1G 1992 1g dsm no start

[Breadvans]

Little background, traded my last car for a 1992 eagle talon tsi awd. Guy told me it doesn’t have spark anymore, i said whatever and traded.

So turns out every valve was bent. Bought a 2g head. Timing belt was pretty messed up so bought a new one. Redid the timing belt. Crank no start unless i had the gas pedal floored, then it would start sometimes.

Sent my ecu in to get ecmlink to better diagnose the no start. Got the ecu back and same as before crank but no start but will sometimes start with gas pedal but now i don’t have to floor it. Just baby it. Everything i can tell checks out on ecmlink.

Also installed 1800cc injectors. Car has a 16g turbo. Timing checked out. Compression kinda checks out. Reads about 125-130 but haven’t been able to get car to proper operating temperature and do it again. Car has spark and fuel. Car will also idle at 2000 rpms when it is started and I’ve adjusted the biss screw and tried getting the cas in the right place. But it’ll slowly go done to 1500 but below that it just dies.

Please help, really missing some adrenaline

 

[Breadvans]

Car cranks but doesn’t start. If i floor the pedal it won’t start, if i don’t touch the pedal it won’t start, but If i baby the pedal it’ll start, but it won’t start for long. It will idle at 2000 rpms after a few mins. Had this problem before and put on a 2g intake and it did fine just had a small idle surge, so i took it off and blocked off the egr and now it’s back to this.

mods:
16g turbo
1800cc injectors
Adjustable fpr
Fmic
K and n air filter
2g head
2g cams
2g intake

also to note: boost leak tested and it failed. The intake didn’t seem to have any leaks but my crankcase was blowing? Haven’t had a change to warm it off to see if the rings just need to expand. The head was redone and i bought it refurbished

Also, retried the boost leak test at the throttle body and took out the pcv valve and it’s still blowing out the crankcase. So it’s not my breather or my pcv valve

Ugh. I forget to mention a lot, i also broke the bolt on the left and right of the fuel rail, and i can’t get them out. So as of now i only have the middle one holding the fuel rail

 

[92AWDHX40]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/

start here first

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Fix the bolts for the fuel rail. You could have a boost leak and\or a fuel leak because of that. Also, what are your TPS values? If that is faulty, the car will not start or will run poorly. How much air are you using to do a boost leak test? You should only be Concerned with leaks from the turbo to the intake manifold.

 

[Breadvans]

I used 15 lbs, and it sealed fine throughout there, i overlooked all of it and couldn’t find any leaks with soapy water until the crankcase, and that’s what i started thinking about. I think the air is coming out the injectors and i just thought it was the crankcase. Getting the bolts fixed soon, I’ll let you guys know

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

I would use at least 30 to 40 psi on the compressor regulator. That will show any leaks for sure. 15 psi is nothing

 

[Breadvans]

15 psi showed some leaks, and i heard it’s best to use what your boosting at, so you don’t over pressurize your system

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

you will not over pressurize your system. If it seals at 40 psi, it will seal at 15 psi. Turn up the air pressure and that will show you leaks that you never thought existed

 

[Breadvans]

Fixed fuel rail bolts, car still won’t start

 

[92AWDHX40]

Did you follow the thread I posted, you need spark, fuel and compression. Your injectors could be clogged cas could be bad , coil pack . Power transistor. Bad cts those are the basics look into those.

 

[Breadvans]

Yeah i followed that thread a lot before. Timing is on, have compression have spark. Coolant temp reads fine from dsm link, injectors are brand new, just not sure why but it my fuel pressure started reading at 60 psi after i put the intake back on

 

[Breadvans]

You are really loosing out by starting a new thread.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/first-dsm-really-kicking-my-butt-wont-start.534215/

How am i losing? People saw that it was fixed for a min so they stopped replying

 

[Breadvans]

Anybody got anything? Still won’t start. Took the aftermarket fpr off and put the stock one back on because it was showing 60 psi and could find a way to mount it without kinking the return line. Just cranks and never starts but sometimes will sound like it’s about to buy then just nothing

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

What’s your global set to?

