Resolved Extend master clutch rod or shim pivot ball

[ErikTande]

Here’s my update:
So I cut a 1mm washer and was able to add this shim with a magnet and a long screwdriver. It fell once but no big deal fishing it out with the magnet.

What was your method for this? Grind down a wrench? Did you have to pop the fork off the ball to shim it?

Thanks!

 

[AWD-Tony]

What was your method for this? Grind down a wrench? Did you have to pop the fork off the ball to shim it?

Thanks!

I had a cheap thin 9/16 open wrench (5.2mm to be exact) that I wrapped with tape so it fit snug and left the fork as is. Didn’t want to cut my good wrench. Also notched it a little where it hits the housing.

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[ErikTande]

I had to trim my wrench down WAY more than that , i cut a washer into a "C" shape and used a magnet to get it in place. I cut the notch in the washer intentionally just a little too small to go over the bolt. Then I got it lined up with a magnet and tapped it in place with a hammer and screwdriver. That stuck it on while I was able to tighten it up again.

I'll post results in a couple days!

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[AWD-Tony]

I had to trim my wrench down WAY more than that , i cut a washer into a "C" shape and used a magnet to get it in place. I cut the notch in the washer intentionally just a little too small to go over the bolt. Then I got it lined up with a magnet and tapped it in place with a hammer and screwdriver. That stuck it on while I was able to tighten it up again.

I'll post results in a couple days!

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Glad you got it in there. Grinding it that much saved you some time turning the nut. It took me a while . When you get a chance, post a pic of where the fork now sits.

 

[ErikTande]

Alright so we have success. The extended master helped the most, and after shimming the pivot ball I have no clutch drag at 7000 RPM. at 7500 the car rocks forward a little bit but not enough to move. So I'm calling it good. After the extended master rod the engagement feels awesome, it's not right off the floor anymore, the pedal comes up a couple inches before the clutch engages.

Now time for break in. : D

 

[AWD-Tony]

Alright so we have success. The extended master helped the most, and after shimming the pivot ball I have no clutch drag at 7000 RPM. at 7500 the car rocks forward a little bit but not enough to move. So I'm calling it good. After the extended master rod the engagement feels awesome, it's not right off the floor anymore, the pedal comes up a couple inches before the clutch engages.

Now time for break in. : D

Awesome, Eric!! Glad it worked out.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Bringing this one back up. I’m now in the same boat. Just installed a brand new Comp clutch/flywheel into my 1g. New OEM master and slave. Bled everything. Car would not even go into gear. Pedal assembly seems to have zero play as the master rod starts to move as soon as the clutch pedal moves.

I installed a different clevis pin on the pedal assembly. This one has a nut welded onto the end for extra adjustment. This allowed me to get the car into gear, but pedal engagement is still too close to the floor for my liking.

Is my next move pulling the trans and installing a shim under the pivot ball? My last car didn’t require this and it shifted and engaged/disengaged perfectly.

 

[luv2rallye]

Every clutch pedal engages at a different place depending on geometry and wear of clutch disk, PP, fork, TO bearing, and flywheel thickness/step. The pedal and slave rods only change the pedal position of where the clutch disengages/engages. It does not make the clutch engage at the proper point in relation to the clutch geometry no matter where it is adjusted. The proper point of clutch engagement is just barely right of center in the fork window no matter where any rods are adjusted (see: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/armcentered.jpg). {Too far left and it may not disengage far enough and drag/grind gears (and may be stopped by the housing window and crack the housing). Too far right and it may not engage fully and slip.} Choice of the manufacturer's parts (geometry/alignment) and wear of clutch disk, PP, fork, and flywheel thickness/step change this. If it's not correct, you will have to change/replace manufacturer's parts or shim the pivot ball to move the fork back to the correct position. [Aside note: Many people think the pivot ball wears down when actually it's the fork at the point it rides on the pivot ball. However you should always put a small dab of grease on the end of the pivot ball due to this.] Make sure when bleeding you read and do "step two" here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772.