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2G FCU/Clutch Accumulator Removal Question

Bsizzle

Probationary Member
16
1
Jun 16, 2019
Las Vegas, Nevada
Hey guys, I am trying to remove the bolts which attach the FCU to the transmission. I am wondering if there is any way to remove the hard line highlighted in the picture In order to remove the bolts without having the need to remove the charge pipe to make more room. I can reach one of the bolts without the need to remove charge pipe or that hard line. I am even having trouble removing the bolt I can reach with a ratchet extension. Feels like it was machine tightened and not sure if I will need to have an impact tool in order to remove it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,
 

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Kryndon

Proven Member
879
533
Jan 10, 2014
Bulgaria, Europe
Are you going to keep the accumulator and original clutch line? If not, cut it either at the flexible side or at the hard side and make room.

If you want to do it cleanly and keep it, try using a flared end wrench and some PB blaster. The two bolts in question are 12mm sizes IIRC so they shouldn't be that tight, but keep in mind they're zinc coated bolts threaded into aluminium, so it's bound to seize a bit harder with time.

Personally I eliminated my accumulator and noticed sharper clutch actuation without any negative effects.
 

Bsizzle

Probationary Member
16
1
Jun 16, 2019
Las Vegas, Nevada
Thank you guys for all of the advice! Use the correct tools and made it a lot easier to remove the bolts. How do you go about removing the flexible line connected to the hard line under fuse box which leads to master cylinder?

Every time I try to loosen the nut the hard line just moves along with it and don’t see it loosen.
 

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pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,307
2,852
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
That clip isnt installed right. Cant tell but done correctly the soft line end fits into the bracket if I recall. This would hold it still while you loosen the hard line fitting. If the hardline starts to twist its seized in the fitting. Stop before you break it. Lube it up and use line wrenches. New braided line should go from the hardline at the fender all the way to the slave. I've seen people run a braided line to the master but for the life of me I dont know why. No need to replace the factory hardline.
 

Kryndon

Proven Member
879
533
Jan 10, 2014
Bulgaria, Europe
New braided line should go from the hardline at the fender all the way to the slave. I've seen people run a braided line to the master but for the life of me I dont know why. No need to replace the factory hardline.

The cleanest way is to run the new aftermarket strengthened line from the master to the slave directly. It looks better, it cleans up the bay, it removes the old factory hardline, which in some cases might be kinked or corroded and about to leak. It also (depending on the aftermarket line's length) reduces the total clutch fluid capacity, so pedal feel can change more towards a stiffer, more precise feeling.

That said, for a daily, unmodified DSM, I'd rather keep the OEM clutch lines and clutch disk, since I've already developed the left leg clutch syndrome :cry:
 

Bsizzle

Probationary Member
16
1
Jun 16, 2019
Las Vegas, Nevada
I installed the clip correctly..**Please note the picture attached is the old pic I used with the clip installed incorrectly** I am currently awaiting arrival of line wrenches I bought to be shipped to my house. I’m assuming you use one line wrench to hold the metal part connected to the soft line (highlighted in blue) in the picture and loosen the nut with (highlighted in red with another wrench correct?

Could a line wrench fit within the gap in the picture to hold that part while I loosen the nut? What millimeter size of line wrench is needed to hold the soft line part?

As for Your comment Kryndon..I originally bought the whole SS line from Master to Slave but I rethought of doing that after seeing how much of a pain it would be to remove the hardline going all the way to Master. So I just bought the SS Slave line. Lol.

I will provide an update when I have it finally installed.

Thank you guys very much again for all the help!
 

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pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,307
2,852
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
I installed the clip correctly..**Please note the picture attached is the old pic I used with the clip installed incorrectly** I am currently awaiting arrival of line wrenches I bought to be shipped to my house. I’m assuming you use one line wrench to hold the metal part connected to the soft line (highlighted in blue) in the picture and loosen the nut with (highlighted in red with another wrench correct?

Could a line wrench fit within the gap in the picture to hold that part while I loosen the nut? What millimeter size of line wrench is needed to hold the soft line part?

As for Your comment Kryndon..I originally bought the whole SS line from Master to Slave but I rethought of doing that after seeing how much of a pain it would be to remove the hardline going all the way to Master. So I just bought the SS Slave line. Lol.

I will provide an update when I have it finally installed.

Thank you guys very much again for all the help!
If you look at the bracket you will notice you don't need to hold the soft line. The bracket isn't just a pass through. It's notched and holds the soft line fitting in place. You only need a wrench on the hardline fitting.
 

Bsizzle

Probationary Member
16
1
Jun 16, 2019
Las Vegas, Nevada
With that said..I think I may be confused on how hard line is removed/ detached from the soft line. The nut on the hard line can be loosened so much to be removed from the threading on hard line correct? If so, the nut may be seized. Would PB blaster be the best way to line it or can something else be used?

I’m trying to visualize how it is detached in my mind..Confused on how just removing/ loosening the nut on the hard line side from the threading completely will help to remove the soft line.

