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ECMlink with Engine Breakin

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johnovision27

15+ Year Contributor
400
2
Apr 3, 2008
Ayr, ON_Canada
I'm going to be starting a newly built motor this weekend and I plan on breaking it in with motoman's process.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

My question is, is it a good idea to do this with a newly installed ECMlink ECU (after being set up for my injectors and CAS), or should I throw the stock one back in? :confused:

I'm not sure the stock one is working properly because it was the cause of some odd ignition behavior before which caused the last motor to shit the bed :banghead:
ie, I would be driving along at a constant speed for quite some time and then it would feel as if 2 cylinders stopped firing. Take my foot off the gas and coast and it would backfire like CRAZY. Once the car was turned off and back on, all was good again but the problem would come back at uneven intervals

Thanks!
 
You would be well off to use stock injectors and settings for the first few hundred miles, unless you are experienced in tuning. The ecu with link will be fine, i would just use stock injectors and settings if i were you.
 
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I'm doing the breakin for my GSX. The picture is my GS. Haha.

Closest I have to stock are 510cc (evoIII I believe) I know it won't be a perfect tune for that first run, but after that, I can take some time for it to idle and get the setting up to par. Mind you, I'm only able to go off of what I've read and seen.... This is my first time with ECMlink.
 
As for the OP question yes breaking in your engine with link is fine. You just don't want it running rich and washing down the cylinders as the rings won't seat. If you are unsure about tuning then reset all your setting on link to stock and put stock injectors back in then proceed to break in the engine.
 
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I'm confident that I can send the global setting as well as the deadtime for the 650s (-31% and ~210us).
Aside from that, anything else I should be aware of upon the initial startup? (Already aware of the new plug wiring)
 
Do you have a wideband?

Make sure your base fuel pressure is correct if you have a AFPR.

Base timing at 5 deg advanced.

And have fun breaking it in the right way!!!!
 
darn i wish i had read your post earlier... if you have already started using this process then keep it going, no sense in starting the process and stooping it dead in the middle and i hope you have better luck then one of my buddy did with it. i only know two guys that have basically used this method, one guy with a Honda that did almost this exact method on the Dyno (he took his car to the Dyno right after he got done rebuilding his car before reading the page you posted) and had good luck with it. my other friend with a Subaru used this method and ended up burning up 3 piston rings in the process and now he is sitting with a car that has compression test readings of 120,80,80,80... me personally i wouldn't have used this method, because think about it. the guy who wrote this method down (me may not have actually came up with it) and all the other methods that i have read that were similar to it were all being done to race cars and bikes that were being torn down on a regular basis, so who cares if they burn something out prematurly...

just my 2 cents.
 
Well, the engine has been started but only for a couple of seconds. The starter was grinding very badly and once removed, the top bolt mount has actually shattered right off.... :S
So I'll be investigating that today.
I plan on breaking it in on the street. Not exactly "drive it like you stole it" style, but most defiantly not "granny"
 
actually if you think about it you do want to drive it like you stole it... i mean if i stole a car i wouldn’t want to go around driving like a madman and get the attention of the cops :p. i seem to have had the best luck on braking in the car just by driving it like you would a typical every day driver... find a good line in between granny and beat the snot out of it, then drive on that line for 500 - 1000 miles. pull the valve cover and oil pan to check the main, cap, and head bolts go over everything else well to make sure NOTHING came loose and you should be fine...
 
haha! sounds like my plan.

Couldn't start it last night on the account of a broken starter, but thats been replaced and she fires right up :D and then sputters about 45 seconds later and stalls. I think it's because of a vac leak i found around the TPS. Pulled it off, put some RVT around it, and I'm currently waiting for that to set before I go out and start it up again.
 
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