turboglenn
15+ Year Contributor
- 6,375
- 111
- Nov 5, 2007
-
RIpley,
West_Virginia
This is a quote from another member from one of my threads about shifting troubles and MC problems and differences found HERE
SO i have been racking my brain and have only come up with a lack of travel in his clutch fork, meaning something's off in the hydraulic system. If you read about my notes on MC variations in my thread above you'll know there's chances to get severely rong combos going on and not know it, especially ifg you got the car 2nd hand that way, or swapped and don't recall what clevis you used or came with the MC you bought.
So i want to put this thread towards solving his and anyone elses issues that might be having problems that see unsolvable by all means known, Mainly offering some custom MC modifications that avoid using the longer slave rod (band aid) and increase master travel which in turn increases slave travel.. please go trough his other thread if you need more info (as well as my other one)
So after some measuring and some figures i came up with a couple custom solutions to try and fix this and i'm hoping he (dragonov) will be willing to test and provide accurate timely feedback (or anyone else in the same boat who'd be willing to take their time to test some of my custom clutch system pieces)
Please look at the other thread of mine for pics of the variances in master assemblies to get an idea of what i'm going to be doing and my goals with this project..
trying to decide to post pics of what i've done so far or not......hmmmmmmmm
What i'd like from anyone willing to help that has some new/used/whatever complete master cylinders from 1g or 2g to gimme info as follows (styles are described in my other thread)
state 1g or 2g, then clevice style (round or flat metal U) and then measure the rod from the master and if possoble break it down into the lengths of both the threaded and unthreaded areas. orif you don't want to pull them apart to measure give me the measurements from the base of the MC body to the tip of the rod with clevice removed (but knowing what clevice the MC CAME WITH is the most important thing on this for me right now)
Please help me help the others
SO i have been racking my brain and have only come up with a lack of travel in his clutch fork, meaning something's off in the hydraulic system. If you read about my notes on MC variations in my thread above you'll know there's chances to get severely rong combos going on and not know it, especially ifg you got the car 2nd hand that way, or swapped and don't recall what clevis you used or came with the MC you bought.
So i want to put this thread towards solving his and anyone elses issues that might be having problems that see unsolvable by all means known, Mainly offering some custom MC modifications that avoid using the longer slave rod (band aid) and increase master travel which in turn increases slave travel.. please go trough his other thread if you need more info (as well as my other one)
dragonov_elite said:If i try to start the car with it being in gear and the clutch pressed the car will lurch forward as if the clutch was not pressed. If the car is running and you try to select the any gear you will grind gears.
I replaced my old MC with a new 2g OEM MC so i would think the clevice would be the proper one. Have any pics of the 2g clevice?
If you want to follow my whole journey on this problem here is a local dsm forum with my problem thread .
Clutch engagement problems. - WI-DSM.com
So after some measuring and some figures i came up with a couple custom solutions to try and fix this and i'm hoping he (dragonov) will be willing to test and provide accurate timely feedback (or anyone else in the same boat who'd be willing to take their time to test some of my custom clutch system pieces)
Please look at the other thread of mine for pics of the variances in master assemblies to get an idea of what i'm going to be doing and my goals with this project..
trying to decide to post pics of what i've done so far or not......hmmmmmmmm
What i'd like from anyone willing to help that has some new/used/whatever complete master cylinders from 1g or 2g to gimme info as follows (styles are described in my other thread)
state 1g or 2g, then clevice style (round or flat metal U) and then measure the rod from the master and if possoble break it down into the lengths of both the threaded and unthreaded areas. orif you don't want to pull them apart to measure give me the measurements from the base of the MC body to the tip of the rod with clevice removed (but knowing what clevice the MC CAME WITH is the most important thing on this for me right now)
Please help me help the others