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2G Evo 3 drivetrain in 2g

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Are you sure about the clutch-type in the RS transmissions? I just had the axle out of my WQFE and it looked like the viscous-style CV. I was under the impression that the clutch-type diff was strictly an over-the-counter part.

It seems MD743362 is the 64-tooth open diff crown wheel, and MD743363 is the 64-tooth viscous crown wheel

2224 (GSR) shows *NO DATA* for the LSD assembly and MD743362 for ring gear - would be WQGE
2225 (RS) shows *NO DATA* for the LSD assembly and MD743362 for the ring gear - would be WQYE
2226 (RS) shows MD738900 for the LSD assembly and MD743363 for the ring gear - is WQFE
2227 (GSR) shows MD738900 for the LSD assembly and MD743363 for the ring gear - would be WQWE

The GSR and RS seemed to both have the same optional LSD assembly and ring gear.

A user on a Galant forum claims this is MD738900 from the catalog (it does look new and it's definitely a viscous) - http://img.galantvr4.org/116000/116397-0-0-0.jpg
http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB3&Number=941911&page=0&fpart=1
The catalog says RA734076S1 is the part number for the Ralliart LSD. Going through old catalogs, it seems that the Ralliart LSD was intended for the CA4A Mirage and was discontinued over 10 years ago.

The earliest GSR - 0001 - had a viscous LSD (MD738900) and MD743363 ring gear.
The earliest RS - 0009 - had an open diff and MD743362 ring gear.

The super early E1 box you've seen is indeed an anomaly. It would be nice to have the VIN of the car it came off of. There is a weird gap between 0013 and 0200, no data for these cars at all.

All Evo 2s I've checked are showing the same ring gear part numbers as Evo 1. The last Evo 2 GSR - 6582 - is showing MD743362, same with the last RS - 6565. The LSD cars are showing MD743363 (GSR 6562 and RS 6548). FWIW, I have a Ralliart LSD here with the 64-tooth open diff crown wheel on it, it came from an Evo 2.

The first Evo 3, an RS with the open diff, is showing MD744332 for the pinion, a 63-tooth gear.

There might be some confusion with VIN numbers. All Evo 1s are CD9A, all Evo 2s are CE9A-000xxxx and all Evo 3s are CE9A-010xxxx

Evo 1s were built - 10/1992 to 03/1993
Evo 2s were built - 01/1994 to 03/1994
Evo 3s were built - 01/1995 to 08/1995

I think the first 15 or so VINs for each generation were for factory usage and have odd build dates. VINs start at 0201 for production cars.
 
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I have seen WQFE's with both viscous and clutch type units, so it could have been definitely a factory option that the customer had installed. Typically though I have seen more clutch type units in WQFE's than viscous.

The pictures you have linked are definitely the A90 option viscous front diff that has the matching LSD front axle cup for it.

As for the super early evo 1 box, it was an open diff box and I didn't write down the model since it was a few years ago.
 
I have some experience with the front LSD diff needing the longer input shaft. On my own personal car when I first switched to an evo 2 trans it had the factory LSD. I wasnt aware there was a longer axle and just used the standard one. I drove the car 2-3 years like that. The axle only popped out twice. it snaps off the tip when this happens. then you have to replace the cup. later I acquired a second evo 1. that car came with the long axle cup. so when I resold that car a year later I switched the axle out so i would always have the long cup when i needed it. well that tuned out to be a problem in the other car. it was popping the axle out every month. I came up with a solution that worked quite well. I cut a section off a good axle and loosely attached this section to a standard length cup. they were joint by 8x1.25 threaded stud. this allowed the the stub section to reach the snap ring. it never popped out again. you can see the wear pattern on the splines how much engagment there is. it looses about 1/3. I was compfortable with 2/3 left to drive axle under power.

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top cup is the donor cup that I used for the stubby section. the middle cup is the good cup with stubby installed. I did this on a lathe but it can be done by hand with cut off wheel. the stubby doesnt have to be precision in any way. it fits loosely and can wiggle around on the threads.

I tried getting a longer cup from the UK first. it cost me 250 and the guy sent me a standard cup. he never made good on the mistake. this was from a dismantler so he knew what he was doing. I called the bigger driveshaft shops in the usa and found none. driveshaft shop says he can make the cup. he quoted me 350 some eight years ago now.
 
