3L with Race gas. We all know your not going to be running race gas all the time though. So lets say 500whp-ish on Pump 94 octane. Eagle rods will do the job day in day out, and for the days that you wanna go to the track and run a race gas tune, the rods SHOULD hold up no problem because your not always running them on the edge. As long as your tuning is solid and you maintain the car, you'll have zero problems with the bottom end.

Wiseco's FTW. Mahle is for someone that really knows how to tune and at that Comp Ratio, Its means low boost on Pump Gas.

4G64 Crank is fine. There has been constant battles over whether or not it is safe to run an undersized stroker crank and Im not going to make a comment on it, but why not just run an uncut crank that has been checked over. Kar King can sell you a good looking Crank and a good price.

Just a little insight into your choice. Since MAperformance is ging to be doing the engine, you shouldnt have anything to worry about in ways of shotty work.

My Bottom end is Manley 8.5:1 stroker pistons, Eagle Rods, and 4G64 Crank. ARP Mains and Rod bolts obviously, Bored .020 over, Line Bored, Honed with a torque plate and Proper clearencing done.

Im not one bit worried about it standing up to my Turbonetics GTK 550 or GT35R (waiting for more info from Turbonetics) and Nitrous on Race Gas. If the tuning is good, I'll be ok.

Dont expect miracles though. When pounding on these engines like this, dont expect them to last you 200,000km or for you US guys 125,000 miles.

Best of luck, FYI if you have any serious questions, look at the bragging rights section, ask people who have been there, done that. If there being pricks, ask Evil Eagle or Topstreet, there very friendly guys.

EDIT: Just noticed that you are going with a FP turbo, FP is Good, I must have been thinking of another thread with a Precision Turbo

 

[mygsx2120]

Alright, so after reading these posts and doing some more research, I have made some definate decisions. For piston and rod combo I will be going with eagle/wiesco. Also I am going to buy the ATI damper.

I am still unsure of the crank. I will most likely stick with the 4g64 but I can't quite decide. I will need to talk with MAperformance first. I am not worried about max horsepower, but more importantly about how high I can rev the motor and still be reliable.

I haven't read much about headgaskets as of yet. I feel like they are mainly personal preference. So feel free to tell me why you run what you have.

Also, how important is it that I run an external oil cooler? I've read some threads that make them seem rather crucial, if anyone knows of some good links to point me at, that would be cool.

 

[paper_clip_boy]

When it comes to Revving, since your only using a 3052, You wont need to Rev much past 7500rpm with a 2.3L. A dyno will be the only way to tell for sure but your turbo is much smaller than a GT35R and even that on a stroker doesnt need to rev past 8000rpm usually. So as long as the Harmonics are in check, Revving will not be an issue, and lets be honest, how often are you going to be able to bring it up to 8000rpm. With such power, your not going to be able to fully open it up on public roads everyday.

You might want to look into O-Ringing your head. If your worried about excessive combustion chamber pressures and constantly blowing headgaskets an O-Ring might be worth it. Then get a Titan Headgasket for O-ringed heads and your done. There is also no negative to running an O-Ringed head. I hear lots of people running them and running lots of boost using the stock felt headgaskets aswell.

Oil Cooler, Just Do It. The Oil to water cooler sucks balls anyway and for the cost of running an Oil Cooler, Its a nice piece of insurance for your Engine, especially if you want to do Track/Autocross. If your worried about getting everything right with it, Many vendors sell Oil Cooler kits with all the lines, fittings and cooler included. Will also let you hold more oil in your system and helps with keeping pressure in check.