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EvoII for Targa NL

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TargaTen

Probationary Member
16
0
Aug 18, 2010
St John's, NL_Canada
So I've been told my engine in my '94 EvoII is the same as 95-99 Talon's....
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there for I'd like to run my proposed setup by you guys for opinions.

The car is headed to Targa NL where it will see everything from a 7KM town stage with 42 corners to a flat out 30KM stage where you'll spend most of it at 200KPH!

Currently the car has close to 65000KM's on it,is completely stock,runs .7bar of boost and had a compression test of 175,175,163,169.It runs fine except I think it has some boost leaks(which I'm working on).

I'd like to do the following:
Intake
Exhaust
Fuel pump
Larger injectors
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Boost controller
Head bolts
DSMLink V3
1.5bar

Any thoughts please.
Paul
 
Paul,

Intake (manifold or just intake pipe)
Exhaust (full exhaust or cat back)
Fuel pump (I'd say get a 255hp or one of Jay Racing's new Pro Series pumps)
Larger injectors (get the biggest you can afford, DSMLink can handle them)
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (def. a good choice, consider a fuel filter also)
Boost controller (manual will be fine at your 1.5 bar suggestion, Halman Pro)
Head bolts (ARP head studs, I'd consider an MLS gasket at the same time)
DSMLink V3 (v3 lite would probably be fine with your setup, you could even go SD)
1.5bar (clutch upgrade would be recommend at this point)
 
Just intake pipe and a full exhaust.

I'm moving the battery to the trunk,which should free up room for this...
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What is SD?(v3lite....SD)
 
Sorry for the questions but I don't have a clue about this.Why would I want to get rid of the MAS.....and are there downsides?
 
Sorry for the questions but I don't have a clue about this.Why would I want to get rid of the MAS.....and are there downsides?

To allow removal of the pre-turbo restriction MAS.

Downsides are having to purchase and install necessary components for SD operation. You'll need an IAT sensor, as well as a MAP sensor. Of course then you'll need a SD tune. This assumes you have the necessary EMS, such as ECMlink v3.
 
That seems wacky to me. 1st gen DSMs had some interchangeability w/ Evo3s, so why would a Evo2 have a 2nd gen DSM drivetrain?

No matter; driving skills, suspension, brakes and tires trump any engine upgrades in rallyracing, even Targa. Concentrate there first.
 
That seems wacky to me. 1st gen DSMs had some interchangeability w/ Evo3s, so why would a Evo2 have a 2nd gen DSM drivetrain?

No matter; driving skills, suspension, brakes and tires trump any engine upgrades in rallyracing, even Targa. Concentrate there first.

I have no idea,just going on what I've been reading.So you think its closer to 1st gen DSM?

Agreed.I've been focused on Solo2 events(for pratice on tight technical stages),travelled to a track for a racing school(for some higher speed pratice),and done Targa twice before(once in GT,and once in a rented rally car).Suspension/brakes are a must before hand,tires are restricted to 140 treadwear,so I think I'm ready for a "little"bit more power.

I'm not going crazy with engine mods,but would like to have a little more "grunt" for the straights,so I don't have to take as big risks on the corners.In 2009 I managed a class 8 win in a Civic,but I had to take some big chances in the corners to keep the speed up.
 
I have no idea,just going on what I've been reading.So you think its closer to 1st gen DSM?

Hmmn, on second thought a 94 would have a 7bolt block so makes sense its a 2gen motor. Its the turbo and trans gears that are the Evo3 tasty upgrades for 1gen 4G63s which would be inter-changable anyway.

According to many, the 1st gen is the better block to have. 2nd gen was supposedly infamous for developing crankwalk. Don't know, never had one but have seen many 2nd gen cars w/ swaps for 1st gen motors. Also, lots more aftermarket parts available for 1st gen.