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I have a Evo 3 Tcase. I haven't ran it because I have a 2ga Trans but I heard it works with the 2gb Trans
 
Do I understand that right? I can use my stock 97 gsx tcase with this evo 3 transmission and stock dsm lsd diff with evo 3 diff ring and pinion?
you can use your stock tcase provided it is the 1.074 (they are often not original and you cant assume the replacement was correct ratio)
the second part of your question is confusing as there is no stock dsm lsd for dsm transmissions. what ratio rear end do you plan to run? dsm 3.54 or evo 3.3?
 
Do I understand that right? I can use my stock 97 gsx tcase with this evo 3 transmission and stock dsm lsd diff with evo 3 diff ring and pinion?
Yes, in your specific case if you have confirmed it is actually an Evo 3 specific transmission, then use a confirmed matching 1.074 ratio Evo 3 transfer case (29/27 teeth), and then the 3.909 rear diff ring and pinion.
I think the only part that might be off a little bit will be your speed sensor (for exact vehicle speed; check with a GPS program on a phone or alternate device) as you would need to remove the creme or pink colored plastic Evo 3 speed sensor and use your 97-99 transmission speed sensor.

As for the rear differential, yes, the Evo 1-9 ring and pinion directly swaps in to the rear differential housing and works with the carrier with zero modifications, other than confirming that your ring gear is installed properly and check backlash to see if any adjustments need to be made. You will need to replace the pinion seal (see part number below) as you will need to remove it to gain access to the outer pinion tapered roller bearing. You can reuse the pinion shaft nut if it is in good shape and the threads are not damaged. You can reuse the ring gear bolts if you are EXTREMELY GENTLE REMOVING -- use an impact tool and very gently loosen each ring gear bolt 1/4-1/2 of a turn, then loosen every one another full turn or two, then loosen every one another full turn or two until there is no resistance and remove fasteners, then you should tap the ring gear with a dead blow hammer, and it will come right off.

Clean all the parts thoroughly, including the threads and holes on the new ring gear to be installed. It should easily drop on to the differential without any issues and start every ring gear bolt to retain the gear on the differential first before tightening any of them. Fully seat the ring gear and make sure it is centered so that you do not damage the threads of the ring gear bolts. Tighten all the bolts down gently, hand tight is fine. Make sure the ring gear is fully seated. Remove the bolts one by one and use Loctite 242 / 243 or equivalent, and install to hand tight again, then torque to specification. (See factory service manual page 27-40, which is page 40 of the 58 page document linked here - (this is my google drive, you can have access to it).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Clean housing thoroughly and make sure the differential bearing saddle bolt holes are cleaned thoroughly. Blow clean before assembly. Install pinion gear and bearings with assembly lube (a tub of petroleum jelly mixed with 85w140 gear oil works well) using the existing pinion height shim (under the inner pinion tapered roller bearing against backside of pinion gear) and pinion bearing preload shim (that sits on top of the bearing spacer sleeve) and confirm pinion bearing preload first by installing the pinion flange, washer and locknut and tightening (1/2" impact works fine) and checking the turning torque before installing the pinion seal on final assembly. If the turning torque is smooth and easy then move on to next step, which is pinion height and differential backlash.

With installing the differential, make sure you have the proper tapered roller bearing races and shims per side. The bearing races are the same (so watch the wear pattern), but the shims are not the same so be sure to check where each one is located and mark them, writing down the measurement of all the shims before you move forward so if you need to adjust, you already have a starting point. Lubricate the bearing races, bearings, and bearing bores in the housing. Gently install differential WITH the bearing races and shims at the same time, evenly installing the whole assembly. You will likely need to use a flat punch and hammer to tap the shims down as you install the differential all the way, using a dead blow hammer to gently tap it in to place. Confirm shims and bearings are seated in to the housing, then install bearing caps to torque spec with the curved side facing outwards; you will see they look like this (] - [) . Install the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them to seat the bearings and shims. Before tightening to a torque spec, spin the differential and make sure that the ring gear is square to the pinion (I use a drill with the proper adapter and 27mm socket to slowly spin the pinion shaft). I would recommend using a dial indicator to check your measurements. If it spins extremely smooth with no binding or low / high spots, and zero runout of the differential ring gear, then check backlash to specification (see manual attached), then check contact pattern with assembly paint or set up dye and spin test both directions under load.

