Canadian_CD9A
Supporting Member
- 1,086
- 865
- Feb 10, 2012
-
Winnipeg,
MB_Canada
I noticed I had no build thread here, time to change that.
As some of you know, the Evo 1-3 is very similar to a 2g DSM. Same 7-bolt (minor differences), similar electronics, W5M33 transmission (way better gear ratios though!)...most of the stuff that fits a DSM will fit an Evo. This makes modifying bearable, especially for the engine that I'll most certainly blow up soon.
I bought my car wrecked with 25,000 miles on it, the first owner in Canada had it for about 2 weeks and put it into a curb. It was completely trashed..when I first drove it home, it was a blizzard in rush hour. It was my first time driving RHD, I had bald summer tires, a cracked rim, no 2nd or 3rd gear and the transmission sounded like it was going to die. There was no interior, no sound deadening, a roll cage and a racing seat that was made for a 120lb Japanese guy. It demanded alertness from the moment I started. The chassis is SUPER clean, however, so anything wrong with it just gets replaced.
When I got it - it cost me $2200:
Shortly after - new paint, new wheels, new tires, same sick 4x4 stance.
I autocrossed it somewhat successfully for 3 years, but blew the struts, every bushing, turbo oil seals, clutch, pretty much everything that wears out needed replacing. Keep in mind this thing has about 30,000 miles on it now.
It has gone 12.39 @ 110 in temps that were just above freezing (1.9 60' on corded RE-01Rs), the mod list was pretty short when I did that.
I don't even want to calculate the amount of money I have in it, I could have bought something way nicer. However, now that it's almost done, I feel enormously confident in what it's capable of. I'm hoping the weight stays under 2600lbs, hoping for about 375whp/375wtq with its current turbo, maybe a high 10 quarter mile and a circuit racing beast. I set it up for autocross, but it would probably be at home just about anywhere.
Pics after most recent teardown & rebuild:
Toda Fightex dampers - 12k springs all around
Mod List:
Powertrain:
-Forced Performance FP68HTA turbocharger
-Ported turbine housing & 34mm flapper valve
-Holset wastegate actuator
-Forced Performance Race Manifold
-TPP blanket for FP Race Manifold
-PTP blanket for TD05H turbine housing
-OEM Evo III o2 housing
-A'Pexi 2.5" downpipe
-High flow catalytic converter
-A'Pexi N1 catback exhaust
-RTM Racing driveshaft hanger bushings
-ARC Intercooler & piping
-HKS-RS Intake Pipe
-A'Pexi Filter Kit
-Homebrew airbox
-HKS SSQV blow-off valve, recirculated
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Socketed & chipped ECU
-FIC 660cc fuel injectors
-ACT 2600 Xtreme Clutch Kit
-Ralliart motor mounts (4)
-Ralliart north/south crossmember mounts (8)
-Factory front LSD
Suspension:
-17x7 +35 Kosei K1-TS wheels
-215/45R17 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tires
-Toda Racing Fightex Type DA-G coilovers (12k/12k springs)
-Evo III front subframe for more track
-Loki Fabrication lower control arms with extended balljoint
-Loki Fabrication tie rods with spherical bearings
-Ralliart front control arm bushings (2)
-Whiteline caster-adding control arm bushings (2)
-D&D Performance rear lower control arms
-Whiteline 20mm rear sway bar
-Ralliart trailing arm bushings
-Megan Racing camber & toe arms with spherical bearings
-Ralliart differential mount bushings (4)
-Ralliart strut tower bars
-Ultra Racing door braces
-SuperPro steering rack bushings
Brakes:
-Wilwood Superlite 12.2" brake kit with 2-piece rotors (front)
-Carbotech XP8 brake pads (front & rear)
-Volvo S40 rotors (rear)
-Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
-Cusco brake stopper brace
Interior:
-Sparco Ring steering wheel
-Bride Ergo I racing seat
-Bride seat rail
-Blitz SBC i-D boost controller & Power Meter
-Autogage oil temp, oil pressure, water temp gauges
-Razo pedals
-C's Racing short shifter
-Tegiwa shifter extension
-Ralliart shift knob
-RTM Racing brass shifter bushings (transmission end)
-RTM Racing brass shifter bushings (shifter end)
-Cusco HyperGum shifter base bushings
Even with the best parts picked together, I ran into silly issues from my combination that has never really been tried. Example - after fully replacing my front suspension with (rare and expensive) Ralliart bushings, I found that my front wheels were way back in the wheelwells. The Evo III had a wider track and longer wheelbase than the Evo I - since I had the Evo III front subframe, I figured all would be well. Long story short, the Evo III gets its wider track from the subframe, but the longer wheelbase from its control arms. My arms are modified Evo I arms, so I had to address this problem somehow. I had Whiteline caster-adjusting bushings imported and installed - and was aghast when they REDUCED the wheelbase and made my tire rubbing issue so much more painful. The shop that installed them put them in backwards, so that had to be redone. The alignment has never been right since then.
The car had issues like crazy; the tune sucked, the alignment was never right, it has suspension hardware issues, the transmission isn't happy, the brake pedal did nothing for the first 50% of travel after driving hard. It has been an absolute nightmare getting to this point; anything that can go wrong, has. The brakes were gone for weeks of machining, and "simple fixes" are never simple.
Car weight with me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. It's 2554 lbs. without me.
Filthy.
Finally racing!
Blew off a charge pipe on my first run and got pushed across the finish line. Didn't figure it out until I limped it back home. This was a bad, bad day.
