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EVO 8 block 2G head

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Craig13

Proven Member
75
27
Mar 25, 2020
Surprise, Arizona
Alright guys, I really need some guidance here. When I purchased my car, unbenounced to me, it had at Evo 8 engine block with a 2G DSM head. The bearings are shot and a lot of the work was half assed so I am rebuilding. Where I am running into a problem is finding good info on whether this combo is even going to work well, will have longevity, and how to go forward with it. Pretty much all of the information I have found says one of two things. Either "don't do it, just do a 6 bolt" (which I completely agree with), or "it won't work because the EVO engine is mirrored and the cam gears will be on the wrong side of the engine". Well I am trying to stay on a fairly moderate budget and want to try to make what I have work, and the car did run when I purchased it albeit not well, so I know its possible to at least get that far. So here is where I currently stand:

-I know a 2G DSM head will bolt up to an Evo 8 block and the timing and such is the same.
-I do not know how to handle the differences in the oil and coolant passages between the block and head.
-I was never able to drive this car in boost or really under much power at all because it was in such rough shape so I don't know if this setup is even going to be able to drive normal.

Pretty much everything else has been sorted out already i.e. water pipe modification, timing, transmission mounting, turbo oil return line, etc. I just don't want to proceed with a rebuild on this block if it is doomed for failure. Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
 
Is it even possible to mount an Evo8 block in a turbo 2g frame without major modification? As far as I know, its impossible to run a 2g head on an Evo8 block. I suspect the guy was telling tales, friend.

Mind snapping some pics of the engine bay?
 
It mounts the same as the DSM block if you put ii in the orientation that the DSM has it. If you go look at my build profile there is photos of it on the build thread. I know they fit because I took it apart and I drove the car prior to taking it apart. It was just in such rough shape (vacuum leaks, fouled plugs, bad water pump, no alternator, etc.) that it never saw any boost or real loads.
 
I know the mivec evo 9 head bolts on to our 4gs so it’s possible. Plus I did see your photos earlier today as well OMG


The thread I read had modifications to oil passages only to accommodate the mivec. I don’t think you’ll have any issues since you have a 2g head and as long as you have good oil pressure.
 
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The 3g/Evo block will physically bolt to 1g/2g transmissions and accept much of the same hardware a 2g block does. The issue comes from differing block-to-trans alignment dowel locations and a missing bolt location on the 1g/2g trans bellhousing, calling into question strength/integrity.

Similarly, the heads can interchange on the block's as well, but I don't recall if the coolant ports are different. I do recall @JayRome welding some of his Evo head ports closed when he did the 8 head on a 1g block. Also I believe the oil drain back ports are different from 2.0 block's, 2.4 block's everything lines up. I actually have a Kia head (same as Evo) mocked up on a 6 bolt g4cs 2.4 on my shop right now.

IMHO, getting the appropriate block would be wisest, as it seems like an area you're not familiar with and will create problems during your rebuild. A 6 bolt is an option, but carries it's own special nuances when swapped into a 2g. A 2g 7 bolt seems the most prudent path as all kits/parts can be ordered as if the car was stock.
 
can you take a picture of block side and bellhousing i looked through your pictures but didn't see any of the mounting stuff. the two top bolts line up but side bolts and mount piont by the slave cylinder were different. about the only way to do it i thought was enlarge the trans side holes to line up and weld so stuff in to strengthen is that what they did?
 
The 3g/Evo block will physically bolt to 1g/2g transmissions and accept much of the same hardware a 2g block does. The issue comes from differing block-to-trans alignment dowel locations and a missing bolt location on the 1g/2g trans bellhousing, calling into question strength/integrity.

Similarly, the heads can interchange on the block's as well, but I don't recall if the coolant ports are different. I do recall @JayRome welding some of his Evo head ports closed when he did the 8 head on a 1g block. Also I believe the oil drain back ports are different from 2.0 block's, 2.4 block's everything lines up. I actually have a Kia head (same as Evo) mocked up on a 6 bolt g4cs 2.4 on my shop right now.

IMHO, getting the appropriate block would be wisest, as it seems like an area you're not familiar with and will create problems during your rebuild. A 6 bolt is an option, but carries it's own special nuances when swapped into a 2g. A 2g 7 bolt seems the most prudent path as all kits/parts can be ordered as if the car was stock.

The transmission that was in it is a 1996 GST Spyder trans. There were some modifications made to made it bolt up, and I am going to have to make some more. Rather that open up the holes, they simply cut the tabs off LOL. So I am going to look into getting a new trans or possibly having the tabs welded if possible? The trans isn't what I am concerned about at this point. The block and head are what I am currently wanting to sort out.

If would like to just get the appropriate block, but I am also somewhat limited on funds. I could do it, but it will take money from elsewhere on the car. I am also not looking to put down any crazy power. I will be happy with 300-350 at absolute most so a 7 bolt would be fine. But again, I don't want to spend more than I have to on the block itself. If I use a 2G head gasket would I even need to block off the extra holes on the block? I am not super familiar with oil and coolant passages in a block and dont want something that is going to eat through my head gasket if I don't block it off.
 
All those little issues that you're not sure of, I'm also not 100% on. Therefore it would be more in your favor to get the appropriate block and start with that. Also cutting tabs off of the transmission and/or engine block to fit something on that isn't supposed to go there, is a bad idea. There is a reason they have locator dowel pins. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of threads about clutch issues and most of them are from misadjustments, or transmission misalignments / lack of dowel pins or missing bolts.

Unless you are a very competent fabricator and up for a lot of custom work / troubleshooting, get the proper parts. If you really need a 7 volt block, I have one that should be rebuildable. You can PM me if you really need it.
 
Evo 8:
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90-99 DSM:
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Can you make it work? -Probably.
Should you? -Only if you don't cheap out on doing it right. The added transmission difficulties would make it a no answer for me. Buying a correct used block would be cheaper.
 
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