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2G Euro 97‘ GS Manual. Car starts but won’t move.

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MitchDSM

Probationary Member
14
1
Aug 8, 2018
Cuxhaven, Germany, Europe
Hello guys. I got a problem with my 2g. I’ve got a 97’ 2G with a 4g63 manual transmission. I was driving on the Autobahn when my car startet to rev in gear but slowed down. I made it to a parking lot and tried to drive off again but it would just rev but not move. So I towed it home and changed the flywheel, pressure plate and the bearing. I bleed the clutch too. But now my problem still remains. If I put it in gear, I can spin my wheels without any resistance. Does anyone know what it could be?
 
You also have no profile. Please post a profile so we're familiar with the car. What were you doing at the time? Cruising? WOT? Any previous symptoms?
 
If its awd it could have burnt up the center diff or viscous coupling.
He is a gs so no awd here. Just 4G63 NA

Revving in gear while driving with load shows signes of a bad clutch disc! That's what you will need to change bit you mention everything else being changed BUT the disc? Why so?

Even if it looks good you might of torched it and glazed the surface or the previous owner perhaps if you not had it long as they need a break in period.

Are you getting ANY friction from it at all?
 
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Oh I forgot to mention that I changed the disk also.
The car was just used in cruising. But to be honest I don’t know what the previous owner did to it. All I know is that he had to do some work on the transmission as well. And one of my CV Axles broke. In a bit I will upload the video of the clutch fork and slave while pressing the clutch pedal.

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A broken CV joint wont help situations no, best bet is to go over the entire chassis, renew a few things and check bits out and replace what you feel light be a problem. CV joints breaking is not that normal on a normal road car so they either ran that dry and never looked after the car!

And that's the problem with most DSM issues! Its always owner issues of lack of maintenance and its why they need a normal car to live with not something like a DSM where maintenance is key and now hard to find and expensive parts etc
 
Yep sadly it’s true. That’s why I want to replace everything that broke or looked worn out, before I drive it on the street again. It can be noticed that the car was neglected for a looooong time. But luckily there isn’t much rust on it.
 
Oh I forgot to mention that I changed the disk also.
The car was just used in cruising. But to be honest I don’t know what the previous owner did to it. All I know is that he had to do some work on the transmission as well. And one of my CV Axles broke. In a bit I will upload the video of the clutch fork and slave while pressing the clutch pedal.

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This is your problem. Fwd has an open diff. If one side has no resistance like this, car will not move. It will just spin this broken axle.
 
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This is your problem. Fwd has an open diff. If one side has no resistance like this, car will not move. It will just spin this broken axle.
Sorry I’m no mechanic but does it mean that even on jack stands if the car is for example in first or second gear the wheel with the good axle does not have resistance if I try to turn it by hand trying to simulate forward movement?

So basically what I did was putting the car on 4 jack stands so that no wheel is touching the ground. I did all the work on the clutch. Put everything back together except for the broken CV (Waiting for the new one to arrive). And then I tried “simulating movement” by turning the wheel with the good CV to the left to see if there is any resistance, which there was none. But I noticed that the part of the broken CV in the diff turning the opposite direction. So to my understanding is if I put the new CV in it should be ok?

But how does the other side have no resistance if it is on jack stands? Thanks for explaining it. I would like to learn more about that subject.

Every reply is helpful
 
Sorry I’m no mechanic but does it mean that even on jack stands if the car is for example in first or second gear the wheel with the good axle does not have resistance if I try to turn it by hand trying to simulate forward movement?
Kind of doesn't matter if it's up in the air.
So basically what I did was putting the car on 4 jack stands so that no wheel is touching the ground. I did all the work on the clutch. Put everything back together except for the broken CV (Waiting for the new one to arrive). And then I tried “simulating movement” by turning the wheel with the good CV to the left to see if there is any resistance, which there was none. But I noticed that the part of the broken CV in the diff turning the opposite direction. So to my understanding is if I put the new CV in it should be ok?
Yes. Install the axle. Quite frankly you may not have even needed a clutch if you're saying you had a completely broken axle.
But how does the other side have no resistance if it is on jack stands? Thanks for explaining it. I would like to learn more about that subject.

Every reply is helpful
 
Hello there Party people,

So my CV just arrived and the car drives now. But now I got another problem. My speedometer won’t show my speed. I checked the connector if it’s plugged in. And it does. Does anyone know what it could be?
 
Hello there Party people,

So my CV just arrived and the car drives now. But now I got another problem. My speedometer won’t show my speed. I checked the connector if it’s plugged in. And it does. Does anyone know what it could be?
My galant has the same issue but it’s off and on. Some days it’ll work and some days it won’t. I’ve replaced the VSS and the connector but it still happens. Recently went on a trip and it started working again after cruising in 5th gear for a few minutes
 
Sometimes when working on tb area coolant lines while removing them coolant will drip down onto this sensor and connector. Not saying this is your issue but the one time I had issues with mine after I replaced the tb gasket.Take the connector off and clean the inside of it and your sensor side.

It’s a good/free place to start and make sure you have your metal safety/retaining clip installed.

-Daniel
 
Sometimes when working on tb area coolant lines while removing them coolant will drip down onto this sensor and connector. Not saying this is your issue but the one time I had issues with mine after I replaced the tb gasket.Take the connector off and clean the inside of it and your sensor side.

It’s a good/free place to start and make sure you have your metal safety/retaining clip installed.

-Daniel
Ah ok i will try this tomorrow. Maybe it helps. To be honest I didn’t check the connector and the sensor if there is any rust or fluid on the contacts. Since the car was just standing for a while it might be the solution.
 
Alright Gentleman. I found the Issue of the speedometer. The engine mount on the back just broke and while accelerating it snapped and broke the part where the screw goes through. So the vibration made it move out of the gearbox sometimes. But now I got another issue…. My tank indicator doesn’t move. I thought that maybe it got stuck so I went and took out the fuel pump but nothing changed. Not even the red indicator for no fuel goes on. Any ideas?
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If you ground out the wire at the sending unit that is the signal for the dash your gauge should either go to the full mark or completely empty I can’t recall which it will be currently. This is an easy way to ensure the wire from the sending unit to the dash is not compromised. If it goes to completely empty the low fuel light should illuminate as well.

-Daniel
 
If you ground out the wire at the sending unit that is the signal for the dash your gauge should either go to the full mark or completely empty I can’t recall which it will be currently. This is an easy way to ensure the wire from the sending unit to the dash is not compromised. If it goes to completely empty the low fuel light should illuminate as well.

-Daniel
Yes I will try that. I was reading some post here about the same problem. The suggested to ground the yellow one. That should make the needle go to full
 
Stick a multi meter set to ohms on the signal on the sending unit and move the sending unit in smooth full sweep. See if the ohms move consistently while you manually move the float.

Make sure the contacts on the actually sending unit in the tank are clean and are making good contact with each other.

-Daniel
 
Stick a multi meter set to ohms on the signal on the sending unit and move the sending unit in smooth full sweep. See if the ohms move consistently while you manually move the float.

Make sure the contacts on the actually sending unit in the tank are clean and are making good contact with each other.

-Daniel
I will try that. Now that I fixed all the mechanical problems I got some electrical issues to deal with. I just drove my neighborhood up and down and my wife noticed that the reverse light don’t light up. They just blink while going into reverse gear. They go on at half way down into the gear. Soon as I’m in full gear it goes out again. So I need to check that as well. Sorry to annoy you guys with so many questions. I want to restore the car a good as possible while learning to fix my own stuff
 
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