- Jun 3, 2003
You drove the car on track a long time ago I think. Besides resto, were you going to use it in motorsports again?
The car is becoming a trophy build but I intend to, yes. The spec would be a lot of fun on track or around cones, and probably fast enough to get kicked off the drag strip. Parts were chosen to make it fast anywhere, but just barely passable that it would be pleasant on the street.You drove the car on track a long time ago I think. Besides resto, were you going to use it in motorsports again?
See it's not all doomed and glommed after all. HahaI appreciate the support, thank you. The gears are all sourced as of this morning after squeezing my contacts, we’ll slowly trudge forward. Hubs/sliders are no problem, rails/forks look to be a done deal soon. All of the bearings and synchros come up as available from Mitsubishi. It’s going to be nearly all new, and hopefully just a sliver better than what I would have built before. Tim is building me a damn transmission some day .
Yeah, that was me. I don't know of an Evo 3 first gear that is absolutely available, but I can look around. I might have a spare Evo 1 first gear, but that's not going to help you if you don't have the Evo 1 input shaft.Wasn't it you I bought the 35/65 Cusco from 5 or 6 years back? I'd never seen this thread before, good stuff, got a sinking feeling when you said your trans was at Tim's, don't give up.
I still haven't put the dif in yet, but after my built trans stripped out 2nd gear, I'm looking for a replacement Evo 3 first gear, you willing to set me up with your contact?
Yeah, my input shaft is trashed too, I'm not familiar enough with Evo 1 vs Evo3 to know if they are compatible. Plus, you probably should hold on to your spare.was
Yeah, that was me. I don't know of an Evo 3 first gear that is absolutely available, but I can look around. I might have a spare Evo 1 first gear, but that's not going to help you if you don't have the Evo 1 input shaft.
They're not compatible, unfortunately. The input shaft is the toughest piece out of all of them to get, I'd be more worried about that than anything else. Myself, I prefer the Evo 1 input/1/2 combination with longer 1st and 2nd gears, which turns it into a closer ratio box (2.571 1st, compared to 2.750 and 1.600 2nd, compared to 1.684) and would be the best option for a 16G car that autocrosses when paired with the 3.909 rear diff ratio combination. There is a user here that has an Evo 1 RS box without LSD; it sustained some damage, but should have many useable parts, including the input shaft and gear set. Or, you could throw the Tarmac into it and it should make a complete, functional transmission. I'm sure he'll make himself known if someone shows interest.Yeah, my input shaft is trashed too, I'm not familiar enough with Evo 1 vs Evo3 to know if they are compatible. Plus, you probably should hold on to your spare.
I will have billet steel shift rail ends to replace the nla mitsu forged steel evo ones. I'm going to try and get one in my summit project for testing if the timeline works out so I should have them spring time. If not i will be summer time before I can test in my talon.I appreciate the support, thank you. The gears are all sourced as of this morning after squeezing my contacts, we’ll slowly trudge forward. Hubs/sliders are no problem, rails/forks look to be a done deal soon. All of the bearings and synchros come up as available from Mitsubishi. It’s going to be nearly all new, and hopefully just a sliver better than what I would have built before. Tim is building me a damn transmission some day .
I saw you had the 1/2, but you’re developing the 3/4 and 5/R as well? One of the 5/R part numbers for Evo still shows as available from Mitsubishi if you need one for the design phase. This would be really handy, the platform is going to need them.I will have billet steel shift rail ends to replace the nla mitsu forged steel evo ones. I'm going to try and get one in my summit project for testing if the timeline works out so I should have them spring time. If not i will be summer time before I can test in my talon.
Derp, that'll teach me to surf the forum while working. Rails are even more useful - a set of forks could be put together with your 1/2, the Magnus 3/4 and OEM 5/R. I'm not going to settle for the weak DSM stuff, I'd go with used Evo stuff first. I'd be up for a set.Not the forks, the rail ends. And yes I do have billet aluminum 1/2 shift forks. If you don't have the evo steel ones, I strongly reccomend the billet one. When the stock cast aluminum one breaks it usually breaks the case too, and the cases don't weld good. I'm gonna have a billet replacement case soon too, but you are not gonna like the price of that.
