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"Cowl Induction" hood setup help. Raising hood from hinges question. [Merged 5-9]

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I noticed that my engine runs real hot....I was wondering, how can u cool an naturally aspirated engine down???

How do you know it's running hot? The stock gauge is imprecise.

I mean it's pointless to have an intercooler without a turbo, but what other options do I have....is there any other ways that i may be able to cool it down????

Intercoolers cool intake air, not engine temperatures.
 
VelocitàPaola;151234599 said:
How do you know it's running hot? The stock gauge is imprecise.



Intercoolers cool intake air, not engine temperatures.

Yeah it seems like its imprecise, i mean when i open the hood it is really really hot and it seems like it takes hours for it to cool down even when i leave the hood open before i start working on it....I just replaced the thermostat so i don't think that is it....What else could possibly be the problem??? Should i replace the stock gauge? I plan on using nitrous on this car also, so i mean i wanna figure out this problem......
 
Those engine bay temperatures are probably normal and have nothing to do with how the cooling system is performing. It takes time for very hot, metal parts to cool down.
 
VelocitàPaola;151234613 said:
Those engine bay temperatures are probably normal and have nothing to do with how the cooling system is performing. It takes time for very hot, metal parts too cool down.

Mayb your right, It just seems like cars i've had in the past didn't take this long to cool down before i worked on it...I dunno mayb it's just me
 
TWO 9" WIDE X 3" TALL reverse vents in the hood provide optimal escape for the hot engine heated air whirling in the engine bay. Using your stock windshield pissers is the best guide for centering your vents and obtaining the perfect location.

This modification requires body work and painting skills though and is not a task left to any amateur.
 
TWO 9" WIDE X 3" TALL reverse vents in the hood provide optimal escape for the hot engine heated air whirling in the engine bay. Using your stock windshield pissers is the best guide for centering your vents and obtaining the perfect location.

This modification requires body work and painting skills though and is not a task left to any amateur.

I wanna see pics if you have them on anyone elses car?
 
I wanna see pics if you have them on anyone elses car?

Actually doing this for my hood right now. Although all my projects are on hold until after my wedding in september. I also havent updated my mods or avatar in forever, but I'm not going to till im done :sneaky: . If you can wait till about novermber or december I would be more than happy to show my finished projects. Vents are nothing fancy though, I'll show you the locations on a paint sketch.

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side view of the hood.

hood vents arent really noticeable when looking straight on at the car. They is about 1/2" raise/hump right before the vent starts. Thats just 1 of 2 totally different vent ideas for my hood. I havent actually started cuttinG yet just drawing and measuring.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Those vents will take air in from the higher-pressure area at the base of the windshield. However, let's try to stick to the original question.

Get a real temperature gauge and see if you're really running "hot". You probably aren't, unless your cooling system is filthy, or the water pump has shit the bed.
 
cars are meant to run at a optimal temp and no matter what you do the car will try to run at that temp. putting holes in you hood will help with air movement but wont help with motor running cooler. you need to check your cooling system from radiator to heater core to thermostat, cap,hoses try a flush job don't take much to plug something up.
 
hey i'm having the same problem i already change cap, thermostat, using 14"fans cfm2000 and it only gets hot when i'm park.

Open your hood in the driveway and let the car idle. Watch and make sure your fans are kicking on. If they are then you might need to take off your radiator cap and let the car continue to idle. Watch to make sure the t-stat is opening and the coolant is flowing. Let it burp itself and continue to add coolant until its full to the tip. Make sure your overflow bottle is full as well, because as you drive the system is a self burbing system assuming you have proper pressure. As the air gets worked out of the system it leaves room for more coolant. If you overflow bottle is full then it will pull from the bottle and add it to your system.

About a month ago my car was getting hot only while idling so I checked my coolant and the overflow bottle was empty and there was no leak in the system. I added to the overflow bottle and checked it the next day it was empty again. I filled it one more time and its stayed full ever since. There was just air in the system from my t-stat change and it was keeping me from completely filling the system, even though, I filled it until it was overflowing while the thermostat was open.
 
.

About a month ago my car was getting hot only while idling so I checked my coolant and the overflow bottle was empty and there was no leak in the system. I added to the overflow bottle and checked it the next day it was empty again. I filled it one more time and its stayed full ever since.

Did ya get skeered on that one (ie HG) :sneaky: ?

MB

Oh yeah, on topic, do what 4UH8ERS said.
 