Once you get your differential finished with assembly and confirmed measurements, then do a final torque of bearing caps, then remove the pinion flange nut, washer and flange and gently install your new pinion seal. Reinstall pinion flange, washer and shaft nut and hold / tighten to torque spec or with 1/2" impact.

Reinstall differential cover (use Permatex Gear Oil RTV gasket maker ( https://www.permatex.com/products/g...matex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us ) with spreaded even amount on the differential housing, and install the differential cover and install cover bolts, hand tight evenly, then torque to specification evenly. Let RTV cure 24 hours.

Here are useful part numbers for rear differential rebuilding:
Rear Differential Side Tapered Roller Bearings MN168441
Pinion Inner Bearing MB393956
Pinion Outer Bearing MB393955 (facing pinion seal)
Rear Differential Axle Seals MD707184
Rear Differential Pinion Seal MB393929
Shim Set B - Pinion Bearing Preload MB185360
Shim Set C - Pinion Offset Height MB185350
Shim Set D - Differential Backlash MB241903
Fill Plug and Gasket MB001261
Drain Plug and Washer MB569390
Rear Diff End Nut MA143517
Rear Differential Cover Bolts MF244882
Rear Differential Cover Breather Bulb MB393530
LSD Case Machine Screws MB290419 (you can reuse if you are gentle removing)
Ring Gear Bolts MB092220 (BE EXTREMELY GENTLE REMOVING)

This should be enough for you to do the rear differential without further questions if you read the service manual thoroughly and take your time.

Good luck!

TMZ
 
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Why 3.3? I want to use 3.909 Evo 3 rear diff ratio on my stock dsm lsd rear diff. I want swap it to evo 3 diff ring and pinion?
It's been a minute but I only swapped the ring gear the pinion from what I remember I was the same everything and meshed perfectly.
Yes, in your specific case if you have confirmed it is actually an Evo 3 specific transmission, then use a confirmed matching 1.074 ratio Evo 3 transfer case (29/27 teeth), and then the 3.909 rear diff ring and pinion.
I think the only part that might be off a little bit will be your speed sensor (for exact vehicle speed; check with a GPS program on a phone or alternate device) as you would need to remove the creme or pink colored plastic Evo 3 speed sensor and use your 97-99 transmission speed sensor.

As for the rear differential, yes, the Evo 1-9 ring and pinion directly swaps in to the rear differential housing and works with the carrier with zero modifications, other than confirming that your ring gear is installed properly and check backlash to see if any adjustments need to be made. You will need to replace the pinion seal (see part number below) as you will need to remove it to gain access to the outer pinion tapered roller bearing. You can reuse the pinion shaft nut if it is in good shape and the threads are not damaged. You can reuse the ring gear bolts if you are EXTREMELY GENTLE REMOVING -- use an impact tool and very gently loosen each ring gear bolt 1/4-1/2 of a turn, then loosen every one another full turn or two, then loosen every one another full turn or two until there is no resistance and remove fasteners, then you should tap the ring gear with a dead blow hammer, and it will come right off.

Clean all the parts thoroughly, including the threads and holes on the new ring gear to be installed. It should easily drop on to the differential without any issues and start every ring gear bolt to retain the gear on the differential first before tightening any of them. Fully seat the ring gear and make sure it is centered so that you do not damage the threads of the ring gear bolts. Tighten all the bolts down gently, hand tight is fine. Make sure the ring gear is fully seated. Remove the bolts one by one and use Loctite 242 / 243 or equivalent, and install to hand tight again, then torque to specification. (See factory service manual page 27-40, which is page 40 of the 58 page document linked here -
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
(this is my google drive, you can have access to it).

Clean housing thoroughly and make sure the differential bearing saddle bolt holes are cleaned thoroughly. Blow clean before assembly. Install pinion gear and bearings with assembly lube (a tub of petroleum jelly mixed with 85w140 gear oil works well) using the existing pinion height shim (under the inner pinion tapered roller bearing against backside of pinion gear) and pinion bearing preload shim (that sits on top of the bearing spacer sleeve) and confirm pinion bearing preload first by installing the pinion flange, washer and locknut and tightening (1/2" impact works fine) and checking the turning torque before installing the pinion seal on final assembly. If the turning torque is smooth and easy then move on to next step, which is pinion height and differential backlash.