This covers to the end of 2014.
As some of you know, the Evo 1-3 is very similar to a 2g DSM. Same 7-bolt (minor differences), similar electronics, W5M33 transmission (way better gear ratios though!)...most of the stuff that fits a DSM will fit an Evo. This makes modifying bearable, especially for the engine that I'll most certainly blow up soon.
I bought my car wrecked with 25,000 miles on it, the first owner in Canada had it for about 2 weeks and put it into a curb. It was completely trashed..when I first drove it home, it was a blizzard in rush hour. It was my first time driving RHD, I had bald summer tires, a cracked rim, no 2nd or 3rd gear and the transmission sounded like it was going to die. There was no interior, no sound deadening, a roll cage and a racing seat that was made for a 120lb Japanese guy. It demanded alertness from the moment I started. The chassis is SUPER clean, however, so anything wrong with it just gets replaced.
When I got it - it cost me $2200:
Shortly after - new paint, new wheels, new tires, same sick 4x4 stance.
I autocrossed it somewhat successfully for 3 years, but blew the struts, every bushing, turbo oil seals, clutch, pretty much everything that wears out needed replacing. Keep in mind this thing has about 30,000 miles on it now.
It has gone 12.39 @ 110 in temps that were just above freezing (1.9 60' on corded RE-01Rs), the mod list was pretty short when I did that.
I don't even want to calculate the amount of money I have in it, I could have bought something way nicer. However, now that it's almost done, I feel enormously confident in what it's capable of. I'm hoping the weight stays under 2600lbs, hoping for about 375whp/375wtq with its current turbo, maybe a high 10 quarter mile and a circuit racing beast. I set it up for autocross, but it would probably be at home just about anywhere.
Pics after most recent teardown & rebuild:
Toda Fightex dampers - 12k springs all around
Mod List:
Powertrain:
-Forced Performance FP68HTA turbocharger
-Ported turbine housing & 34mm flapper valve
-Holset wastegate actuator
-Forced Performance Race Manifold
-TPP blanket for FP Race Manifold
-PTP blanket for TD05H turbine housing
-OEM Evo III o2 housing
-A'Pexi 2.5" downpipe
-High flow catalytic converter
-A'Pexi N1 catback exhaust
-RTM Racing driveshaft hanger bushings
-ARC Intercooler & piping
-HKS-RS Intake Pipe
-A'Pexi Filter Kit
-Homebrew airbox
-HKS SSQV blow-off valve, recirculated
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Socketed & chipped ECU
-FIC 660cc fuel injectors
-ACT 2600 Xtreme Clutch Kit
-Ralliart motor mounts (4)
-Ralliart north/south crossmember mounts (8)
-Factory front LSD
Suspension:
-17x7 +35 Kosei K1-TS wheels
-215/45R17 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec tires
-Toda Racing Fightex Type DA-G coilovers (12k/12k springs)
-Evo III front subframe for more track
-Loki Fabrication lower control arms with extended balljoint
-Loki Fabrication tie rods with spherical bearings
-Ralliart front control arm bushings (2)
-Whiteline caster-adding control arm bushings (2)
-D&D Performance rear lower control arms
-Whiteline 20mm rear sway bar
-Ralliart trailing arm bushings
-Megan Racing camber & toe arms with spherical bearings
-Ralliart differential mount bushings (4)
-Ralliart strut tower bars
-Ultra Racing door braces
-SuperPro steering rack bushings
Brakes:
-Wilwood Superlite 12.2" brake kit with 2-piece rotors (front)
-Carbotech XP8 brake pads (front & rear)
-Volvo S40 rotors (rear)
-Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
-Cusco brake stopper brace
Interior:
-Sparco Ring steering wheel
-Bride Ergo I racing seat
-Bride seat rail
-Blitz SBC i-D boost controller & Power Meter
-Autogage oil temp, oil pressure, water temp gauges
-Razo pedals
-C's Racing short shifter
-Tegiwa shifter extension
-Ralliart shift knob
-RTM Racing brass shifter bushings (transmission end)
-RTM Racing brass shifter bushings (shifter end)
-Cusco HyperGum shifter base bushings
Even with the best parts picked together, I ran into silly issues from my combination that has never really been tried. Example - after fully replacing my front suspension with (rare and expensive) Ralliart bushings, I found that my front wheels were way back in the wheelwells. The Evo III had a wider track and longer wheelbase than the Evo I - since I had the Evo III front subframe, I figured all would be well. Long story short, the Evo III gets its wider track from the subframe, but the longer wheelbase from its control arms. My arms are modified Evo I arms, so I had to address this problem somehow. I had Whiteline caster-adjusting bushings imported and installed - and was aghast when they REDUCED the wheelbase and made my tire rubbing issue so much more painful. The shop that installed them put them in backwards, so that had to be redone. The alignment has never been right since then.
The car had issues like crazy; the tune sucked, the alignment was never right, it has suspension hardware issues, the transmission isn't happy, the brake pedal did nothing for the first 50% of travel after driving hard. It has been an absolute nightmare getting to this point; anything that can go wrong, has. The brakes were gone for weeks of machining, and "simple fixes" are never simple.
Car weight with me in it and 1/4 tank of gas. It's 2554 lbs. without me.
Filthy.
Finally racing!
Blew off a charge pipe on my first run and got pushed across the finish line. Didn't figure it out until I limped it back home. This was a bad, bad day.
This covers to the end of 2014.
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