Add to your list a Evo3 turbo which would upgrade you from 60 mm to 68 mm. and still have decent spool for rallying, Evo3 exhaust manifold, Evo3 O2 sensor housing (possibly w/ atmospheric dump), 3 inch downpipe, AEM fuel rail since you are doing larger injectors and adjustable pressure regulator anyway, ..
 
Evo3 O2 sensor housing (possibly w/ atmospheric dump) said:
Atmospheric dump. This isn't a track, they are on public roads and I bet that there are rules regarding decibel levels and emissions. Know the rule book inside and out. This would never pass tech at RA and I have reason to suspect it wouldn't fly here.

Aftermarket fuel rails: I would make sure that you won't have to cut the upper timing cover to make it fit after you add the fittings and lines

Any thoughts please.
Paul

What class do you plan on participating in?
 
Add to your list a Evo3 turbo which would upgrade you from 60 mm to 68 mm. and still have decent spool for rallying, Evo3 exhaust manifold, Evo3 O2 sensor housing (possibly w/ atmospheric dump), 3 inch downpipe, AEM fuel rail since you are doing larger injectors and adjustable pressure regulator anyway, ..

Changing the turbo and/or going with a downpipe larger than 2 inch bumps me right to open class.I don't have the cash to compete with the other cars in open class.

Atmospheric dump. This isn't a track, they are on public roads and I bet that there are rules regarding decibel levels and emissions.

What class do you plan on participating in?

Correct.We need to have some sort of muffler and a cat.(working and in the stock location)Plus its a full week and 2200KM's.....


Modern,level 2 prep.(probably class 6 or 7 if they still use that this year)

All modern cars(1981 and up)basically compete "heads up" now.....who ever is the fastest wins modern overall.The class's and prep level is basically for "bragging rights" so some people will win something.

You need to go "big" now in modern class.I'm hoping the Evo II's weight advantage and HP/weight ratio will help out,as you have to be +/- 100LBS of the stock weight of the chassis.A EvoII at 2700LBS and.....hopefully.....300HP plus should be able to shake up the heavier modern cars.
 
Atmospheric dump. This isn't a track, they are on public roads and I bet that there are rules regarding decibel levels and emissions. Know the rule book inside and out. This would never pass tech at RA and I have reason to suspect it wouldn't fly here.

The RA rule on emissions is,....'a functional catalytic converter shall be installed...' w/ no mention if all gases have to pass thru it.

The RA soundcheck, allowable level is 105dB measured at a minimum of 2500RPM. So, your wastegate won't be open.
Rule also says, 'anti-lag system should be turned off during sound check'. My streetcar w/ atmospheric dump is no louder than a rotary or aggressive anti-lag program.

CARS rules, 86DB and engine at 3500RPM and functioning cat.

Aftermarket fuel rails: I would make sure that you won't have to cut the upper timing cover to make it fit after you add the fittings and lines

AEM rail with Bauscher Racing fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail mounted fuel pressure gauge with no cutting.

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Can you swap cams?
 
The RA rule on emissions is,....'a functional catalytic converter shall be installed...' w/ no mention if all gases have to pass thru it.


QUOTE]

I have been crewing for the last 3 years, managed and developed moving schedules and logistics, been involved in the buildup of a PGT and SP class car, and teched over 12 times.
You're wrong. All exhaust gasses must exit externally behind the codriver and driver, which is pretty much routing to the stock configuration. With this statement alone you are limited to route it back in.

A functional catalytic converter must be installed. I will tell you something after dealing with these folks multiple times, your debate and your interpretation will be determined incorrect, they have the final say and the Chief Scrutineer has the right to refuse any vehicle they see unfit of unsafe. They will tell you that the catalytic converter isn't fully functioning if all the exhaust gasses aren't passing through.

I am quite aware of the change in exhaust note with this mod, yeah it would pass at idle. But there isn't anything to debate at this point since this mod will never fly.
 
Cams are indeed free.Is there much gains there?

Yeah, common swaps are 262 or 274s.