With installing the differential, make sure you have the proper tapered roller bearing races and shims per side. The bearing races are the same (so watch the wear pattern), but the shims are not the same so be sure to check where each one is located and mark them, writing down the measurement of all the shims before you move forward so if you need to adjust, you already have a starting point. Lubricate the bearing races, bearings, and bearing bores in the housing. Gently install differential WITH the bearing races and shims at the same time, evenly installing the whole assembly. You will likely need to use a flat punch and hammer to tap the shims down as you install the differential all the way, using a dead blow hammer to gently tap it in to place. Confirm shims and bearings are seated in to the housing, then install bearing caps to torque spec with the curved side facing outwards; you will see they look like this (] - [) . Install the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them to seat the bearings and shims. Before tightening to a torque spec, spin the differential and make sure that the ring gear is square to the pinion (I use a drill with the proper adapter and 27mm socket to slowly spin the pinion shaft). I would recommend using a dial indicator to check your measurements. If it spins extremely smooth with no binding or low / high spots, and zero runout of the differential ring gear, then check backlash to specification (see manual attached), then check contact pattern with assembly paint or set up dye and spin test both directions under load.

Once you get your differential finished with assembly and confirmed measurements, then do a final torque of bearing caps, then remove the pinion flange nut, washer and flange and gently install your new pinion seal. Reinstall pinion flange, washer and shaft nut and hold / tighten to torque spec or with 1/2" impact.

Reinstall differential cover (use Permatex Gear Oil RTV gasket maker ( https://www.permatex.com/products/g...matex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us ) with spreaded even amount on the differential housing, and install the differential cover and install cover bolts, hand tight evenly, then torque to specification evenly. Let RTV cure 24 hours.

Here are useful part numbers for rear differential rebuilding:
Rear Differential Side Tapered Roller Bearings MN168441
Pinion Inner Bearing MB393956
Pinion Outer Bearing MB393955 (facing pinion seal)
Rear Differential Axle Seals MD707184
Rear Differential Pinion Seal MB393929
Shim Set B - Pinion Bearing Preload MB185360
Shim Set C - Pinion Offset Height MB185350
Shim Set D - Differential Backlash MB241903
Fill Plug and Gasket MB001261
Drain Plug and Washer MB569390
Rear Diff End Nut MA143517
Rear Differential Cover Bolts MF244882
Rear Differential Cover Breather Bulb MB393530
LSD Case Machine Screws MB290419 (you can reuse if you are gentle removing)
Ring Gear Bolts MB092220 (BE EXTREMELY GENTLE REMOVING)

This should be enough for you to do the rear differential without further questions if you read the service manual thoroughly and take your time.

Good luck!

TMZ
On point as always!

(99) DSM EVO 1 3.909 rear end verified. - YouTube an old video on the matter

(99) DSM EVO 1 3.909 rear end verified. - YouTube
 
Yes, in your specific case if you have confirmed it is actually an Evo 3 specific transmission, then use a confirmed matching 1.074 ratio Evo 3 transfer case (29/27 teeth), and then the 3.909 rear diff ring and pinion.
I think the only part that might be off a little bit will be your speed sensor (for exact vehicle speed; check with a GPS program on a phone or alternate device) as you would need to remove the creme or pink colored plastic Evo 3 speed sensor and use your 97-99 transmission speed sensor.

As for the rear differential, yes, the Evo 1-9 ring and pinion directly swaps in to the rear differential housing and works with the carrier with zero modifications, other than confirming that your ring gear is installed properly and check backlash to see if any adjustments need to be made. You will need to replace the pinion seal (see part number below) as you will need to remove it to gain access to the outer pinion tapered roller bearing. You can reuse the pinion shaft nut if it is in good shape and the threads are not damaged. You can reuse the ring gear bolts if you are EXTREMELY GENTLE REMOVING -- use an impact tool and very gently loosen each ring gear bolt 1/4-1/2 of a turn, then loosen every one another full turn or two, then loosen every one another full turn or two until there is no resistance and remove fasteners, then you should tap the ring gear with a dead blow hammer, and it will come right off.

Clean all the parts thoroughly, including the threads and holes on the new ring gear to be installed. It should easily drop on to the differential without any issues and start every ring gear bolt to retain the gear on the differential first before tightening any of them. Fully seat the ring gear and make sure it is centered so that you do not damage the threads of the ring gear bolts. Tighten all the bolts down gently, hand tight is fine. Make sure the ring gear is fully seated. Remove the bolts one by one and use Loctite 242 / 243 or equivalent, and install to hand tight again, then torque to specification. (See factory service manual page 27-40, which is page 40 of the 58 page document linked here -
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
(this is my google drive, you can have access to it).

