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engine guide

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Illyjah

Proven Member
39
2
Aug 26, 2014
Toronto, ON_Canada
Hi guys
So I'm looking for a used 4G63...I'm just wondering how can I tell if the engine that the dude is selling me is really a 4G63?..just by looking at it, it looks like a 4G63 but is it possible it's not for an eclipse?

Sorry I'm a little all over the place. The engine is out of the car...and when I called the mechanic that the engine is being stored at he asked me if I was the guy that called earlier about the engine stating that it wouldn't work. And when I asked what's wrong with the engine he just said yea come by and pick it up. So is there a way to check the engine while it's out of the car on a crate?

I know the tech probably won't want to do a compression test and all that stuff unless I pay him...I want to rebuild it but I don't have the time at the moment. Life happened LOL
 
On the front of the engine, behind the water pipe that goes across the block, is a flat spot, it will have the engine code and engine serial stamped in it, like so:
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4g63 can be turbo AND non-turbo. To make sure it is turbo, you will have to look inside the block while it is upside down, and see if there is an oil squirter for each cylinder.
 
It isn't a for sure way, but also looking at the oil filter housing and oil pan will be a good indicator. A non turbo will have a non cooled oil filter housing, and no hole in the pan for the oil drain line. Again, this isn't 100 percent because they could of been swapped out at some point, but it will give you a good idea.
 
Thank you guys. Is there anything I can do to check to make sure the engine works? It's not on a stand...it's just sitting there on a crate. I know the tech won't do anything unless I pay him...
 
You could do a leakdown test and remove the pan and look for metal flakes. Other than that there isn't too much you can do.
 
If the head is off, spray some lubricant down the cylinder walls, and turn the crank. with no pistons/rods, you should be able to turn the crank with 2 fingers, with pistons/rods, obviously more than 2 fingers, but it should still be smooth.

Take the oil pan off, make sure there are no blatant marks at the bottom of the cylinders from where a rod bent and smashed into it.

Might also help to take a telescopic gauge and caliper to measure the cylinder wall diameter. If the block's been machined too much, and you have to machine it more, it might be useless.

How much are they asking ?
 
+1 to what tmoney20g said^^^^
check under the valve cover, it should look golden brown in there... on a well maintained engine, if it looks really black or really dark then more likely then not, someone forgot to change the oil on time...

Also make sure the motor has the right mounting points for the frame, most of the 7 bolt motors for 2g dsms wont work in the 1g dsm frames due to not having the front and rear mounting points... if your a 2g owner you can use either motor.
 
There was a classified for a 4G63 saying the guy had an evo head on it...is there anything special about the evo head? I thought the evo's 4G63 were the same. I mean apart from the newer ones that has MIVEC.
 
Agreed t money is right any blatent or obvious damage is usually visible look for cracks and use a straight edge and see if there is any warpage to the block.it should have the iD plate as seen above look at the cylinder walls for scoring and crank end play should also be checked.
 
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