Spyder Electrical guru's PLEASE help

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I've had amperage draw for quite a while. Have found its on the "room lamp" fuse, but have checked rear view mirror lights, foot lights, door switches, trunk switch and light, vanity mirror lights and cannot find the culprit. My question is can I remove the room lamp fuse and drive it till I find it and not hurt anything? I've read it resets the ecu and cel every time you turn off car, is this true? And if so does it put it back to base tune, or will it still hold current tune with ecmlink? I HATE electrical shit

 

[petrosian]

There’s a lot of stuff on that fuse, and what you’ve heard is true about the reset but I can’t speak for the tuning side.

One of the other circuit lists includes a glove box lamp that’s not on the #11 fuse listing. Did you check that out too?

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[dwb]

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3summary
(referring to v2, but also applies to v3): "Changes made by the user to the configuration of the ECU were saved permanently in non-volatile RAM."
Which means it will retain all user-programmed settings even during loss of power.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3summary
(referring to v2, but also applies to v3): "Changes made by the user to the configuration of the ECU were saved permanently in non-volatile RAM."
Which means it will retain all user-programmed settings even during loss of power.

Thats good to know thank you

There’s a lot of stuff on that fuse, and what you’ve heard is true about the reset but I can’t speak for the tuning side.

One of the other circuit lists includes a glove box lamp that’s not on the #11 fuse listing. Did you check that out too?

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I did not going to check.now. honestly didn't even know there was a light in there

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

There’s a lot of stuff on that fuse, and what you’ve heard is true about the reset but I can’t speak for the tuning side.

One of the other circuit lists includes a glove box lamp that’s not on the #11 fuse listing. Did you check that out too?

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Is this acceptable? It throws me off because all the videos have it set to 10a but mine is 5a, is it the same?

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[petrosian]

It’s no different from the videos, that 10A and 5A just mean the maximum it can measure when the dial is turned to that spot.

0.03 Amps is just 30 milliAmps (three hundredths of an amp) which is definitey not a lot of current…. You measured this across the battery ground right?

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

It’s no different from the videos, that 10A and 5A just mean the maximum it can measure when the dial is turned to that spot.

0.03 Amps is just 30 milliAmps (three hundredths of an amp) which is definitey not a lot of current…. You measured this across the battery ground right?

Yes, red lead on ground cable, black lead on negative battery post, pulled all fuses this is the only fuse with amperage draw. Battery tests good at 12.73v

 

[petrosian]

Just curious, do you have an aftermarket radio installed?

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Just curious, do you have an aftermarket radio installed?

I did, it was at .63 draw before I removed it, dropped to what it is now but still killed battery

 

[petrosian]

Older cars anything less than 50mA is considered ok. I asked about the radio because some people have had issues with wiring new radios in older cars (the orange illumination wire that is supposed to dim the radio lights when you turn on headlights is one I can think of).

This is one of those keep testing until you find the cause problems. How long did it take to kill the battery after you had unplugged the radio? And that was from a full charge?

Also it looks like another guy was chasing the same thing back in 2015:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/parasitic-draw-like-everyone-else.499117/

No followup though..

Haha there’s a lot of people that have chased this same problem on the 2G room fuse it seems.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Older cars anything less than 50mA is considered ok. I asked about the radio because some people have had issues with wiring new radios in older cars (the orange illumination wire that is supposed to dim the radio lights when you turn on headlights is one I can think of).

This is one of those keep testing until you find the cause problems. How long did it take to kill the battery after you had unplugged the radio? And that was from a full charge?

After I took radio out and recharged battery it would die after a day or two of not driving it. I've resorted to Taking the room lamp and radio fuse out to keep battery from dying. This has been ongoing for upwards of a year . Gonna leave room lamp fuse In over night and see if it dies again or not.

 

[DogWhistle]

One of our parasitic draws turned out to be a bad door lock actuator in the driver’s door. Be sure to measure across the relay pins under the driver’s side dash for both the door lock and theft relays.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

One of our parasitic draws turned out to be a bad door lock actuator in the driver’s door. Be sure to measure across the relay pins under the driver’s side dash for both the door lock and theft relays.

I'll definitely check those out tomorrow thanks

 

[DSMPT]

When I bought my 2g, it had a parasitic draw. Every few days I needed to charge the battery if I don't drive. Finally I pin-pointed the location. It was at the passenger side key cylinder switch. The switch has plastic notches and it was cracked and loose. I just zip tied to hold the notches to hold it on the cylinder and the parasitic draw was gone.

 

[curt-s]

To put it in perspective, a standard LED runs ~20mA at full brightness

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

well it didn't die overnight like usual, will continue to monitor. didn't act like there was any drain when i started it up this morning still cranking strong. Maybe i didn't let it sit long enough . Thanks for all the info. Once again I HATE electronics and wiring guess I should really start learning

 

[Vegas Smith]

I feel your pain with electrical issues. Your best bet, as mentioned, is to take it one step at a time and totally unplug one item at a time.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I feel your pain with electrical issues. Your best bet, as mentioned, is to take it one step at a time and totally unplug one item at a time.

yes I am most definitely not a pro, or even close . just trying to learn as I go. I've unplugged interior light bulbs, door switches, trunk switch and bulb, and gonna chock it up to being the crappy aftermarket radio that I had installed. We'll see what happens.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Just for interest, I have had a new battery be bad and act alot like your issue. My 1987 Toyota Camry Wagon would start 3 days in a row, then the 4th day, be dead. I checked for amp draw and only had a small amount from what I figured was the radio clock. I charged that battery and it would do the same thing, start for a day or 2 then be dead. I actually had this happen on my Chevy Truck too. I snagged the Camry Wagon for $300 bucks and put a NEW new battery in it and it has worked flawlessly ever since, and the same with my truck (but it had an old battery in it). I am just saying sometimes it comes down to the battery, which is the least likely culprit.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Just for interest, I have had a new battery be bad and act alot like your issue. My 1987 Toyota Camry Wagon would start 3 days in a row, then the 4th day, be dead. I checked for amp draw and only had a small amount from what I figured was the radio clock. I charged that battery and it would do the same thing, start for a day or 2 then be dead. I actually had this happen on my Chevy Truck too. I snagged the Camry Wagon for $300 bucks and put a NEW new battery in it and it has worked flawlessly ever since, and the same with my truck (but it had an old battery in it). I am just saying sometimes it comes down to the battery, which is the least likely culprit.

That's crazy, this battery was bought brand new a year or so ago. If all else fails I guess I'll have that tested at the autozone I bought it from and see what they say. But it does hold a charge if room lamp fuse was out.

 

[petrosian]

Definitely keep us posted on what happens. It’s good info for future folks

 

[chrysler kid]

When I bought my 2g, it had a parasitic draw. Every few days I needed to charge the battery if I don't drive. Finally I pin-pointed the location. It was at the passenger side key cylinder switch. The switch has plastic notches and it was cracked and loose. I just zip tied to hold the notches to hold it on the cylinder and the parasitic draw was gone.

This is 99% of the parasitic draw issues on a 2g. Typically if you unhook the battery and immediately hear the doors lock or unlock or click, the key cylinder switch inside the door is the culprit. Its a little sensor on the back of the door lock cylinder that tells the door lock module if the cylinder is being turned. If its crooked the door will always try to lock or unlock the doors and drain the battery

The other draw ive had was a faulty alternator.

You typically want to measure amp draw with a base reading, to me that is car off and everything off, and then turn on the headlights or running lights to compare the draw to the base all off.