Engagment problem, still no fix

[krummel45]

I am having problems with the clutch. I have a 2600#act with stock flywheel, master and slave cylinder just replaced along with rebuilt tranny. My problem is that it does not go into gear really smoothly. It goes in but its hard to down shift. I have the push rod to the end of the threads. My problem has not gotten any better and I think its starting to slip a little bit. What should I do next?

Thanks

 

[brryder]

I'm having the same problem as you. Installed the act2600 2 weeks ago. My i have to push hard to get the car into 1st gear (doesn't grind). The rest of the gears goes in good, sometimes it's hard to go in thouhg. I have replace the master and slave, ss lines, added shims under pivot ball, adjusted the pedal. I'm gonna take the flywheel out and get it resufaced/step this week to see if it resolves the problem.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Did you properly break in the clutch?

 

[deusxmachina]

If the flywheel wasn't cut, the ACT will release poorly.

 

[splattj]

If the flywheel wasn't cut, the ACT will release poorly.

Yup
Check out
http://www.teamrip.com/clutch adjustment.html

5. Flywheel step height is probably the most important thing when it comes to the clutch working properly on a DSM and it's most often overlooked. If you install a new clutch always machine the flywheel to the clutch manufacturer's specifications. DO NOT ASSUME THAT JUST BECAUSE YOU BOUGHT A FLYWHEEL FROM A REPUTABLE SHOP THAT THE STEP HEIGHT IS CORRECT FOR THE CLUTCH YOU ARE USING. This varies with each clutch but most DSM mechanics agree that .608-.610" is the preferred step height when using most aftermarket pressure plates and discs. By machining the step height shallow it puts the spring plate fingers more on center. This in turn gives a more effective release and less pressure required to disengage the clutch. When you pick the flywheel up, have them measure the step height so you can be certain that they cut it to your spec and not what the "book" says.

 

[krummel45]

So if i adjusted the clutch rod out and it started to slip that means that the flywheel was not cut correctly, or what other options could it be because i bought the car with the clutch in it and im not sure if the flywheel was cut corectly and i dont want to take the car apart to find out.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

That might be the only way if you cant figure it out visually or without ripping it out.

As for the clutch slipping after you adjust the rod, You might have adjust it to far and that is now the reason it is slipping?

 

[krummel45]

Ya i know but the thing is when i was adjusting the rod out it seemed like it was staying the same if not geting harder to put in to gear does this mean i may have just over adusted and missed the sweat spot? Or does this say that the flywheel is out of spec.

 

[larryriverside]

I had the same problem. I fixed it by taking the flywheel out and having it stepped correctly.

 

[AWDlaserRS]

I have a problem similar to your problems. When I push in my clutch which is a brand new ACT 2600 and stock flywheel it makes a grinding noise and I cant get it into any gears except reverse and when it is in reverse it grinds alot and the car moves even with the clutch in. So it like it is barely disengaging. The thing is I had a shop step the flywheel to .612. By the way when I first put the clutch in It seemed to disengage good and the car went into gear easily. However when I push down the clutch again a grinding type noise. I asssumed this was the TOB, this eally pissed me off because it was a brand new TOB. So I tore it apart and put in a new TOB and now this is where Im at. And it still makes the grinding noise when I push in the clutch. I really need some suggestions guys before I spend more money. Could the grinding sound be coming from the cluch somehow?

 

[ecstasytsi]

Of course the first things to check/replace is the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and rubber line. Flywheel step should be .609-.612. I had this issue for a while and it turns out my clutch fork and pivot ball was worn. The actual ball was worn down and the joint in the fork was worn also. Another note, if you have a 93-94 trans mated with a 6 bolt block, the pivot ball will have to be shimmed. Just like 2Gers have to when they throw a 6 bolt block in. Its the actual tolerances that differ between the 6 bolt from the 7 bolt block causing the clutch for angle to be off a little. You can band-aid fix the problem by using a 1/4" longer slave cylinder rod that will temporarily fix the problem. Just grind the head off a grade 8 bolt. Also make sure the clutch freeplay is set correclty.