So I've heard. I'll order up a 5th gear fork while it's still available, please make it more public when you come out with the rails and 3/4. I somehow didn't even know about your 1/2 fork until the TMZ benefit auction.I'll have 3/4 shift forks soon too . The magnus ones kinda suck, the roll pin hole is drilled in the wrong spot
I have an odd update that crosses over into 420A territory, so I guess it's fair game here.I’ll be moving (again) to a more expensive city, and my first project when I get back is to dust off my 1998 Plymouth Neon ACR. It’s 1 of 52 ACR coupes in this color for 1998, I paid $225 for it at a salvage auction in 2010 and saved it from the scrapper. It was bad.
I have only driven my automatic Infiniti G37X tank for the past few years, and since the Evo is nowhere near done, this is the right answer to get me in a fun car again.
Clutch (ordered from RockAuto, $42!!)
Clutch cable (ordered)
Engine coolant pipes (ordered) and cooling system overhaul
Mild rebuild on the 2.0 DOHC, basically timing belt and head gasket job
And a bunch of odd jobs to make it useable daily
I already have a new set of Koni struts, 14:1 steering rack and poly bushings on the car, it handled quite well. The interior was done and looks really nice, just needs an audio upgrade.
With a few minor upgrades, basically to STS autocross spec, it should be a fun 135whp car to boot around in while I gather the funds to continue on the Evo. I can’t tell you how nice it is finding needed parts in junkyards, and I can’t believe how low the prices are on fixing this thing.
Can't tell if it's trashed but the 2gb body parts would sell. 2gb talon front bumper and side strakes.I have an odd update that crosses over into 420A territory, so I guess it's fair game here.
I haven't been to a junkyard in forever with my second life, so while in town for the holidays, I hit the Chrysler section of the local U-pull to get some cheap 2.7L rockers for the Neon, intending to keep it to reliability mods and basic, cheap breathing upgrades. I managed to find a useable set after picking the front bank of two 2.7L V6 Sebrings (or something), and caught what looked like a DSM in a snowbank at the end of the line. Well, that's how you get my attention. It's either a 4G63 car may have fun stuff in it, or it's a 420A car and it's got the pretty "2.0L DOHC" valve cover that I can use for arts & crafts.
This car sucked. It was under a foot of snow, the body was trash, it had ugly ass wheels and bald tires, it had rust cut out on the quarters, the shock towers were rotten beyond belief, the interior was fully stripped and just thrown back in. It was an abysmally failed project. And there sat the lowly 420A.
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I unearthed it and noticed that someone already took the manifold and cam gears off of it, chopping the timing belt. Odd. The valve cover came off without a fight, and I saw something verrrry strange underneath.
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You're probably thinking what I'm thinking. Why does a stock 420A DSM have titanium retainers? It was at this time I noticed that the cams were quite shiny, not the crummy cast look of stock cams. I pulled the cams and went home for the day, since I didn't have the tools to finish the job. BC0167 Stage 2 N/A 420A cams from BC. Score!
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I was worried that the car was going to be scrapped while I was gone, since it was just about the longest tenured car on the lot and nobody seemed to care about it. I was prepared to take an extended weekend to pull a whole motor if necessary. I got back in the morning, argued with the car for a few more hours (not fun in a snowbank), and pulled the head. Stock pistons. Stock everything. What a weird car.
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I got the cylinder head back to home base and took a good look at it. I couldn't believe what I had pulled. I see the springs & titanium retainers, new 2.0 style lifters & rockers (bad choice, but nice), aftermarket stainless steel valves, ARP studs and FULL PROFESSIONAL PORTING! HOLY S**T!!!!
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So, for the low, low price of $105.00 CAD ($78.07 USD), I now have one of the baddest 420A heads I've ever seen, plus some ARP studs, 2.7L rockers and a 420A valve cover that I can paint. The problem, though - the Neon's intake & exhaust sides are switched relative to the 420A. I can't use this head on my car. I can use the cams (with modification), the valves, the springs/retainers, the studs, and it would go HARD on a well-supported 2.0L Neon (180whp, 7,500+ RPM woodchuck buzzbomb!), but I can't use the nice ported head. And it would almost be a shame to cannibalize it for my purposes. I would've been happy stock, I would be really happy with a built/ported Neon head, but I really don't know what to do here.
The bumper was pretty trash and I didn't see any of the side trim. Nobody wants to pay shipping on a bumper from my neck of the woods, either...Can't tell if it's trashed but the 2gb body parts would sell. 2gb talon front bumper and side strakes.
Fifth gear pair
½ Hub & sleeve
¾ Hub & sleeve
Front diff pinion