Looking at you engine bay pic, do you still have the cruise control installed? Seems I see the extra cables. If so, you'll want to remove it for much better throttle feel (less slop) and less chance that throttle cable will break (you'll be removing the short cable from control box to throttle plate).

True story: I drove a Mitsu VR4 to a CARS rally (Voyaguers in Parry Sound Ontario) way before Mitsu was imported to Canada. The damn short cruise control cable snapped on me while at the rally. Also crashed in the rally and broke many ribs. Couldn't get a replacement cable and didn't want to rig a pull cable because I was so sore. So I tied the broken cable at 3/4 throttle and drove from northern Ontario to Washington, DC just by shifting and braking.

You have a extra mile of intercooler piping. Seems you ought to be able to put a J-pipe (Slowboy racing sells) on the turbo and run down and across behind radiator (need AC fan removed), then thru radiator support to passenger's side of intercooler. Then straightshot the piping on driver's side to the intake thru the hole where the piping you just removed came thru radiator support.

You got a closeup engine pic?
 
Hmmn, on second thought a 94 would have a 7bolt block so makes sense its a 2gen motor. Its the turbo and trans gears that are the Evo3 tasty upgrades for 1gen 4G63s which would be inter-changable anyway.

According to many, the 1st gen is the better block to have. 2nd gen was supposedly infamous for developing crankwalk. Don't know, never had one but have seen many 2nd gen cars w/ swaps for 1st gen motors. Also, lots more aftermarket parts available for 1st gen.

Add to your list a Evo3 turbo which would upgrade you from 60 mm to 68 mm. and still have decent spool for rallying, Evo3 exhaust manifold, Evo3 O2 sensor housing (possibly w/ atmospheric dump), 3 inch downpipe, AEM fuel rail since you are doing larger injectors and adjustable pressure regulator anyway, ..

92.5-94 7 bolts share more in common with 6 bolts than 2g 7 bolt motors
 
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Looking at you engine bay pic, do you still have the cruise control installed?
Seems you ought to be able to put a J-pipe (Slowboy racing sells) on the turbo and run down and across behind radiator (need AC fan removed),
You got a closeup engine pic?

She's JDM....no cruise control.

I'm keeping the AC.I was surprised to find the auto-climate control works perfect after a re-charge,so since I only have 100LBS to play with(under the rules)I'm leaving it as is.The system only weights about 40LBS and I've found AC to be worth it,in this type/length of rally.AC helps de-mist windows in our weather,plus keeps us comfortable on transits.

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Perhaps, relocate battery to trunk or behind seats for better engine access and weight distribution and add battery cut-off switch in reach of driver and codriver.
Relocate the ignition coil to near your power steering reservoir. This will allow an easy swap, easier checking of ignition wires and get it out of the heat inside the intake manifold. Aftermarket ignition wires.
Kevlar timing belt.
Aluminum radiator.
Remove exhaust manifold heatshield for better/quicker access/visibility to exhaust manifold/turbo.
 
Perhaps, relocate battery to trunk or behind seats for better engine access and weight distribution and add battery cut-off switch in reach of driver and codriver.

Already have a Taylor alum battery box for behind the seats,a Painless firewall pass-through and a cutoff switch.Not installed yet because I'm not sure of where to put it in relation to the cage.
 
I would keep the AC for places with odd weather


My MR2 turbo had no AC and after a humid rain couldn't see a damn thing




Id love to have my hands on a evo they come from the factory with what we upgrade to


Cams would pick up quit a bit of power but some low end and spool could be lost a bit.

But the extra power is worth it depending on what your looking for

I would keep the AC for places with odd weather


My MR2 turbo had no AC and after a humid rain couldn't see a damn thing




Id love to have my hands on a evo they come from the factory with what we upgrade to


Cams would pick up quit a bit of power but some low end and spool could be lost a bit.

But the extra power is worth it depending on what your looking for
 
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