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ecm identification from 1g

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91_talon_tsi_awd

Proven Member
79
1
Sep 29, 2014
guntersville, Alabama
OK. First off couldn't decide where to post this. And still think I haven't searched enough BUT...

I have a 1991 eagle talon tsi awd. (Checking currently to see if m/t is original or swapped from a/t)

Background:: This car is a Frankenstein. It came with basically two other cars (3 turbos.,, 2 engines. 3 heads. 2 interiors. You understand now)
OK the previous owner took a 1990 86k engine and placed it in the car running a non-eprom ecm. He said it ran off another ecu that was tuned but ran rich 9.9:1 and barely ran t that. I wasn't going to get the car but after looking at ecm I noticed a was of wires misdirected. I straightened them out back to factory location besides the white/green and solid green swap. And the car started. I got two ecm's with this car. Oh and a new 20g turbo is installed with a fmic,different injectors and atmospherical bov.

Question: now that o brought it home it won't start. Turns over but no start. I'm wondering is there anyway to look up if this car has to have the EPROM ecm. If it was original and where to check this.

Things checked: 4 days worth of checked grounding. Battery charged. Good spark plugs. Fire on all four. Transistor. And fuel getting to the rail.

Problems as of this morning:::
Clutch has decided to rest in later than I. And stays on floorboard, hoping fluid issue. Still not starting. Have way too many extra parts. (Turbo timer, random accessories, etc)
 
You can pretty much swap any m/t ecu with another m/t ecu, as long as its 91-92 to 91-92 (eprom or not). 1990 ecu is different in that 2 pins move position compared to 91-92.

This link could be of some assistance helping to identify your various ecu's:
http://vfaq.com/mods/ECUs.html
 
After you get the ecu sorted out, you should just give the timing a check. Easy enough to grab a multimeter and see if you have voltage at the coils, injectors, etc
 
OK. So I have read about m/t being transferable. Remember my engine is a 1990. Car is a 1991. I swapped the green/white. And green wires before after finding out about the engine swap. And it started. So. After getting a multimeter it goes like this.

Spark plugs all fire. All injectors are getting fire. Seems that all sensors needed are in good order. (Power steering now leaks a lot. Clutch stuck to floor.) Mpi seems good and one ecm has a leaky cap. **have a rebuilt ecm. Can't find where to check fuel pressure on rail. But timing marks don't line up on cam sprockets. Dowel pins never face up at the same time. Making me lean towards timing issue. Having an ASE certified mechanic over look this again and help me to be sure. (Has new timing belt.)

Thank u all for the input. Now its off to figuring out what all these aftermarket parts are..... LOL. (Not sure I need 5 boxes full)
 
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[/URL][/IMG] OK gentlemen. Since I'm a noob and you all help the lesser man. I went to tackle my timing. And this is my result.... I looked up a lot on it and have never done a dohc before so.... I'm lost the marks are not across and will not line up..but dowel pins are facing up... which is a plus. Right??

Any help or insight would be great!
 
From the looks of that pic, the dowels are not currently "straight up" in the pic; they should perpendicular with the top of the head, not straight up of however you have your car jacked. Looks like they're pointing at 11 o'clock... Nor if they were straight up, would the marks match. I'd say you're belt is off a tooth somewhere.
 
OK I put it perfectly straight at the marks at the crank and cams lining up. Problem is it starts now... BUT there is something horribly wrong. It makes clapping noise up front such as valves clapping the piston...
But will run. So!! Now what....[DOUBLEPOST=1412662359][/DOUBLEPOST]Not for sure now what to do. Stuck with this car as my only mode of transportation. Maybe I can get this thing apart And check it all out.
 
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Alright so no longer taking advice from a certain "knowledgeable DSM owner". The wiring on my ecu was cut and swapped from green to green/white wires. OK car was running but surged at low rpm. Was told to swap those back to correct position. Green to green etc. So I did. Drove green no surge! Until I stopped the car and the ecu caught fire in my floor board! And it heated popped and was pouring smoke into the car. The insides are toast... and it was a recent rebuild. The original wiring seemed to make it rum correctly but why if it was obviously incorrect.[DOUBLEPOST=1413414321][/DOUBLEPOST]Update wired it back to the green wire swap. Plugged in spare ecu and. Drove 20 feet and it caught fire.....

