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1G 1992 1g dsm no start

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Breadvans

Proven Member
158
15
May 16, 2021
Harrisburg, Oregon
Little background, traded my last car for a 1992 eagle talon tsi awd. Guy told me it doesn’t have spark anymore, i said whatever and traded.

So turns out every valve was bent. Bought a 2g head. Timing belt was pretty messed up so bought a new one. Redid the timing belt. Crank no start unless i had the gas pedal floored, then it would start sometimes.

Sent my ecu in to get ecmlink to better diagnose the no start. Got the ecu back and same as before crank but no start but will sometimes start with gas pedal but now i don’t have to floor it. Just baby it. Everything i can tell checks out on ecmlink.

Also installed 1800cc injectors. Car has a 16g turbo. Timing checked out. Compression kinda checks out. Reads about 125-130 but haven’t been able to get car to proper operating temperature and do it again. Car has spark and fuel. Car will also idle at 2000 rpms when it is started and I’ve adjusted the biss screw and tried getting the cas in the right place. But it’ll slowly go done to 1500 but below that it just dies.

Please help, really missing some adrenaline
 
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Little background, traded my last car for a 1992 eagle talon tsi awd. Guy told me it doesn’t have spark anymore, i said whatever and traded. So turns out every valve was bent. Bought a 2g head. Timing belt was pretty messed up so bought a new one. Redid the timing belt. Crank no start unless i had the gas pedal floored, then it would start sometimes. Sent my ecu in to get ecmlink to better diagnose the no start. Got the ecu back and same as before crank but no start but will sometimes start with gas pedal but now i don’t have to floor it. Just baby it. Everything i can tell checks out on ecmlink. Also installed 1800cc injectors. Car has a 16g turbo. Timing checked out. Compression kinda checks out. Reads about 125-130 but haven’t been able to get car to proper operating temperature and do it again. Car has spark and fuel. Car will also idle at 2000 rpms when it is started and I’ve adjusted the biss screw and tried getting the cas in the right place. But it’ll slowly go done to 1500 but below that it just dies. Please help, really missing some adrenaline
There are many possibilities and you may have multiple issues. First things first anyways, make your car profile, do a boost leak test and you can also upload a log.
So, your car is a 92 talon and you bought a 2G cylinder head and installed it on your car? If so, you may have a massive boost/vacuum leak from intake ports due to different size, unless you have a 2g intake manifold.
 
Also to consider is that if you are using a 2g head with a 1g block, I dont think the CAS will swap. So unless you also changed the front cover/CAS set up, that is likely your issue. I think your ignition is inverted at best, potentially a lot more issues than that at worse. Also obviously DSMPT has another get point on 2g head to 1g Intake manifold.

Check these things out and let us know but well get this tracked down. Confirm what combination of front case, head, intake manifold, thermostat you have. Do a boost leak test. The compression numbers are not very telling until the motor is warmed up.
 
Everything is 1g except the head. So intake, thermostat housing, and cas all 1g. I’ll do a boost leak test this weekend and same with the log. Have to leave car at my parents so it doesn’t get broken into

I have a 2g intake manifold also, just decided not to use it with the different sensors
 
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There is the problem, the 1g intake on the 2g smaller port head. A boost leak test will show.
 
There is the problem, the 1g intake on the 2g smaller port head. A boost leak test will show.
I don't think I agree. Years ago some shops used to machine out a 2g head to accept a 1g manifold and gasket. There is enough sealing surface, just severely mismatched ports.

My big question is the OP states they used the original thermostat housing. Not possible.
 
I am SURE you know Paul, you have been doing this longer than most.
I run a 2g head on my 1ga Talon and it has the 1g thermostat housing on it. Which part won't mate up?
 
Now I'm second guessing....
If I recall the head uses a different mounting system entirely. Lemme go look.

...

Scratch that crap. I'm thinking about the water pipe setup etc. Carry on.
 
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Update on the car. Did a boost leak test and it failed miserably. Car didn’t even register on the gauge and i couldn’t hear air bleeding out anywhere but the system did not pressurize at all, so i know i got a big leak somewhere. Battery died over the week so i got it charging outside of the car and going to change the intake manifold out since i have the 2g. After i get the intake changed and the battery charged I’ll post a log
 
The green circle is where you probably have a massive leak, the larger port one is 1G and the smaller port one is 2G. And if so, you can't build any pressure while you do a boost leak test. And if you don't have EGR anymore and haven't blocked off the EGR port (where the red circle), I recommend to block off while you are changing the intake manifold unless you use a metal intake manifold gasket.
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Well that sucks. Just got finished swapping out the manifold, and didn’t block off the egr. I really do hope it’s the manifold since its such an easy fix. But I’d feel so stupid for not doing that from the start. Almost ready to give it a try, but i gotta get some hoses tomorrow because the ones in there aren’t quite long enough for the 2g manifold
 
Can I say "I told ya" now???? ROFL
It was an easy fix, and really, an easy thing to over look if you haven't been in these cars very long. I am happy that it "LIVES" :thumb: now move on the the next hurdle!
 
Well I’m back.

Came to work on my car this weekend, adjusted a few things. Started to dial in fuel pressure and took intake off to plug egr because it was blowing pretty bad. I got it all back together and boost leak tested it, and now it’s blowing out of the crankcase? It’s not the pcv or the turbo seal. So I’m thinking piston rings or intake seals.

It will not start unless i press the gas again and then it just dies. Hoping the fuel filter is the reason for not starting, does anyone have a way to test the fuel filter
 
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this is what happens when i set global deadtime to 0, also note, in the first data log i was pressing the throttle on and off to try and start, because for some reason, sometimes that will make it start
These cars are fuel injected. You don’t need to do that. That was something you did back in the day with carbureted engines. I probably missed it but do you have stock size fuel injectors?
 
I’m not sure. It doesn’t start when pedal is floored, it doesn’t start with no pedal, it’ll start to start if you baby the pedal but have to keep pressing as it gets closer

No i have 1800cc injectors, and I’m not pumping it before or anything, as I’m starting it you have to like oscillate the throttle. Right after i changed the intake it started fine just had an idle surge, i took it off to plug the Egr, and now it’s back to this
 
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