 

[Breadvans]

not sure off the top of my dead. i reset it to default after setting it to 0 didn’t work. i’ll have to double check it tomorrow

 

[Breadvans]

I put my car all back together fixed a few small issues. So now i got spark and fuel. My timing is good. I got good compression. I got two DTCs which is pretty much the only lead i got. 13 and 25, Intake air temperature circuit malfunction and Barometric pressure circuit malfunction.

Car cranks and stumbles like it’s going to start. It’ll start with starting fluid and pretty quickly die

 

[92AWDHX40]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/

Please start here and go from there.

 

[pauleyman]

I put my car all back together fixed a few small issues. So now i got spark and fuel. My timing is good. I got good compression. I got two dtcs which is pretty much the only lead i got. 0013 and 0025. Intake air temperature circuit malfunction and barometric pressure circuit malfunction. Car cranks and stumbles like it’s going to start. It’ll start with starting fluid and pretty quickly die

Those two dtcs were probably as a result of trying to fire the car with the maf unplugged. Very common to set those together if that happens.

 

[Breadvans]

Those two dtcs were probably as a result of trying to fire the car with the maf unplugged. Very common to set those together if that happens.

I cleared them and tried again and they came right back with the MAF plugged in

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/

Please start here and go from there.

I started with that, i got all 4 components. Healthy cranking, my coolant temp sensor is working properly. My CAS isn’t flipped

So i tried it without the MAF and it was acting the same way. Is that a signal the MAF is bad? Or would i get more codes if the entire MAF is bad?

Could it just be a short in those two wires?

 

[waltah]

I had the same reaction as Pauleyman -- MAF unplugged. Done it a bunch of times. However since you proved that it isn't unplugged and you get the same symptoms with or without I think you've got a bit of a diagnostic challenge. What I'd do next would depend on what's on hand: If I had a spare MAF I'd substitute that. If I didn't have that I'd grab the shop manual -- it's downloadable on DSMT -- and read up on checking out those sensors in the car.

 

[Breadvans]

I had the same reaction as Pauleyman -- MAF unplugged. Done it a bunch of times. However since you proved that it isn't unplugged and you get the same symptoms with or without I think you've got a bit of a diagnostic challenge. What I'd do next would depend on what's on hand: If I had a spare MAF I'd substitute that. If I didn't have that I'd grab the shop manual -- it's downloadable on DSMT -- and read up on checking out those sensors in the car.

I have a 2g eclipse, should i just hard wire that in? Probably should be upgraded anyways. I got a walbro 255 in and 1800cc injectors

 

[pauleyman]

I have a 2g eclipse, should i just hard wire that in? Probably should be upgraded anyways. I got a walbro 255 in and 1800cc injectors

You have no profile. I would not hard wire in anything. Fix the problem either within your existing maf or the wiring to it which is probably more likely.

 

[Breadvans]

You have no profile. I would not hard wire in anything. Fix the problem either within your existing maf or the wiring to it which is probably more likely.

Okay. Do you happen to know where the stock ground for the MAF grounds at? I tried following it but it looks like it just all goes back inside the interior

 

[pauleyman]

I'm afraid I don't. I would consult the factory manuals. They have full diagrams for wiring locations and electrical schematics

Try here.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-the-1g-service-manuals.344490/

 

[Breadvans]

I have a constant 12v to each injector but they aren’t firing. I have compression, spark is good, timing is good. So I’m left to believe it’s fuel. I’m getting fuel to my fuel rail. It’ll start with starting fluid and die in about 2 seconds.

I used my test light to confirm the 12v, then i hooked my test light to the positive on the battery, and poked the other side with the ground, then used link to command it on and it stayed off.

I also used a noid light on each clip and it didn’t turn on

 

[1g_laser]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/injectors-not-pulsing.306716/