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DSM Buyers Guide - What to look for when buying a DSM

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After reading a ton of questions like "what should I look for when buying a DSM?" and "how much should I pay?" and "is this car worth it?" and "what year DSM should I buy?", I've decided to do a little write-up on buying a DSM for a typical DSMer.

1. What year/make DSM should I look for?
This varies greatly depending on what you want the car for, what you plan to do with it right away and how much you have to put into it. If you are a typical DSMer and you want performance, then you probably want the year that has the best of everything. If you want a 1g, that would be a 92, as it was the last year that came with the 6-bolt motor (pre-April manufactured date), it had the bigger brakes, the stronger rear axles, and LSD and ABS together. The only drawback with the 92 is that few, if any, came with an EPROM ECU, which you can pick up later anyway. Now, this is just the best year to choose for factory options. Keep in mind that you can always swap in the bigger brakes and the stronger axles - I did. It's just more work and can be a little more expensive.

If you're looking for a 2g, there is not a whole lot that makes one year better than the other except for maybe the 95 came with an EPROM ECU. However, most people like the look of the 97-99 car, so you'll have to decide between spending money on an ECU for tuning or the looks of the car. Most DSMers will end up tearing their car down and putting in better parts anyway. So don't be too concerned with choosing the right year as opposed to a car in better condition and lower miles. What you want most is a good starting point.

2. How much should I pay?
This depends on a number of things - like the condition of the car, the mileage, the local market, the number of mods, and of course, your budget. The first place to start is with the online pricing guides, like KBB.com. Don't ask how much you should pay in the forums - it's a waste of time. An online pricing guide will tell you what the car should be selling for. If the owner is charging more than what the pricing guides say he should be, then you have to decide if you want to pay more than the suggested price. In most cases, I'd bet you can find a better deal. Keep in mind however, that some of the older DSMs are tough to find in good condition. So if you find a car that you like in the color combo you've been looking for, you might want to pay a little more than the pricing guide says, especially if there aren't a lot of DSMs in your area. That's up to you. Typically, the more mods the car has, the harder it's been driven. I usually lean towards cars that haven't been modded, but that may be tough to find these days. And sometimes the people who drive them harder take better care of them.

3. Things to look for when inspecting a DSM
There are many, but I'll try and touch on them all. First, make sure you know all the recalls for the year you're looking at. See if they've been completed. Most dealers put a sticker on the underside of the hood. Look very carefully to see if the car has been in an accident - and ask the owner. They should tell you. Make a list of things that will need to be fixed after you buy it... things like: leaky valve cover gasket, leaky power steering pump, cracked vacuum lines, leaks under the car, check the belts, ask when the last timing belt was replaced, check the oil, check the brake pad wear/brake lines, check the tire wear (for alignment issues), check the CV boots, etc. Take the intake pipe off of the turbo inlet and check the shaft play of the compressor wheel - it shouldn't move. If you're not concerned about replacing a turbo soon, don't worry. Do you smell burnt oil in the engine bay? Is the engine bay dirty and not well maintained? Is the oil black instead of brown? Are there any black deposits on the dipstick or the underside of the oil cap? Does the car smoke? All bad signs. Ask for receipts for all repairs made to the car and regular maintenance. If they don't have any, be a little wary. Take notes on everything, including VIN number and build date of the car (in the driver door sill).

When driving the car, how does it feel? All DSM trannies tend to be notchy when shifting, but is there grinding? If the car has a lot of miles, you may need to put money aside for a rebuild. How is the clutch engagement? Is there any slipping in the higher gears under load? Clutch replacement can be expensive. Does the car try to pull to one side when driving straight? That could be a bad alignment, or signs of something worse. Does the car accelerate smoothly? Any irregular sounds? Try every gear and make sure they all work well. Go over speed bumps and listen for knocking or creaking noises. (For you 2G folks), take a few hard left-hand turns. Do you feel the clutch get light or drop to the floor? Does the idle drop when you press in the clutch? If so, walk away from the deal. That's what we call "crankwalk".

After driving the car, do another check under the hood. Check in the driver floor board too - if the carpet is wet or if you smell hydraulic fluid, the clutch master cylinder is probably leaking. Check for leaks in the engine bay, under the car (tranny, transfer case and rear end).

Keep a list of all things you think you'll have to get replaced or fixed and see check pricing for it all. You may find that it could be expensive. Be sure to get a Carfax report. The little money you pay for the report could save you a ton of money in the end. You might find out that the car had been wrecked and repaired. I usually steer clear of cars that have been wrecked. And don't ask for someone else's Carfax account in our forums. Pay for your own.

Is the car worth it?
You'll have to make that decision. Don't ask us this question in the forums either - it's too subjective. Only you can answer this question, and with the information you've collected above, it shouldn't be too difficult to answer. Offer only as much as you're willing to pay. If the car has high mileage, keep in mind that you may have to keep money aside for major repairs, just as you would with any car. The car is only "worth it" if YOU think it is.

How much is my car worth?
Simply go to Edmunds.com or Kbb.com and they'll tell you. If your car is modded, expect to get less for it.

I'll add more when I think of it. Wisemen, feel free to add to this article.
 
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