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2G Finding turbo-to-manifold bolts in 2021

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raptoranderson

Proven Member
195
21
Sep 24, 2015
Graham, North_Carolina
As with all things DSM both thanks to time and the EPA many aftermarket/ replacement parts are becoming harder and harder to find ....

My issue is with the four turbo-to-manifold bolts. I bought a used Evo III Big 16G that came with a CX Racing manifold (not ideal but it was free) and a Megan Racing o2 housing. The PO had just used random bolts to attach the turbo to the manifold and they're all mismatched styles and all stripped. Badly.

I'm likely going to have to chase the threads on the turbo manifold flange and hope I can salvage what's there, but what can I use for replacement bolts? It came with an ARP bolt but that thing just stripped like all the other bolts. Also these CX Racing manifolds only require bolts that are 2" long at most, so the massive OEM studs won't work. I've also had no luck finding the OEM '11' stamped short Mitsu bolts anywhere.

Any advice?:confused:
 
It sounds like you have a few issues going on there, but if you are looking for the “short” oem bolts used for applications like the FP manifold, people just use the ones normally for the O2 housing... JNZ should have both the long and short oem ones. For example... the oem ones are pricey no doubt, but good...

 
It sounds like you have a few issues going on there, but if you are looking for the “short” oem bolts used for applications like the FP manifold, people just use the ones normally for the O2 housing... JNZ should have both the long and short oem ones. For example... the oem ones are pricey no doubt, but good...

Hey, if it's pricey but it's worth it then it's not too pricey :D

I'll have to cross my fingers and hope that those bolts along with a thread chaser are enough to fix my issue. I really don't want to have to a.) tap new threads or b.) replace the compressor housing :( part of my punishment for buying stuff used I guess. I'm definitely swearing off it for a little while ...
 
Can get replacements all day on stmtuned. Sound like its not the bolts that may be at fault here, but the threads you are trying to secure them in to. Also, replacement housings are not too bad. I got one from turbo lab of America and had no issues at all with it. Hope this helps some.
 
Can get replacements all day on stmtuned. Sound like its not the bolts that may be at fault here, but the threads you are trying to secure them in to. Also, replacement housings are not too bad. I got one from turbo lab of America and had no issues at all with it. Hope this helps some.
I just ordered an OEM set from JNZ. I'm not sold on ARP's exhaust bolts, though I do like the bolt-head design and I have heard stellar things about their head studs. As I said I completely rounded one of their exhaust bolts off, and a rounded thread won't cause a rounded bolt ime.

And I don't doubt Turbo Lab of America and in fact I've also heard stellar things about them, I just didn't want to spend more money than I was trying to spend on a temporary turbo setup. Part of the reason I bought the turbo, manifold and o2 housing was that it was cheaper than buying all of those things brand new. But it looks like that may now be about to bite me in the butt :toobad:

Lessons learned and all that :banghead:
 
It sounds like you have a few issues going on there, but if you are looking for the “short” oem bolts used for applications like the FP manifold, people just use the ones normally for the O2 housing... JNZ should have both the long and short oem ones. For example... the oem ones are pricey no doubt, but good...

Yep, Mitsubishi did a *HUGE* increase in the proper, conical washers. The bolts aren't too bad, but they're killing me on the washers for the kits.

I've looked for aftermarket versions, but I've not been happy enough with what I've found out there. They're either too big, O.D., made of the wrong material, or the thickness (and thereby tension) is too thin. I keep digging...

I'm a big advocate of using at least Nickel Anti-Seize on those bolts, and breaking them loose with the engine hot. One of the biggest killer of these that I've seen is rust forming on the lower portion of the bolt where it sticks out slightly past the housing--rust gets built up and pulls back through the threads wiping them out.
 
What class of bolts are the stock turbo to manifold bolts?
11

Well, they have an '11' stamped onto the head of the bolt

Update:

JNZ bolt kit arrived today. They're exactly what I need!

Threads weren't stripped so the two short class 11 bolts each with a pair of conical washers worked a dream!

However for a CX Racing manifold you need 4 short style bolts because the flange isn't as thick as the stock flange. So I took my chances with a class 8.8 bolt and tomorrow I'm going to go out and find a longer bolt for the PS front bolt hole. The manifold overhangs the hole so much that I can't get a bolt in there, so I'm going to buy a long bolt and install it from beneath and then run a nut down onto the bolt with the two conical washers.

Vague drawing for explanation (not my car):

Red = bolt inserted and threaded into place from bottom with excess sticking out at top
Blue = nut and two conical washers ontop


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I know it's gonna look goofy but this is a temporary setup for maybe 5,000 miles so I can get a feel for the car and see if I want moar powah
 
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The conical washers are a major component that alot of people dismiss or forget about. They should stay snug!
Oh, when you get the turbo "bug", you will probably get a bit of the "I'd like more or that" Good job!
 
Oh, when you get the turbo "bug", you will probably get a bit of the "I'd like more or that" Good job!
Oh trust me, I know I will ;)

I've had my GSX for almost 5 years and it was my first turbo AWD car that started as a daily and then became a project. Since buying a WRX as a daily a couple years ago I fought every single day not to wind more power into it and instead to focus on reliability, handling and cosmetic mods. So I fully expect that spending those years repressing my desire for more hp will now be fully unleashed onto my GSX which was stock when I bought it
 
If you still need a selection of bolts available to get what you need:
Class 12.9 alloy steel bolts will be a little better (stronger) than class 11.9 and they are easier to find too, as long as you don't mind having a socket head, and if you can get in there with that type of wrench. I've used socket head bolts in a few places where I couldn't find the right bolt with a JIS style hex head (JIS heads have smaller wrench size than DIN). JIS bolts are getting harder and harder to find.
Just wild guessing at what bolt size and thread you need there, guessing they are probably 10mm x 1.25mm thread, here is a nice list with lengths going all the way up to 120mm:
Metric socket cap, Class 12.9 alloy steel black oxide finish, 10mm x 1.25mm
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_so...y_steel_black_oxide_finish_10mm_x_1.25mm.aspx

Yeah, I don't understand why the ARP "stripped". The threads stripped? or was it the head that rounded? I don't get it.
If it was the threads that stripped then it sounds like the female threads you tried to put them into are wrecked. In that case I would probably fix the female threads with an actual tap that cuts threads, rather than a "chaser" that just tries to push the misplaced metal out of the way.
And for sure use some type of anti-seize on the threads if you ever want to get the bolt back out again.
 
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Yeah, I don't understand by the ARP "stripped".
The bolt threads stripped.

In my personal experience every time a thread strips on a bolt it's because the bolt wasn't designed to handle high torque specs. I can back this up because when I use a bolt of higher torque specs it does just fine. The threads were perfectly okay and the class 11 Mitsubishi bolt went in without any trouble.

But again, emphasis on 'my personal experience'
 
OEM bolts are nothing special. I have broken countless ones on DSM's and Evos because eventually they oxidize too much and become brittle and/or rusted in. Use generous amounts of the copper colored anti-seize and a grade 10.9 or 12.9 bolt will do just fine. If you have the room, you can run Nord-lock washers (which are better than pretty much everything else).
 
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