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EVOIII 16g dyno sheets?

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Funny on race gas with no passenger seat this car has gone 7.66 @ 91.52 mph with 1.7 60ft in the 1/8th !
But your making more power because your 2g is heavier, mines only weighs a little under 2750 w/o driver.

heh.

i've gone [email protected] in the 1/8th... with a 1.68x 60 footer... on pump gas WITH a passenger seat!

odd thing is that the car has trapped 91.xxmph in the 1/8th a bunch of times, but that was my quickest e/t (1/8th and 1/4). track times are confusing.

and 11.8 @ 113mph... that sounds like it would have a nasty (1.60 or better) 60 footer... I'm at 12.07@113 with a 1.68... driving the hell out of the car... that trap with that e/t seems like the car would have to hook REALLY good.
 
heh.

i've gone [email protected] in the 1/8th... with a 1.68x 60 footer... on pump gas WITH a passenger seat!

odd thing is that the car has trapped 91.xxmph in the 1/8th a bunch of times, but that was my quickest e/t (1/8th and 1/4). track times are confusing.

and 11.8 @ 113mph... that sounds like it would have a nasty (1.60 or better) 60 footer... I'm at 12.07@113 with a 1.68... driving the hell out of the car... that trap with that e/t seems like the car would have to hook REALLY good.

Ahh boo now you have to pop up and rub it in because your a lil faster. This is done on a evo3 though with completley stock internals and this car has trapped 115mph so i got you in the 1/4 :cool: LOL

and yea for Boosted98gsx sounds like coming out the hole like a rocket and petering out on speed in the top end a little. I want to assume you both have a 2 step stuttarbox like me with those times. What rpm do you launch at,
do either of you use nlts.?
 
Yea, dsmlink stutterbox set at 4500. I had it at 5250 for a while, but launching that high on street tires was making traction an issue, dropped it to 4500 and BAM! 7.65 @ 91mph. I've been having some issues with boost tapering off to redline due to a shitty JoeP MBC, but I've got a Blitz dual SBC now with a Hallman as backup.

NLTS is not worth using especially on something that's going to spin back up as fast as a 16g at the post shift RPMs. I use it, but haven't gotten the nerve to completely keep my gas foot nailed to the floor between shifts.
 
Yea, dsmlink stutterbox set at 4500. I had it at 5250 for a while, but launching that high on street tires was making traction an issue, dropped it to 4500 and BAM! 7.65 @ 91mph. I've been having some issues with boost tapering off to redline due to a shitty JoeP MBC, but I've got a Blitz dual SBC now with a Hallman as backup.

Yea its all in how good you slip the clutch and how good your set up is. ( Tires, suspension)
Ive been launching at 5k stuttarbox, im going to bump it up to 5500 soon and leave it there. Ive done 6k stuttarbox launches before and that was just too much, it breaks traction pretty bad and torque steers and flings the rpms to redline in no time with a 6k launch.

NLTS is not worth using especially on something that's going to spin back up as fast as a 16g at the post shift RPMs. I use it, but haven't gotten the nerve to completely keep my gas foot nailed to the floor between shifts.

I beg to differ, so far nlts works pretty good to me, the transition of going into the next gear is so much smoother while using this and gets me moving faster in mph not to mention i can actually shift BETTER and faster while using this vs shifting the conventional way. Most of my friends whove used this gained 2-3mph on their 1/4 time just with using the nlts. It feels wierd using it at first, will feel like your going to mess up something but you just got to take it out your mind to take your foot off the gas and keep your foot planted to the floor. I practiced getting the rhythm of nlts with the car off imitating how it would feel with me going thru the gears fast with my foot to the floor still... Also plus you get that cool backfire between shifts :sneaky:
 
Ahh boo now you have to pop up and rub it in because your a lil faster. This is done on a evo3 though with completley stock internals and this car has trapped 115mph so i got you in the 1/4 :cool: LOL

actually, you are a little faster. I was just making a 'fun' comparison, not bragging at all. 115mph traps are not bad at all.

note- i'm on completely stock internals (removed balance shafts though) and a good ol' br big16g.
 
actually, you are a little faster. I was just making a 'fun' comparison, not bragging at all. 115mph traps are not bad at all.

note- i'm on completely stock internals (removed balance shafts though) and a good ol' br big16g.

Same here as far as stock internals with b.s.e.
You are very close to hitten that magical 11.9 number.
But from now on I want to stick to pump gas; meth; or e85.
Im not a hardcore racer and I want the same car; tune; set up that I race on the track
the same thing I have when i drive around on the street.

