engine break in question

[nick]

Hello everyone. So I got my car last night, everything runs good no smoke.I ask my mechanic if there is a good way to break in my car in he told me to drive it hard for the first 100k. then change the oil. So my question is, is this the right way to break in my engine? can I dive it over 100k? Please help. Thank you.

 

[GSXSixteenG]

100k or 100 miles. Everyone has their own opinions on engine break in techniques. I chose the drive easy and stay out of boost.

Has the oil been changed since it was assembled and started? If not, I wouldn't drive more than 25 miles before I changed it. If so I'd still only drive 100 miles then change it again.

 

[Bud92gsx]

If your engine guy told you to drive the hell out of it for a hundred miles, you need to get your money back......

As long as theres a warranty, do it,...

Nah but seriously, I have heard don't beat the hell out of it for 1000 miles..Some say 500 miles is fine...But at least don't beat it for a 3 full tanks.....That's what at least 600 miles.

Yep+1 to the above guy...Make sure you don't drive too long with the break in oil, still in the car..MAke sure its changed out..

 

[nick]

I just got the car last night. He give me 6 month warranty.

 

[ArmyGSX]

Ive heard many differant things on this topic. When I do my 6bolt I will follow this
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I guess it just makes sense to me.

 

[Backinajiffy12]

Have have 2 ways.....drive it for 1000 miles no boost call it good....or do 3 long all VAC pulls.
1. build slowly up to 120mph...no boost
2. Down shift so you are always VAC'ing
3. Do that 3 times, Change your oil
4. drive it nice for 100 miles
5. call it good!

 

[needsy]

Since he has given you a warranty, I think you should listen to his suggestion. A quick search would have turned up this long thread on the topic: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html.

Many people report good results with the methods given here: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power.

I certainly wouldn't run it for more than 100k without changing the oil. In fact, I would change it sooner. The first few km are when the most break-in wear happens, which will pollute the oil.

 

[livedsm4g63]

1. build slowly up to 120mph...no boost

What road are you driving on?

 

[Backinajiffy12]

Roads in the middle of Bum F**k no where

 

[livedsm4g63]

haha alright, ill make sure to stay away from there

 

[donniekak]

I use a method similar to the motoman method and have 165 psi in all 4 cylinders after about 8,000 miles of pure hell. My engine saw 30 psi within 100 miles.

 

[ThomasG-1b]

I've heard too beat the piss out of the engine, but to do it at different speeds. And try to not keep the engine at the same rpm. Also did he give you the spec's for the bearing clearance? That way you can find out what type of oil to run. i.e. Tight clearance you have to run thinner oil. And large clearance you have to run thicker. You have to remember that the break in oil has all the junk that he used to rebuild the engine floating in it. Like the lube used for the bearings and journals. I would beat the piss out of it for 100 miles then change the oil.

 

[nick]

Thank a lot for the info guys.

 

[UnderWorld]

what year is the car? cause brand new cars dont need a break in period because their clearences just keep gettin smaller and smaller so no need to set rings anymore

 

[nick]

It's a 1991 TSI AWD

 

[crash89]

To kind of piggy back off of this, I was just wondering what kind of boost to run for this method? Ive heard a lot of people doing this method including a friend of mine who is a honduh tech. But I was just curious as far as boost, I was thinking maybe stock or around 10psi? How much have you guys ran with this method?

 

[twalters09]

the way your going to drive it is the way you should break it in, if your going to go out and rip on it, then do it up, why would you baby it to break it in then go out and stomp on it and wonder why something breaks, if you motor wasnt ever up to that rpm and you stayed around the same you have the potential to form rings on your sleves, thats the best thing i can tell you, i hope you have fun in the new motor

 

[jlr2196]

10 psi will work just fine.. Personally I feel that is a good boost to break-in a new engine since you need to get it tuned & if you have it cranked up to 30 psi and not properly tuned you'll just foobar the engine.
It's really about getting a high load on the engine and up in the rpm, nothing to do with boost. If you can, try and do your full throttle pulls on an uphill grade. This will simulate a dyno load break-in on the street.

 

[Clutch GSX]

Here's what I do:

Let the car warm up completely
do a 2nd gear pull to 4000 RPM let it drop down to 1500 RPM all engine braking (don't touch the brakes)
2nd gear pull to 5500 RPM then let it drop to 1500 RPM all engine braking
2nd gear pull to rev limit and let it drop to 1500 RPM again. Do the same in 3rd gear.
Immediately change your oil and filter. There will be the majority of your metal shavings in this batch as your rings have filed down the cylinder wall about 70% by this point. Not to mention and other shavings + any lubricant + foreign materials that were left during the build process.
Let the engine cool down completely.
Let the car warm up to op temp and do the 2nd and 3rd gear pull deal again.
Let the car cool all the way down.
Let the car warm up to op temp and do the 2nd and 3rd gear pull deal again.
Change the oil and filter.
Drive normal city driving only for 100-300 miles and change oil and filter again and you're broken in.

You really can't change your oil too much during break in. You can change it a few more times if you feel the need. Better to be safe than sorry. P.S. All oil should be conventional (not synthetic) You can switch to synthetic after about 3000 miles. Oil should be at least 10W40 if not 20W50 for break in. Use quality oil filters! Magnetic filters and drain bolts are always good too.

I wouldn't boost more than 15PSI but you should have some boost.

 

[ziggo0]

Here's what I do:

Let the car warm up completely
do a 2nd gear pull to 4000 RPM let it drop down to 1500 RPM all engine braking (don't touch the brakes)
2nd gear pull to 5500 RPM then let it drop to 1500 RPM all engine braking
2nd gear pull to rev limit and let it drop to 1500 RPM again. Do the same in 3rd gear.
Immediately change your oil and filter. There will be the majority of your metal shavings in this batch as your rings have filed down the cylinder wall about 70% by this point. Not to mention and other shavings + any lubricant + foreign materials that were left during the build process.
Let the engine cool down completely.
Let the car warm up to op temp and do the 2nd and 3rd gear pull deal again.
Let the car cool all the way down.
Let the car warm up to op temp and do the 2nd and 3rd gear pull deal again.
Change the oil and filter.
Drive normal city driving only for 100-300 miles and change oil and filter again and you're broken in.

You really can't change your oil too much during break in. You can change it a few more times if you feel the need. Better to be safe than sorry. P.S. All oil should be conventional (not synthetic) You can switch to synthetic after about 3000 miles. Oil should be at least 10W40 if not 20W50 for break in. Use quality oil filters! Magnetic filters and drain bolts are always good too.

I wouldn't boost more than 15PSI but you should have some boost.

Good method, this is pretty close to what I do.