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TurboMeUP

Proven Member
51
0
Oct 22, 2013
Norton, Ohio
been building my car from a shell for about 2 months now, finally got the car running put 1.2 miles on the head moved the cam angle sensor (rookie mistake) to try to get the engine to stop sounding like it did (sounded kinda rough and was shakey) finally got it to sound decent and BAM my timing belt snapped and the head i put 1.2 miles on has bent valves now.

going to have to go get it done for the second time. looking at about 1100 from repairs for the shop its at now, seems totally unreasonable to me ,

might take it somewhere else considering a head shouldn't take more than 5 hrs to take out and put back in (how long it took my my first time ever doing it) + 100 for the gaskets and bolts (again) was thinking it shouldn't cost more than like 1000 head rebuild shouldn't be more than 250, 5 hrs labor estimate at 90$ (which is pretty high) an hr is 450 and gasket + bolts 100 = 800 .. thoughts? opinions?

(p.s. my timing belt snapped in idle in my driveway only moving its done is being pushed on and off a trailer)

the only reason i pulled the head before but can't this time is because my girlfriends dad is a mechanic nd i used all his tools and he basically walked me through it but now he's sick of the car (after about 100 hours of free labor:D:D) and doesn't want to touch it anymore :cry::cry: so i'm all alone on this one

i leave for the air force dec 3rd and i really would like to take this thing out a few times before i leave . but right now doesn't look like it'll happen :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

I'm going back to the drawling bored with this one
 
I've never ONCE done any car repair more difficult than a oil change or replacing the linkage on my Jetta, and i'm currently in the process of tearing the head off of my car to replace it, it's really NOT difficult, just get individual sandwich baggies to put all the bolts in, label them and you'll be good, I promise. you have to TRY to screw these cars up, pick up a Haynes manual and the tools that DSMBandit mentioned, and you can do it.

At least give it a TRY, the car isn't running now, and if you tear the whole thing down yourself and can't put it back together, well you learned some new stuff AND saved yourself a ton of money in the process, since now they don't have to charge you to take the head apart.

I like your idea and thanks for the advice . I guess ill just try it again worst case : I forget where something goes and girlfriends dad gets mad I have to take it to him because he hates my car :p
 
We all say the same thing get some tools and fix it. If you are serious about fixing it get the shop manuals as they help with diagrams and such. They are around $25 or so on ebay. You could get a basic tool set like this and it would do most of what you need. You could be even cheaper and ditch most of the SAE stuff and go Harbor Freight and only get the items you need. You could be out with a basic tool set for probably $150.
Craftsman 309-Piece Mechanic's Tool Set: Love Your Job at Sears
 
We all say the same thing get some tools and fix it. If you are serious about fixing it get the shop manuals as they help with diagrams and such. They are around $25 or so on ebay. You could get a basic tool set like this and it would do most of what you need. You could be even cheaper and ditch most of the SAE stuff and go Harbor Freight and only get the items you need. You could be out with a basic tool set for probably $150.
Craftsman 309-Piece Mechanic's Tool Set: Love Your Job at Sears



ive done it before in an actual garage , with a mechanic answering every question i've ever had, this time i would be by myself and if i mess anything up im kinda shit on. i'll probably end up just doing it and seeing how it goes


edit: thanks for the link to that tool set too
 
I started working on cars three summers ago and had never done anything but a car stereo install. The manuals have been my best investment. I got my DSM and it seized a water pump on the third drive. I ended up doing a bunch of maintenance, timing belt, HG and a few things on my own within a couple months of having the car. It just takes patience and research. Another great resource is the VFAQ.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

I honestly think between this site, use search of course, the VFAQ site and the shop manuals there is not anything you cannot get fixed.
 
thanks jun, ill probably end up doing it myself by this weekend, just need to get my car back
 
Get one of these. It makes it cake to change the valves and springs. I had never done any kind of head work before, other than installing cams (which if you can change a timing belt, you can change cams), borrowed one of these from a friend of mine and changed all my lifters and valve springs in my cylinder head ON THE CAR, in a couple hours.

Mitsubishi 4G63 Valve Spring Compressor

Thread it into the head, put the piece on the top of the spring and screw it down til the valve retainers pop. Kind of a tedious job, but very straightforward and simple.
 
yeah but i messed with the cam angle . i don't have pics because the car is in the shop nd the belt is on the seat. i'm pretty sure it was literally just a black belt with nothing on it no numbers or anything



link me

What do you mean you messed with the cam angle? Are you talking about the CAS? If you are, messing with that sensor had nothing to do with your timing belt snapping...
 
What do you mean you messed with the cam angle? Are you talking about the CAS? If you are, messing with that sensor had nothing to do with your timing belt snapping...


are you sure? i was told it messes with the overall timing
 
It messes with ignition timing. Totally different from mechanical timing.
 
It messes with ignition timing. Totally different from mechanical timing.

thanks for the response wes, i found a head in the classified for a good price. i'll be picking it up when i get paid and it'll be going in my car probably saturday :D
 
It messes with ignition timing. Totally different from mechanical timing.

Exactly. Make sure you set your tension correctly and replace your tensioner with an oem unit. Also, do a thorough inspection of all the timing components if you do end up tackling this job yourself. I've never seen a belt snap that quickly. Something is definitely off.
 
I was just saying that he adjusted it trying to fix a "rough running motor" isn't going to help his situation at all. I would imagine bad mechanical timing PLUS bad ignition timing, with a bad adjusted belt can go downhill fast. But no the CAS alone isn't an issue but it shouldn't of been messed with. I wasn't trying to put incorrect info, but thanks for clarifying for me 4g63t.
 
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Some progress pics for you guys :)
 
I hate to tell you... But that head bent valves at some point in its life.

Looks like you have factory 6T exhaust valves, and I do not know what brand intake valve, But they are not factory.

Head is clean so thats good, and and even color in the combustion chambers, that's another good sign.

It also looks like it should have a good thickness to it.

The red valve seals, better than the black or grey ones, decent there

Looks to be stock springs.

What are the letter on the cams?
 
I got the head redone when I bought the car it had like 7 bent valves. Fixed them all. My timing belt snapped and I took it to a shop they said that my compression was too low.. im think they lied just to get work because my valves look fine to me? When I had bent ones it looked like shit

Ill let you know the number on the cams tomorrow. Im in for the night. The valves are just advnanced auto ones. I plan on just buying a built longblock in the near future when I get out of basic training (I leave dec 3rd) and let me tell you. That red stuff does its job. A rubber mallet and a chisel were my best friends for the whole removal

ok looked at the cams today. they both said m1 on the top one said 24 bout half way down i think it had an a on the other swide and i think the other one had 15 on one side and b on the other side
 
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