So hopefully with the addition of cams and a few other mods, i goal on taking this evo3 to high 11s on pump gas which I know isnt easy but i may turn to more weight reduction- i.e. cf hood/ hatch/ speed glass on the rear hatch window/ aluminum drive shaft, and i plan on getting dsmlink so i can fine tune further than my chip tune has been taking me and hope i can hit that number with 23psi ish with the cams... The car going 115 i believe was on 25psi without cams and with a o.d. aggressive tune and it was knocking and pulling timing that pass, so once i get cams considering all that i should still be close .
 
Nah, you don't need weight reduction, that's the ricer way of getting faster, just a better foot/hand combination to get those 1.6 60 foots down, and a decent tune on 23 psi to hit an 11 on an evo3.
 
Nah, you don't need weight reduction, that's the ricer way of getting faster, just a better foot/hand combination to get those 1.6 60 foots down, and a decent tune on 23 psi to hit an 11 on an evo3.

I dont find weight reduction ricer like, its functional and I dont mean gut your car so that it looks like a pos, you can still keep it clean. Weight reduction also helps with handling and braking ( which im going to be focasing on because I want to autox this car.)
Theres a lot of pros to weight reduction but this isnt the thread for it, as far as the carbon fiber stuff my car is black and if i got carbon fiber id hope id be able to paint it black with the car so you wouldnt know it was carbon fiber, besides i want a vented hood to get some heat out the engine bay. ( Maviskys hood was one of the ones i was looking at.)
Trust me im about function. And reguarding the Aluminum driveshaft I happen to know a guy who runs one and it really does make a difference. If only the price of it was lower id say it would be completely worth it on a car that wanted everything at its arsenal.
Like i was saying, i want to make this car as fast as possible with gas i can find at the pump.
but ey my ricer midly gutted 1g w/ a 16g already broke into the 11s once (race gas) pm me when you do to. :p :shhh:
 
Wieght reduction helps a LOT IMO. Not over done though. My car is VERY light, yet still has everything (that I use) and doesn't look gutted at all. still has a complete interior, and a stereo that sounds really good for a 1g. But it wieghs in at 2800lbs with me in it. I contribute my car being so quick due to it's lightness. Not to mention being a LOT easier on drivetrain related parts.

If I could hold 23 psi to redline my car would be much quicker trap wise, but no matter how high I crank the boost, it will be between 17-19psi thru the traps, and I hate it. Theres more power for sure in mine.
 
When boost drops because the turbo's flow capacity is pegged, it's not really a bad thing. :) You won't get any more boost, so your task now becomes how to make the most power with that airflow that you have.

I run NLTS even on small turbos like 16Gs, but the effect is certainly much more appreciable on larger turbos. On the T67 I picked up 3 mph just from NLTSing the 3-4, and picked up nearly a full second when I did the other shifts as well. Either way, I also feel that shifts are much smoother on NLTS. I don't leave home without it. In fact, if I didn't cry to Tom and Dave for so long, you might be waiting for it to show up in V3 instead of V2. :)
 
I've heard of people running 22psi till redline on 14b's... i'm sure a 3" exhaust might help me hold a little more boost, who knows.

NTLS does make for some damn smooth shifts. I can't tell which is quicker for me.. lifting or not... (i shift fast) ... and a 16g isn't big enough to have a big impact on it.

Sure is fun to do with someone that's never seen it done before. "holy shit you shift fast".. i guess no bov makes it seem faster.
 
That was a low blow.

Sorry man i go too far to make a point sometimes. Nothing personal.
Your car is fast especially considering weight differences, and looks wayy better than my pos.

Wieght reduction helps a LOT IMO. Not over done though. My car is VERY light, yet still has everything (that I use) and doesn't look gutted at all. still has a complete interior, and a stereo that sounds really good for a 1g. But it wieghs in at 2800lbs with me in it. I contribute my car being so quick due to it's lightness. Not to mention being a LOT easier on drivetrain related parts.

If I could hold 23 psi to redline my car would be much quicker trap wise, but no matter how high I crank the boost, it will be between 17-19psi thru the traps, and I hate it. Theres more power for sure in mine.

