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FIRST DSM STREET BUILD!!!

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the problems of a dsm right? gas gauge doesnt work anymore since putting it back together, weird sendings units got 70k miles on it fuses all look good.
finally got that hideous blue coupler covered up man was it an eye sour hopefully the purple tapes next 😂
sprungs some leaks when i got it running yesterday.
coolant leaking from the turbo AGAIN! just disconnected the lines over dealing with coolant leaks ill run the turbo with just oil.
also sprung a leak on a line under the throttle body what a mess 🙃
man do i just want to take off on a drive
also im pretty sure theres still a tad of oil coming off my exhaust i was looking and acouple forums said catch cans with no pcv or check valve will cause oil thru the turbo.

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this is a idle and driving down to the end of the street and back my alinment is off and needs done. still dont know why im stuck in open loop sometimes it'll come out of open loop but then right back on.
 

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changed the o2 out with a brand new one did notice the volts shown in ecm link were alot higher now around 4volts instead of the 1.50ish volts the other one was putting out, still goes into open loop.
tps volts are 0.63 as shown in ecmlink
intake temps are locked at 77 because for some reason they wouldnt move from 54 before?
coolant temps reach 196

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Looks like a wideband bosch LSU sensor to the left and a OEM style low-band Denso sensor to the right.

I'm not familiar with ecm link to know if you can run a wideband sensor to it or not.
I run a stock 02 narrow band 0-1v in the front o2 channel for closed loop fuel trims and idle control. I run a wide band 0-5v in the rear o2 channel, and yes You can configure Link to various sensors or custom specs. The narrow band 02 sensor gets its power from the stock ECU, but the wideband needs a controller of it's own that you wire to 12v power and the sensor gets its power from the controller. The WideBand controller gives analog 0-5v output (and sometimes CAN BUS output for other devices) that you wire into the ECU input.
 
Looks like a wideband bosch LSU sensor to the left and a OEM style low-band Denso sensor to the right.

I'm not familiar with ecm link to know if you can run a wideband sensor to it or not.
i thought they were both oem. the one on the left is the one the car came with and it doesn’t seem damaged in anyway, the right is the one i bought from the parts store.
 
well to first of many check engine lights i will have on this journey i took apon myself likeeeee an idio… actually shes going to be a ripper the works pretty easy 🤟🏼 but now i have stumbled upon DTC 0204 “injector circuit malfunction” so on went the testing. and its not looking so good 🙃
PROBLEM IM HAVING:
crank no start condition. will want to fire up if i put starting fluid down its throat.
TESTING:
first i tested power to the harness on #4 great 12volts
then i tested power to the transitor, good to go there 12volts
fuel pressure is solid at 42 the gauge is after the rail so i can tell fuels in the rail.
then i swapped injectors 4-1 cleared the code
made it come back same code 0204 injector-4
tested for spark, good to go
check engine light does come on for 5 sec with key in acc position
pulled injectors all spit fuel
ohm’d injectors 660 denso on the website says 2.5 resistance for mine i got 2.1 for 3 and 2.2 for one.
haven’t made any changes to my ecmlink i looked over everything more then i can count.
got fuel and spark what could my problem be?

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Some details you may already know:

The ECU pulses the injector by providing the ground to the injector coil. From the ECU - the wire goes through the injector coil, and then through a resistor (in the case of low Z injectors) and then to a MPI relay switched 12v power source.

A lack of 12v measured at the ECU harness would trigger the injector circut malfunction.

In my case, The wiring was good, injector coils were good and the resistor pack was good. The ECU capacitors had leaked, and etched gaps in some of the circut board traces, and I sent it to ECM Link to diagnose and repair. Best money I ever spent to stabilize the tune.
 
Some details you may already know:

The ECU pulses the injector by providing the ground to the injector coil. From the ECU - the wire goes through the injector coil, and then through a resistor (in the case of low Z injectors) and then to a MPI relay switched 12v power source.

A lack of 12v measured at the ECU harness would trigger the injector circut malfunction.

In my case, The wiring was good, injector coils were good and the resistor pack was good. The ECU capacitors had leaked, and etched gaps in some of the circut board traces, and I sent it to ECM Link to diagnose and repair. Best money I ever spent to stabilize the tune.
yeah i had come across your thread yesterday. glad your here because i need some help, now i dont mind sending my ecu out to see if its bad but that should be the last case as when i bought it the previous owner had already sent it into ecm link so they could fix a leaking driver doesnt mean i didnt pop the same one or a new one, but all i know how to tell if the ecu is good is by the little check engine light coming on and it does. and i also have spark so it seems to me my ecu is working?
do you think the code is why i wont start? if it was just one injector like its saying wouldnt it atleast try to start on the rest of the cylinders? if you watch the video its pretty dead a burp here or there but pretty much dead.
next low voltage would pop that code? because my battery did take a sh*t ive just been leaving it on the charger and resetting it everytime it says “dead battery” because it was still starting the car til now 💀
after all the testing ive done what would be the next step?
 
Swap inj 4 to another location, and see if the code follows the injector.
please go read all the testing i already did. thats on the list, it came back still on #4
#4 also had 12volts
#4 tested outside of car a stream of fuel was coming out of it.
 
please go read all the testing i already did. thats on the list, it came back still on #4
#4 also had 12volts
#4 tested outside of car a stream of fuel was coming out of it.
Thank you - I see it. The description of "transistor" has me confused. Are you are referring to the injector resistor pack on the firewall? You can check for the right ohms resistance across the pins on that component if you have not, but finding 12v at the ECU probably means the resistor has continuity - but maybe no resistance.

Anywho... Regardless of error message, with spark and fuel, you would expect it to start. Get that battery changed up, you need all the amps you can get to have cranking power and spark.
 
Thank you - I see it. The description of "transistor" has me confused. Are you are referring to the injector resistor pack on the firewall? You can check for the right ohms resistance across the pins on that component if you have not, but finding 12v at the ECU probably means the resistor has continuity - but maybe no resistance.

Anywho... Regardless of error message, with spark and fuel, you would expect it to start. Get that battery changed up, you need all the amps you can get to have cranking power and spark.
yeah sorry meant resistor, its getting 12volts.
ill change the battery out but i dont see it doing much as i thought it should be fine because i didnt have problems turning the car over
 
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