I have no clue what to do here.
 
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The number 6 and number 14 pins at the ECU are either green and green w/ white for different years. Neither should cause the ECU to blow up. Neither should cause a fire.

A hackjob for wiring, however, would most certainly lead to electrical fires. This is a lot of the reason why it is greatly frowned upon to cut the wiring at the ECU rather than swapping the pins which can be done relatively easily: How to remove/replace pins in harness connectors. I can't say the wiring is why the ECU blew up but I wouldn't be shocked (no pun intended) to find out if it was.

I don't see where it says you determined and shared what year ECU you have. The year of the engine is irrelevant. What matters with turbo DSMs in swapping ECUs into different cars is the year of the harness and year of the ECU. The only scenarios to swap pins 6 and 14 on a turbo 1G are:
  • '90 ECU with either '91, '92, '93, or '94 engine control harness
  • '91, '92, '93, or '94 ECU with '90 engine control harness
Only advice that can be given at this point with the information provided is to fix the wiring, verify it is correct for whatever ECU you are using, and try again. Be sure to mount the ECU back in its original position as well; don't leave it flopping around in the floorboard.
 
Ok all the wiring hacking was done before I purchased it. The ecu I just burned was a 90 starion ecu... the one that was rebuilt I'm unsure of.. **information was printed on ecu case.

The wiring is letting the car run and drive ad only did this today with two ecu! The at has been cranking and running poorly for a week without a fire. The ecu is not mounted. It is on the floorboard with harness right on it. No need in mounting it until I sort this out.
 
The wire hacking needs fixed, regardless of when it was done. There are a couple reasons I would suggest the ECU be mounted and not in the floorboard:
  • Every time the ECU shifts in the floorboard, the wiring going to it is seeing undue stresses it wouldn't normally see if mounted. How old is that wiring and how long has it sat in a single position before it started being meddled with? One thing about wiring anything -- if it doesn't have to move, don't let it and it will last a long time. Those stresses will wear it out over time.
  • The second reason is because of the hacked up wiring. If something isn't copacetic down there and you've got the wiring moving around, you increase the risk of arcing the wiring and causing electrical fires.
  • Lastly, how long does it actually take to remove an ECU? Five minutes or so if you've got the paneling off already.
Again, the wiring must be fixed. Worry about the engine when the wiring is done. Of course, when you get to that point, consider a compression test and a leak-down test if necessary.
 
Update ::: wiring was fine. Problem was the IAC or isc (which ever u choose to call it) which cause the burn up transistor on the ecu. With the spare I resoldered in another. Unplugged the IAC. And he ran fine. No surge no miss nothing but the ticking. Well after driving in a parking lot I took it down the road shifted at 3200rpm into 4th and heard a loud clunk. The car then died and wont start back. The car cranks and attempts to start up hits for a couple of rotations makes a noise and dies. Not sure the issue but I'm about to scrap this 80k block and go back to the original engineand replace the crank.. or part this thing out completely.[DOUBLEPOST=1413502188][/DOUBLEPOST]19eclipse90. I also tracked all wires back and made sure all was well the ecu was and is mounted as suggested. Current issue leads me to valve or bearing issue... not quite sure until I can get the car home (1 mile away and towing company says it will be 4 hours to get to it and $85... they are 1.6 miles from the are location...)
Hoping I can figure out all the gremlins or find someone else who wants to!
 
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Well. I pulled the plugs after 'he-man'ing the car home. The #1 plug is obliterated. Its all welded together. Took a lot to get it out. The rocker intake valve on cylinder one was not in place when I removed the cover. It will undergo more extensive evaluation will soon enough. And check it for further damage. Hoping its contained I'm the #1 cylinder and head. Hopefully no crank/rod/bearing damage.[DOUBLEPOST=1413589792][/DOUBLEPOST]This is the way they looked coming out of this tragedy.
 

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