ECMlink Finally got Link and I'm trying to learn and dial things in, would appreciate feedback!

[Kryndon]

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
No
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
Yes

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing?
Yes

4). Ignition system
Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK/3 year
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK-BPR7ES/.0255 to help with 8.8CR pistons


5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Not done, rebuilt in 2019 with 7500 miles done

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Yes
Throttle Cable: Yes
TPS: Yes
BISS: Yes

7). Compression ratio
8.8:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
Possibly CTS but I have replaced it 2 times in the last two years and it's still reading high in my opinion (or maybe FMIC is blocking too much airflow?)

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12.6 volts
Car running under load: 13.4 volts (measured from ECMLink)

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): 1000cc (FIC High Z)

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: LC2
Calibration Date: Oct2021

13). Type of fuel
Type: 95 RON (equivalent to 91 in terms of anti-knock)
Percent of Ethanol: ?

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes (and Jafro's, and Scott Laird's, and Today's Project Guides)

15) I am using the stock EVO8 MaxOctMap as well as the Timing Map (with some very minor tweaks to timing for a quicker spool)
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Hey all! I can happily say that I've finally manage to afford and install ECMLink on my Talon, something I've been wanting to do since forever! I left it as the cherry on the top, while having set up all the necessary hardware to make good use of it. You can check my build profile for up-to-date mods.

I've been messing with link for a week and a half now, trying to calibrate the MAF and get a stable idle. So far my idle seems alright and to my eyes I've got AFRatioEst and my Wideband running real close, although in some cases it looks like I've overdone some MAFComp sliders and underdid others... Still work in progress! For global deadtimes I've used the 330usec value and did linear extrapolation to get the InjBatteryAdj values correct based off the ones provided by FIC for my set of injectors. That gives me a -55.5% global fuel correction which I haven't touched since. From my understanding based on all the reading and watching I've done, I need to adjust MAFComp by looking at WBFactor. If it's +20% at 500Hz, I go to that slider and raise it a full 20%. If it's -5.6% at 150 Hz, I slide it down by that much. So in the end that should get my AFR lines overlapping each other. However, I can still see that under Closed Loop it's just doing it's own thing and not getting affected by my MAFComp adjustments. In ECMTuning's website they state "for Closed loop you have to dial in your fuel trims", but I don't see any way to "dial" them in? Fuel trims are how much % of fuel the ECU is adding or removing for the given parameters, right? So how can I affect this and make my Closed loop a solid 14.7? Right now it can go as high as 19:1 which is deadly lean.

Another thing I'm having issue with is knock. Right now the car is running pig rich and drops to -2 / 0* timing on full boost so it's not knocking from the tune but rather, it knocks just as I shift gears and right after I get on the throttle. My thoughts on this are: I have a worn OEM trans mount and the other 3 mounts are polyurethane. So during shifting all 3 are tight but the trans moves too much and too harshly, generating phantom knock. I am going to be filling the trans mount with poly glue (windo weld) very soon, so that should really help with this. As for knocks right after shifting, you can see the fuel mixture remains lean even after WOT is applied for almost a FULL second. I have learned that I can log TPSDelta and bump the "BaseTipInTPSAdj" values by a few counts to essentially make the fuel squirt bigger upon WOT, at least that is my understanding? That should theoretically add fuel into the chambers much sooner and hopefully reduce or eliminate knock. Worth mentioning is that my Wideband O2 is positioned further along the DP, roughly right under the intake manifold. So there is a slight delay of Wideband reading VS AFRatioEst.

Also, I have ordered the Omni 4 bar Mitsu SD Kit which should arrive in a week or two. I know it would drastically change the tuning process but right now I want to focus on learning the basics (because University didn't teach enough of it ) and at least get my airflow calibrated and knocks reduced to a minimum. After that I could move on to adding timing and leaning out the mixtures to make the power I've been wanting.

I have attached a log with some cruising and some good WOT pulls in a row. Don't mind the 222F starting temp at the beginning, I shut off at the side of the road to make some minor changes after this log was made (tip in and some mafcomp).
To make your viewing easier:
Cruising @55mph from 83,400s to 153,300s.
Cruising @30-60mph from 233,800s to 345,500s.
WOT 3rd > 4th > 5th gear pulls from 499,000s to 514,600s.

Thank you in advance for reading and viewing; I would appreciate any and all feedback and tips!

 

[Kryndon]

I also have another log right after the first one where I added some TPSTipIn and did more pulls (my own little Mexico), so I will add it here.

 

[jed344]

Throttle position should be Zero at idle, tps volts should be .63, airflowperrev looks to high, STFT look little lean not bad but hair more dead time needed likely. Wide open should be 5.00 volts and 100%, very low on timing, AFR est vs wide band is not lined up but that can be fixed in maf comp.