Engine Update #2 *WITH PICS*

[bkblazen2003]

All right, here is the official review. This is gonna be long, so if you dont like to read STOP NOW!

The Story:
I stoped by transonic racing around 7pm last night. The car was getting the custom brackets made for coil packs and battery powerdercoated red to match the car (they look very nice btw). After installing the coil pack and double checking everything we cranked her up. The noise was intolerable. The lifters made a horrible racket and the new intake added to the loudness. We let the car warm up to normal operating temp so the fans would kick on (wanted to make sure they worked). After this, brandon (owner of transonic) took the car out for a quick spin. He came back and pulled it back in the shop. The oil was drained, oil filter removed, and new products were added. The lifters had quieted but the ecu still hadnt decided what the hell was going on.

The clutch pedal was soft and engaged about 3 inches from the floor. The idle was all over the place and still is. I left transonic around 10:30 and headed to the gas station. The tank was allmost empty from the last fill up 2 months ago. Brandon advocates a harsh break in because he says they run stronger and longer after that (not the clutch, the engine). So instead of babying it I took it up to redline a couple of times. To my dismay the damn thing wouldnt get up and move. Granted I thought that with all the shit, cams, manifold, intake, pullies, balance shaft removed, that it would have more pull than in stock form. I WAS WRONG.

Driving Impressions:
It has no torque, less than stock easily. It does "pull" all the way to 7K, and it seems my optimal range is now from 4k and above. The engine makes the most power past 5k to 7k and when it is up there I will admit it sounds like a beast. Its allmost sounds like vtec on a honda kicking in when it hits 5k. The sound of the engine changes and the show starts. I am betting the cams are to thank for whatever power is left.

There are no negative effects from the underdrive pully. The amp and stereo pump it out just like before with no diming of lights, etc. The A/C runs fine and doesnt bog the car more than normal.

So just what the hell is wrong?
Well this morning I took the car for a short 3 mile jaunt around the town. It does seem to be making more power now than last night. I still have only put on 4.5miles since I left transonic. I am going out tonight to put some miles on her and hopefully get the ecu thinking correctly.

I am allmost positive that the intake manifold is to blame. We checked to make sure the tb was opening all the way and it is. The manifold was made for boost and it was a mistake to put it on. To switch it back would be a massive pain but it might be needed. Our (transonic and I) hypothesis is this: We are getting more than adequate air flow into the engine, but it isnt moving out of the engine fast enough with the stock header and stock exhaust system.

So what the hell am I going to do?
The first course of action would be to stay all motor. If I choose this route the upgrade path over the next month will consist of the following:
- Punishment Racing Header
- Punishment Racing Intake MAFT
- Magnaflow 2.25" High Flow Cat
- Remus "O2" Twin tip muffler
- Custom 2.25" piping
- ECU+ Engine Managment

The goal obviously here is to get the chamber to clear faster and flow more efficently. However, we dont see this as making up for the torque problems currently incountered. Other options discussed were a stroker kit and high compression pistons which would definatly help but would cost a pretty penny.

The other evil option
Brandon and I were staring at the engine thinking of ways to get it to be relativly fast. He suggested the evil word that I dispise hearing... TURBO. After discussion I began to come around to the idea of putting one on. It would be more or less reliable (at low boost levels that i would run) and put the cams and intake manifold to good use. If this option is pursued the upgrade path over the next month would look like this:
- 14B or T25 turbo
- Greddy E-Manage
- All misc parts for turbo...
- Upgraded pistons or piston rings (not sure if this is needed to run 6-7psi)

The total w/install would be around 1000.00 which seems pretty fair. I never thought I would consider this, but I actually am. Driving my car now is depressing and has me thinking why oh why did I spend so much money on it to get these horrible results.

One thing I would like to point out is that the car would be MUCH faster with a stock intake manifold so if you are reading this in the future thinking of modding your car as I have you will get great results... just leave your intake manifold alone!!!

Anyway, that is my impression and review of the install. I will keep you updated as to my decision.

if your jdm engine is a turbo model , it can be the cause of you problems. the tubo motor has lower compression. not by much but it still is lower. so if you take a turbo motor and use it as a non tubo you will be much slower than a stock non turbo car.

 

[Daedalus]

no its not a jdm turbo motor. the loss was due to the intake manifold plain and simple. I mean, its a 2L Plenum for gods sake.

 

[na90dsm]

the cyclone intake needs to have both runners open constant for any hp gains from the stock american 1g intake manifold, and even the the gains are a few cfm through each port.


if needed i have a few spare n/t intake manifolds froma 1g i can throw you oen if you need it

also run 10:0:1 pistons form magnus instead of the 11:0:1. 11:0:1 is hgh and risky. go a little milder and youll be a lot happier. youd onlybe able to run 93 octane or above on 11:0:1 and then if you put nitrous youd need race gas. 10-1 leaves a little flexability.

 

[talons95]

The car has been sold along with alot of his parts. Something had popped off that had to do with the oil lines or something of that nature?Daedulus has moved on. There is another post about him leaving the world of the DSM.