My engine outside temp is very hot (can sizzle skin when touched (intake manifold)) can I cut the hood and install a scoop to help the heat escape? Someone told me that ALL dsm and mitsus are very hot under the hood
 
Yep. We run hot, and it takes forever to cool. If you really want to decrease the under hood temps, get a hood vent, keep your heat shields, and use header wrap.
 
you can do what some hondas do, raise the back of the hood (near wind shield). This lets hot air out.
 
I'm right there with you! Aside from shielding the exhaust manifold by wrapping it, maybe using one of those heat dissipating intake gaskets, removing the A/C condenser, ensuring you have adequate air flow through your radiator, there are body mods you can start on.

Ok, so here's my current project/s:

Custom Scoop - Under $100
Already Done:
Cut the hood directly over the radiator, just behind the front cross member support.
I measured the distance from the front of the hood and then drew the lines with a washable Crayola marker. Removed the heat guard and cut the front part off that the scoop will be drawing in.
I used a metal cutting/grinding blade on a circular hand saw with only about 3/8" depth below the guard and cut directly over the support that goes perpendicular to the windshield.
The grinding wheel heated the metal a great deal and caused the paint to blister when I went too fast.
Then using a hand held jigsaw with a sheet metal blade, I cut total about 16 inches across and 3 3/4 inches back. The jigsaw blade cuts smooth and narrow and takes some time on the corners.
Each step I used black primer to avoid rust, keep it clean, and ensure coverage on parts that will later be covered.
Then using foam from a marine supply store (they use if for fiberglass boats), I shaped what will be a low profile scoop that extends near the front of the hood about 2.5" past the prepared hole, so it blends nearly straight into the curve of the hood.

Finishing up the project:
Monday, after applying some form release, I will be covering the foam with resin-soaked fiberglass mesh and using bondo to finish off the edges.
Then I will (carefully) remove the foam with a blade and some solvents (The foam will dissolve when wiped with gasoline or TB cleaner.)
(This scoop is VERY low profile and custom to avoid looking ricer. The foam has already been shaped to have an underside support where the hood support is to direct air in two directions (exhaust manifold and intake filter) and will have wire mesh inserts to protect from debris.)

Rear vents est. cost Under $50 (and a lot of work to do it right):
Using similar cutting techniques, I will cut near the rear of the hood where the supports have similarly large areas of open space.
The vent will be a little more tricky, because the air intake for the cabin is right there and I don't want engine bay smell inside.
I have devised a little vent system that will try to project all the air upward and outward to the passenger side using the extra engine bay airflow from the scoop, while I cover the passenger side cabin intake.
I will provide pictures as soon as I can get everything situated.
 
Do you have any pics of the project/finished project?

I've seen some talons with the heat vent close to the pass-side windshield. I like the idea of raising the hood though like Vprime said but I think first thing I will do is use the header wrap, and heat vent (soon). Thanks guys!
 
you can do what some hondas do, raise the back of the hood (near wind shield). This lets hot air out.
The rear of the hood, at the base of the windshield, is a high-pressure area. That's why your vent intakes are there. Lifting the rear of the hood, or removing the rubber seal there, will jam air into your engine compartment, fighting the cooling air trying to escape out of the bay.

We won't address what Hondas do on this site.
 
you can do what some hondas do, raise the back of the hood (near wind shield). This lets hot air out.
If they're doing that to let hot air out they should go talk to the musclecar guys about cowl induction and what cowl hoods were designed to do (hint, it wasn't to let air out of the engine bay).

The best way to let air out is to vent the hood with proper vents. Carbontrix.com sells the one I have on my car. I might even put another vent on the hood closer to the windshield at some point to further increase hood ventilation.

Anyone interested in lowering underhood temps should check the road race forum on this site and also check with RRE, as they've been road racing these cars for years and have plenty of experience fighting underhood temps.
 
If you are good at metal fabrication you could cut three sides of a rectangle out of the hood, then bend it down and weld trusses to the vent and hood on both sides. With some bondo and paint it will look perfect. My brother did it on his car's hood for less than $100. Including paint and metal. The under hood temp. is forty degrees lower at a twenty mph roll.
 
The rear of the hood, at the base of the windshield, is a high-pressure area. That's why your vent intakes are there. Lifting the rear of the hood, or removing the rubber seal there, will jam air into your engine compartment, fighting the cooling air trying to escape out of the bay.

We won't address what Hondas do on this site.
Ah, I should no better then to fo what hondas do :coy:
How about the greyforest mod?
 
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