My apologies if I sound a little ignorant...just trying to fully understand exactly how the soft line part is removed from the hard line.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,307
2,852
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
With that said..I think I may be confused on how hard line is removed/ detached from the soft line. The nut on the hard line can be loosened so much to be removed from the threading on hard line correct? If so, the nut may be seized. Would PB blaster be the best way to line it or can something else be used?

I’m trying to visualize how it is detached in my mind..Confused on how just removing/ loosening the nut on the hard line side from the threading completely will help to remove the soft line.

My apologies if I sound a little ignorant...just trying to fully understand exactly how the soft line part is removed from the hard line.
There is no threading on the hard line. The fitting is slipped over it and there is a flare on the end. If the hardline is twisting then the fitting is seized to the line. Yes some BP blast is in order. Do not keep turning or you will kink the line. The fitting is obviously threaded but it spins freely on the line.
 

AWD-Tony

Supporting Member
6,802
3,690
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
It’ll looks like this except the tip of the hard line will be flared. The fitting will slide back and forth on the line as long as the line is somewhat straight. If you have a small torch, put some heat on it. Just make sure there’s nothing in the way so you don’t melt anything or burn the car down. Pb blaster or equivalent might work also.

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Bsizzle

Probationary Member
16
1
Jun 16, 2019
Las Vegas, Nevada
Thank you all for the descriptions and pictures. I have the clip between the fitting and the black metal. As the pic in TK's9d2TSi post portrays. The hard line and soft line continued to twist with each other along with the bracket when attempting to loosen the fitting/nut every time. I literally tried about every which way to put the clip on.

I then purchased WD-40 Special Penetrating Oil today. Sprayed the fitting multiple times..let it sit for 1-2 and then 10 minutes. Didn’t help whatsoever. I’ve literally been attempting to take this fitting off about a total of 6 hours on and off. I’m past frustrated with this.

I may try to use a long lighter to reach the fitting and burn it for awhile to see if it loosens after that in a couple days on my next day off work. Should I burn the fitting or the hardline next to the fitting or both?

I may attempt to just remove the whole hard line completely and just cut/break it if heating it doesn’t help it get loose. I have a SS full clutch line from master to slave and just the SS slave line as well.

Does finding/tracing the hard line going to master take a lot of work and is hard to do with the engine in? I haven’t attempted to trace the hard line to see where it leads throughout the engine bay..as that was going to be my last resort because I don’t have much room in engine bay.
 

Bsizzle

Probationary Member
16
1
Jun 16, 2019
Las Vegas, Nevada
I completely forgot to update this thread. I finally got the fitting loosened from the hardline about mid week last week. I got the SS slave line installed and clutch bled.

I should’ve done this mod awhile back! I love how instantly/quickly the clutch pedal comes up now and no lag in clutch engagement! Thank you all again for your help! Very happy with this cheap mod!
 

Ceezdsm99

Proven Member
70
10
Mar 11, 2022
California
I completely forgot to update this thread. I finally got the fitting loosened from the hardline about mid week last week. I got the SS slave line installed and clutch bled.

I should’ve done this mod awhile back! I love how instantly/quickly the clutch pedal comes up now and no lag in clutch engagement! Thank you all again for your help! Very happy with this cheap mod!
Hey bsizzle I ran into a similar issue as you , that hard line going from the accumulator to the slave started leaking on me , I wanted to replace the line but Mitsubishi dosent make the part anymore and there’s no stock of it .. so then I heard of just deleting the lines and acc , but PO added a ss line from the master to the accumulator without deleting it , How do I go about doing this ? Here’s a picture of what I have going on … will I have to install a new one going from the master to the slave or can I use the one that’s there

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Ceezdsm99

Proven Member
70
10
Mar 11, 2022
California
I didnt delete mine when I ran the new long line from the clutch master. I just left it unhooked and cut the end of the rubber line to the clutch.
So you could just bypass it and not delete it
I get you . Ended up just putting a new SS line and leaving the old one there just in case … also left the accumulator there . Only because my gst has been sitting for a while and I just wanted too get it back on the road .It feels really good compared to with the accum . Any side effects tho ?🤔thanks for your advice @chryslerkid
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,535
532
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
I get you . Ended up just putting a new SS line and leaving the old one there just in case … also left the accumulator there . Only because my gst has been sitting for a while and I just wanted too get it back on the road .It feels really good compared to with the accum . Any side effects tho ?🤔thanks for your advice @chryslerkid
I never noticed any difference with the accumulator bypassed. The accumulator is suppose to add softer pedal pressure so the pedal feels easy to press down

The best way to describe what mitsubishi was thinking when they designed these cars, was they were making a premium luxury performance car like the g35

My ig is sayaben15
 

Ceezdsm99

Proven Member
70
10
Mar 11, 2022
California
I never noticed any difference with the accumulator bypassed. The accumulator is suppose to add softer pedal pressure so the pedal feels easy to press down

The best way to describe what mitsubishi was thinking when they designed these cars, was they were making a premium luxury performance car like the g35

My ig is sayaben15
Yeah I feel the gears going in better and damn your gst is nice 👌🏾👌🏾
 
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