Clean housing thoroughly and make sure the differential bearing saddle bolt holes are cleaned thoroughly. Blow clean before assembly. Install pinion gear and bearings with assembly lube (a tub of petroleum jelly mixed with 85w140 gear oil works well) using the existing pinion height shim (under the inner pinion tapered roller bearing against backside of pinion gear) and pinion bearing preload shim (that sits on top of the bearing spacer sleeve) and confirm pinion bearing preload first by installing the pinion flange, washer and locknut and tightening (1/2" impact works fine) and checking the turning torque before installing the pinion seal on final assembly. If the turning torque is smooth and easy then move on to next step, which is pinion height and differential backlash.

With installing the differential, make sure you have the proper tapered roller bearing races and shims per side. The bearing races are the same (so watch the wear pattern), but the shims are not the same so be sure to check where each one is located and mark them, writing down the measurement of all the shims before you move forward so if you need to adjust, you already have a starting point. Lubricate the bearing races, bearings, and bearing bores in the housing. Gently install differential WITH the bearing races and shims at the same time, evenly installing the whole assembly. You will likely need to use a flat punch and hammer to tap the shims down as you install the differential all the way, using a dead blow hammer to gently tap it in to place. Confirm shims and bearings are seated in to the housing, then install bearing caps to torque spec with the curved side facing outwards; you will see they look like this (] - [) . Install the bearing cap bolts and hand tighten them to seat the bearings and shims. Before tightening to a torque spec, spin the differential and make sure that the ring gear is square to the pinion (I use a drill with the proper adapter and 27mm socket to slowly spin the pinion shaft). I would recommend using a dial indicator to check your measurements. If it spins extremely smooth with no binding or low / high spots, and zero runout of the differential ring gear, then check backlash to specification (see manual attached), then check contact pattern with assembly paint or set up dye and spin test both directions under load.

Once you get your differential finished with assembly and confirmed measurements, then do a final torque of bearing caps, then remove the pinion flange nut, washer and flange and gently install your new pinion seal. Reinstall pinion flange, washer and shaft nut and hold / tighten to torque spec or with 1/2" impact.

Reinstall differential cover (use Permatex Gear Oil RTV gasket maker ( https://www.permatex.com/products/g...matex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/?locale=en_us ) with spreaded even amount on the differential housing, and install the differential cover and install cover bolts, hand tight evenly, then torque to specification evenly. Let RTV cure 24 hours.

Here are useful part numbers for rear differential rebuilding:
Rear Differential Side Tapered Roller Bearings MN168441
Pinion Inner Bearing MB393956
Pinion Outer Bearing MB393955 (facing pinion seal)
Rear Differential Axle Seals MD707184
Rear Differential Pinion Seal MB393929
Shim Set B - Pinion Bearing Preload MB185360
Shim Set C - Pinion Offset Height MB185350
Shim Set D - Differential Backlash MB241903
Fill Plug and Gasket MB001261
Drain Plug and Washer MB569390
Rear Diff End Nut MA143517
Rear Differential Cover Bolts MF244882
Rear Differential Cover Breather Bulb MB393530
LSD Case Machine Screws MB290419 (you can reuse if you are gentle removing)
Ring Gear Bolts MB092220 (BE EXTREMELY GENTLE REMOVING)

This should be enough for you to do the rear differential without further questions if you read the service manual thoroughly and take your time.

Good luck!

TMZ

Thank you for this detailed answer! Great!
 
I want to increase the final drive in my car. Is it possible to just swap the front ring gear, transfercase, and rear ring gear with Evo 3 part numbers or is there anything else necessary?
 
Do I understand that right? I can use my stock 97 gsx tcase with this evo 3 transmission and stock dsm lsd diff with evo 3 diff ring and pinion?

Hey Guys, i could not purchase an W5M33-2-UPGE with evo 3 diff ring and pinion. I bought W5M332UPWE Evo3 Tranny with front lsd. i miss the rear diff parts and the front lsd cups.

I want to build in the evo3 tranny my dsm 58 tooth front diff, my center diff and my dsm output shaft and use my dsm rear diff with 1.074 t-case. Is it possible?

Is it correct, that the final drive is longer as an stock evo 3? Does somebody use this combination?

Best regards

Marcel
 
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