My weight reduction status is about the same as this guys and the car doesnt "look" gutted except for the backseats being missing, my engine bay looks pretty empty as well though.
I also feel my cars lightness has a major factor in its overall performance in all aspects and yes its easier on drivetrain parts especially when launching, not to mention better gas mileage. My psi doesnt drop as low though, mines never falls below 21 unless im really revving past 7k.( but i dont have cams yet either) but still perhaps why your traps are a little lower, do you have the 34mm w.g. flapper or any porting done to the wastegate area?

I've heard of people running 22psi till redline on 14b's... i'm sure a 3" exhaust might help me hold a little more boost, who knows.

NTLS does make for some damn smooth shifts. I can't tell which is quicker for me.. lifting or not... (i shift fast) ... and a 16g isn't big enough to have a big impact on it.

Sure is fun to do with someone that's never seen it done before. "holy shit you shift fast".. i guess no bov makes it seem faster.

I think the ppl who can get 22psi to redline on a 14b doesnt mean there in any way faster, i just think that their engine VE isnt as high and thats why the turbo can "still" hold boost that long... The more you increase VE the harder the turbo has a time w/ keeping up with the engines flow needs ( i.e. big cams, stroked motors, high flowing manifolds and head work.) Once you tap into the engines true potiential i dont think any turbo under a evo3 16g should be able to hold 22+ to redline.
 
Don't forget, some people who are running a 14b are also running a stock intake manifold, which can be quite restrictive up top, so plenum pressure could be higher than cylinder pressure.
 
I think the ppl who can get 22psi to redline on a 14b doesnt mean there in any way faster, i just think that their engine VE isnt as high and thats why the turbo can "still" hold boost that long... The more you increase VE the harder the turbo has a time w/ keeping up with the engines flow needs ( i.e. big cams, stroked motors, high flowing manifolds and head work.) Once you tap into the engines true potiential i dont think any turbo under a evo3 16g should be able to hold 22+ to redline.

Well my motor is still all stock (internals, manifolds, head, etc) so i honestly don't see it's ve range being diferent than a 14b's. But I do feel the 2.5" turboback is holding back, as I always hear of people creeping with their 16g's on a 3" exhaust... damn i'd be happier with boost creep, if it was somewhat manageable.

My setup is essentially the same as my old 14b car's setup, and that car couldnt hold boost either. I also have an evo3 turbine housign on my 16g, i heard its supposed to have better boost control vs. a standard 7cm housing, but it didn't seem to help much. right now my o2 housing is the bottle neck in my exhaust (though i consider my turboback to be a bottleneck too, the o2 housing isn't 2.5" like the rest)
 
Well my motor is still all stock (internals, manifolds, head, etc) so i honestly don't see it's ve range being diferent than a 14b's. But I do feel the 2.5" turboback is holding back, as I always hear of people creeping with their 16g's on a 3" exhaust... damn i'd be happier with boost creep, if it was somewhat manageable.

My setup is essentially the same as my old 14b car's setup, and that car couldnt hold boost either. I also have an evo3 turbine housign on my 16g, i heard its supposed to have better boost control vs. a standard 7cm housing, but it didn't seem to help much. right now my o2 housing is the bottle neck in my exhaust (though i consider my turboback to be a bottleneck too, the o2 housing isn't 2.5" like the rest)

What o2 housing do you have, a restrictive o2 housing could definitly effect the turbos upper end performance.; and i was wondering if the new fp18gs w.g setup with the 14psi actuator would work with these 16gs to help maintain boost a little longer, even if for only a little... Your 2.5 definitly could be upgraded to 3in id say, and as far as creep for some reason I dont have major creep problems like all my friends ive seen, with open dp my evo3 only creeped to a max of 17psi in the upper gears... 17psi is manageable on a decently set up car in my opinion... I hear porting of the w.g. on the 16g isnt so great for spooling properties and as far as holding the boost for the maximum amount of time.
 
I only have a lightly ported 2g o2 housing. Not 2.5" like my turbine housing or turboback, so it's def the biggest restriction.
 
Not going to spend the money on an external gate for this turbo setup. I plan on retiring it in the winter .. and new turbo may have somehting other than a 38mm
 
I think im about to go take my car in and dyno it tommorow before i install some cams.
This will be done on pump gas, hopeing to be beyond 300awhp on pump and 20psi ( w/ current street tune.) I will post graphs and videos and etc once its done. Stay tuned!
 
I think im about to go take my car in and dyno it tommorow before i install some cams.
This will be done on pump gas, hopeing to be beyond 300awhp on pump and 20psi ( w/ current street tune.) I will post graphs and videos and etc once its done. Stay tuned!

Should be right at 300whp with your setup.

Good luck:)
 
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