 

[blktalon93]

I have read multiple threads and no one seem to have experience the same problem as I am. I am also having a clutch problem where the car will not engage into any gear when the car has been parked for a couple of hours and the car is cold. If I turn on the engine and let it run for about 20 - 30 minutes, the car engages into gear perfectly fine. These are all of the things that I have done with no luck in fixing this problem:
1. Replace Clutch Master Cylinder when it was leaking
2. Replace a leaking Slave Cyl.
3. Install ACT2600 with stock flywheel resurfaced
4. Bled the clutch line numerous times.
5. Adjust the rod numerous times and I even have the longer 2g Clutch MC rod in my 1g.
6. I had the Clutch pedal assembly replaced because it was worn out.
7. Got SS clutch line.

My question is, could their be some kind of problem between the tranny, clutch fork, and the flywheel that would cause the car to engage when the engine is hot and not engage when it is cold? Could this be related to the flywheel not being resurfaced correctly to spec? Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[krummel45]

so could this problem be related to the fork or the throw out bearing or pivet ball? By the way i do have a 2g with a 6 bolt swap are their any extra steps that need to be taken?

Also on thevfaq, they said that you can change the clutch and flywheel in 5 hours by taking off the passenger wheel but it was on a 1g is this true for the 2g as well and if not how long does it take to change the clutch and flywheel?

thanks

 

[ThanatosG]

make sure and replace the Master with a factory mitsubishi ONLY.

countless times i've witnessed remans be the cause of all engagement issues.

especially if right after you blead the system and it works for a short period of time, or the car sits then becomes harder to shift. altho, i have seen a couple remans work alright, but honestly when you combine a new factory mitsu slave/master/ext. slave rod... and adjust it properly. It's so beautiful. oh and shimming the pivot ball slightly is a nice modification.


I HATE ALL reman parts store hydraulic parts.. they are known to be good maybe 1 out of 5 :thumbdown Mitsu parts only. k thx

 

[krummel45]

After reading the last post i did replace the master and slave cylinder and the master cylinder was mitsubishi and the slave was from orileys. My question is that if i can not see the master cylinder leaking how can you tell or could the slave cylinder be the problem.

 

[scotthidley]

When you bleed the clutch system, you need to have the pedal adjusted so that it is starting to back down from the top. You might also want to back the slave off the trans a few turns of those 12mm bolts. Once you bleed it, tighten the slave back down, then adjust the clutch pedal. If you have the pedal adjustment maxed out, bleeding it will reset it's initial state, so you will then only have adjustment in one direction.

For cars that are notchy when it's cold out, if you're using BG, that's most likely why. I haven't had that problem using GM or Pennzoil, but I always noticed that with BG.

 

[krummel45]

I got to thinking could this be caused by a bad slave cylinder because the one i had installed was not from a dealer. how can you check to see if the slave cylinder is bad? On the other hand i dont know how much if any fluid has droped from the resorvore.

 

[TimG]

Who did your clutch change Kremmel? If it was a shop, ask if the flywheel was resurfaced to "ACT" spec. Not Mitsu spec. If you did the clutch change yourself and are not sure if the flywheel is machined right, I'm going to have to say it's not. You have to have it stepped properly. It's critical.

 

[trbotaln]

my car did the same thing after I bled the clutch. I bled it again and an air pocket came out , and everything was great.

 

[krummel45]

The thing is the clutch change was done by the previous owner and he does not know if it was steped correctly and i do not have the money to rip it out and check unless im 85-90% sure. Ill try rebleeding and see what happens.

 

[Mark S.]

Shim your pivot ball, extended slave cyl rod, bleed the thing like crazy. It might never stop. I tried everything and never got satisfactory results with mine, I ended up swapping clutches this fall for a puck clutch with a lighter pp. ACT :thumbdown

 

[44pirate]

I did a 6bolt swap, put in a new ACT 2600 with the ZACT flywheel new fork and ball, the MC and SC had 12000 miles on them, had no problems. The step height is very criticle with ACT.

 

[krummel45]

I bled the clutch today and no results. And now my clutch is slipping and i keep adjusting the rod but its not helping this time could i have worn out my clutch?

 

[Mark S.]

try pulling up on your clutch pedal... if it pulls up then you need to get the pedal assembly welded. If its slipping its probably because you adjusted the master cylindar rod out too far.

 

[krummel45]

thats the thing the master cylinder rod is at a point where it should not be slipping but at the point where it should not be dissengaging. So now im really confused.