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EgoThief

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I would run it also. My curiosity would make me do it LOL! I want to know if that old plate was cracked. Or maybe it's cause the seal was tapped flush?? Who knows. But you got new parts and you've done this job enough times to make it worth it to try, that's how I see it. Good luck brother I really want to see you enjoy the fruits of your labor 👊
 
Ive been off and on with this car, mainly because of this Texas heat since April & of course other things around here. I've done a few pulls & with the help of Tony @AWD-Tony , we've managed to get it running fine. There are still adjustments to be done but just been so busy around the house to mess with the car. The few times I had taken it out, there has been no leaks. I took the vehicle out to get some wot logs yesterday( but didn't) and went to my uncles shop to talk to him about fishing this weekend. When I had got home, I went in to open the garage and when I pulled it in, I notice an oil spot again. I didn't care to look at it yesterday cause this machine has got me so discouraged, I've lost a lot of energy to even bother. I took a look at it today and it seems to be leaking in the same area. My timing belt is wet, not soaked & I believe my crank may have some scoring which is allowing the seep/leak of oil from the main seal.

I wont get rid of the vehicle but I know I need to replace this engine or possibly the crank. I'm going to need some professional help from a shop that can check my remaining cranks, and blocks. If I can't piece anything together, i'll be looking for another complete engine &/OR another 1g vehicle. whichever bundle lays out in front of me


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Ive been off and on with this car, mainly because of this Texas heat since April & of course other things around here. I've done a few pulls & with the help of Tony @AWD-Tony , we've managed to get it running fine. There are still adjustments to be done but just been so busy around the house to mess with the car. The few times I had taken it out, there has been no leaks. I took the vehicle out to get some wot logs yesterday( but didn't) and went to my uncles shop to talk to him about fishing this weekend. When I had got home, I went in to open the garage and when I pulled it in, I notice an oil spot again. I didn't care to look at it yesterday cause this machine has got me so discouraged, I've lost a lot of energy to even bother. I took a look at it today and it seems to be leaking in the same area. My timing belt is wet, not soaked & I believe my crank may have some scoring which is allowing the seep/leak of oil from the main seal.

I wont get rid of the vehicle but I know I need to replace this engine or possibly the crank. I'm going to need some professional help from a shop that can check my remaining cranks, and blocks. If I can't piece anything together, i'll be looking for another complete engine &/OR another 1g vehicle. whichever bundle lays out in front of me


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I feel your pain. This is one of the more tedious spots in the car to diagnose and repair. Do yourself a favor, take a deep breath, and step back for a sec.
 
Well, I just finished pulling the engine. I have a spare crank that is within oem specs and is going to replace what I have in there now. I'm still searching for some front sleeves that'll fit the worn crank. I know I'll find it here soon, just ready to jump back in this machine again.

I made a list of things I need to touch up and replace before I put it back in. This time it'll be even more ready and that much better. I'm debating if I should get that fp exhaust manifold that everyone has or just keep using this unknown tubular. After this fix up, I should be able to push it where I had plan. I was barely running 10lbs and was having a blast.(I'm still new to this turbo stuff) but, I'd love to get it to the 18lb+ region. Anyways, I'll keep yall updated as soon as 🤘
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I Put the pan on w a new gasket, ofh is on/replaced with new gasket(got rid of water cooled model), removed hard water lines and put back the rear seal. I do have a stock water pipe with no nipple to exit but it's kinda dirty/rusted and I don't want to clean it up. I can run the hose back to the thermostat housing from water pipe but it'll look crazy and may touch the manifold,etc. I rather plug it at the housing and use a water pipe with no exits. I'm going to search cause I think I seen an aftermarket one somebody made for the 4g63. I need to find out which sensor this is and replace it. I'll start on the timing side tomorrow 🤘
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I decided to just clean up a water pipe I had laying around and install it. I didn't get to the timing. I was taking my sweet time making sure this thing was clean and all the major rust or gunk was out of it. I saw the aftermarket water pipes at around 300+ so it was a great motivation to stop being lazy LOL
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For your consideration :
You "might" opt to leave the timing cover/belt off until you have the oil system hooked up. I like to hang the motor in the car, oil lines connected, and then I put an electric drill with pivoting socket head on an extension so I can crank the oil pump independently and check for leaks/oil pressure.

Also - as you are in 6-Bolt - 1G land - you "might" also what to consider cutting the timing belt cover into two parts, so the mid cover can stay on with the motor mount parts.

Like so:

And now would be a good time to add a Kiggly crank angle sensor - 2G ish.
 
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For your consideration :
You "might" opt to leave the timing cover/belt off until you have the oil system hooked up. I like to hang the motor in the car, oil lines connected, and then I put an electric drill with pivoting socket head on an extension so I can crank the oil pump independently and check for leaks/oil pressure.

Also - as you are in 6-Bolt - 1G land - you "might" also what to consider cutting the timing belt cover into two parts, so the mid cover can stay on with the motor mount parts.

Like so:

And now would be a good time to add a Kiggly crank angle sensor - 2G ish.
Please chime in and remind me of all this stuff when I get to that point! :cool:
 
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Dealing with a family emergency for the past two weeks. I need to go check/pick up my transmission. I did however pick up an fp green to replace the 16g. With the 280s and fp green, my power band should show some results on the top end. I didn't get to push the 16g but I feel this is the next best move to utilize what I have inside this machine. I'm nervous and excited.

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Sorry to hear about the family emergency. Hope everything is smoothing out for y’all.

Exciting is right! Ready to hear this thing rip! What’s the eta on the trans? I don’t think I’ve read thru your whole build thread yet, so that’s on my to-do list for tomorrow.
 
Sorry to hear about the family emergency. Hope everything is smoothing out for y’all.

Exciting is right! Ready to hear this thing rip! What’s the eta on the trans? I don’t think I’ve read thru your whole build thread yet, so that’s on my to-do list for tomorrow.
I just need to go the shop that has it. He probably misplaced my contact info. The family emergency thing is coming along great, thank you. I'll make time and go check on it tomorrow afternoon.
 
I'm reading about how this fp green should be feed & went through about every page on here about it. I did email the fp shop & they wrote me back .. "

Lorenzo,
That is a valid serial number for a DSM FP GREEN w/ Internal Gate that was originally built 6/30/2020.
You do not want to run a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo but since you do not have a ported oil filter housing, you may see some very high oil pressures and may need to port that out. A journal bearing turbo should see a max of about 75-85psi at WOT and around 25-30psi at idle. I know a lot of DSM's without balance shafts and a non-ported housing will sometimes see pressures in the 100+ psi range and that does not make a turbo happy.
Let us know if you have any other questions.
Thanks!
Amber"


i dont want to take my ofh off and port it. I read justin recommends a restrictor and marty and a few others recommend me remote mount a vacuum block to feed it since I'm using a forward facing ofh.

I'm guessing I need to purchase the 110$ feed kit off fp site and have it run to this block I just purchased from Amazon.

Vacuum block
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The fp feed kit is a 4an and I don't know how to measure the end of this vacuum block to find which adapter I need to purchase to make it accept a 4an line.(the larger port). It comes with one cap, plus i can add back my dummy light, a proper oil gauge and feed to my turbo. I hope this is the correct way to do it. Maybe I need a pressure gauge to read what the overall pressure is running to the turbo? Has it always been this tideous to run an fp green?

Anyways, I'm already beyond neck deep in this and might as well do it right. Any help/suggestions or familiar stories ? LOL
 
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