dont buy glowshift products

[zhjiln]

To any person who is going to buy a wideband, please do stay away from glowshift products.

I have a glowshift wideband, least accurate sh!t on sale today. i always calibrate it (outside exhaust) every few weeks.
and it always says i am 10.0 AFR at WOT .. pretty conservative, and safe i thought at 18 psi ...

but evoscan disagrees.... well my with my setup SAFC - 30 on HI across ...
3rd gear pull from 3,000 rpm... and around 4.8K rpm to 6.6K , i get 9 counts of knock (with 71*F intake temps) while the wideband says im at 10.0 AFR....

well, ill be throwing away this junk .. and getting a innovate WB ... so heads just a heads up ... glowshift products
at least evoscan is doings its job ... stupid glowshift WB ..

YouTube - evoscan log

 

[jjrock5]

Well Ive been using their boost gauge for the past 3 weeks and it seems to be pretty accurate...Mayve it's just their wideband but I wouldnt say ALL their products are junk. But I may change my opinion in a longer interval of time...

 

[Artago]

I don't actually own the GlowShift WB but I do own their other gauges like water temp, oil temp, etc.

Anyways, the GlowShift water temp gauge always reads 10-20 degrees lower than DSMlink. I'm assuming the other gauges are off as well.

I'll be replacing my gauge setup in the near future. BTW: I have a AEM WB.

Tom

 

[daren_p]

Have no idea about the quality of their WB's but how do you know for sure the WB is no good? It sounds like your saying, my WB is reading 10:1 & I have knock so the WB must be off? If so, thats not a very good test. Unless you verified it against a known working WB, I wouldn't assume its not accurate because of knock. It doesn't look like you have a very "aggressive" setup (so its not as likely) but even when your running that rich, there is a chance for knock if you have other issues with your tune, bad fuel, etc.

 

[jjrock5]

The way I know MY boost gauge works is I have the glow gauge AND a EBC which reads boost and their both dead on...take it as you wish but I do agree with daren, gotta compare apples to apples.

 

[zhjiln]

nope .. not fuel quality.. always 91 .. even had 100 octane for sh!ts and giggles recently ..
and by the way, i did feel it weaken right where i thought it was knocking before viewing back the log...

well, honestly i rather trust a proven logging software like evoscan, than a company(glowshift/prosport) that uses the 4.9 bosch sensor over the better (innovate,aem,etc) 4.2 sensor ... like people say, newer isn't always better....

ill just go back to wastegate boost.. until i get a real wideband...

by the way, stay away from prosport too (makers of glowshift), my boostgauge is at 3 inHG when the car is off...

 

[Artago]

my boostgauge is at 3 inHG when the car is off...

Same....

Also, when warm DSMlink reads 210 temp and glowshift shows 190-195 ish..... take it as you will but I know that my temp gauge is reading low, my boost gauge is reading low, and I simply can't trust my oil temp and oil pressure gauges.

Could it be an electrical issue? IE: Bad ground?

Tom

 

[GsxEcutioner]

My boost gauge and egt gauge has been in my car since july07 it works good and still working good in my broters mr2 turbo. Maybe it's just you.
-Shane

 

[Jankenshank]

by the way, stay away from prosport too (makers of glowshift), my boostgauge is at 3 inHG when the car is off...

i just bought prosport WB, boost, water temp, oil temp and pressure....

can anyone back up Zhjiln's claims...

from what i read there pretty precise.

 

[skatershawn]

im about to install my glowshift boost gauge.... :/ i hope its just the widebands that are crap!!!
well i can update yall if i have any problems with the boost gauge!!!
one thing tho is that the mounting bolts are positioned funny for where i was going to mount it! but thats whatever!

 

[daren_p]

nope .. not fuel quality.. always 91 .. even had 100 octane for sh!ts and giggles recently ..
and by the way, i did feel it weaken right where i thought it was knocking before viewing back the log...

well, honestly i rather trust a proven logging software like evoscan, than a company(glowshift/prosport) that uses the 4.9 bosch sensor over the better (innovate,aem,etc) 4.2 sensor ... like people say, newer isn't always better....

ill just go back to wastegate boost.. until i get a real wideband...

by the way, stay away from prosport too (makers of glowshift), my boostgauge is at 3 inHG when the car is off...

I don't think your following what I'm saying. I didn't say to not trust your software, if its saying you have knock (& it appears to be legit knock), then you more then likely do have knock. I'm just saying that you could actually be running 10:1 (may be richer most WB's only read down that low) & still be knocking (ie WB could be correct). Maybe your running too much timing or have another issue with your tune? (maybe its rich knock?) To simply state "my WB reads 10:1 & I'm seeing knock so it must be off" isn't a very fool proof test to prove the WB is no good. Because you think your car shouldn't knock when running 10:1, doesn't mean it won't.

I know my WB is accurate, I can tune the car to 10:1 air/fuel & make it knock if I want to. What kind of boost are you running, what's your timing curve look like, still on stock cams, etc, etc?

As for Prosport/Glowshift boost gauges not being accurate, probably not a big news flash. I would be willing to bet most automotive boost gauges aren't accurate (as most are cheep crap with a brand name on them, that they charge big $$ for). You pay big $ for Autometer, does that make them good? I've had 4 different autometer gauges in the past, they were all 1.5-5psi off, brand new (tested against one of our standard gauges at work, that cost $500 & was calibrated against our $20K deadweight tester). If you buy the more expensive electronic gauges, with a pressure sensor, their usually more accurate (my current Defi gauge is much better, less then 1psi off), but that not always the case either. If you want to measure accurate boost a MAP sensor is usually the best route. We sell mechanical pressure gauges at my work, if you look at the Autometer gauge internals, its no wonder alot aren't very accurate. We don't sell any gauges that are that cheeply constructed but if we did, they'd be under the $5 mark.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I can't speak for their widebands, but their boost gauges have been good to me. Have one that has been with me for almost 3 years IIRC and was on par with a Greddy gauge. And know of several other cars who are using them without complaints.

I've had more autometer boost gauges go bad on me.

 

[zhjiln]

I know my WB is accurate, I can tune the car to 10:1 air/fuel & make it knock if I want to. What kind of boost are you running, what's your timing curve look like, still on stock cams, etc, etc?.

yeah stock cams ... had 272 didn't like the idle... 18 psi falling of to 16 by 5700 ...
again, you can watch the video in the #1 post to see the timing ... its not too agressive at all .. i was at 12* when it hit 9 knock sum ... by that 5,000 rpm my AFC was at -35 .... so i think it couldnt be too rich ... with 560 cc injectors ... and i hear you.. maybe i just have bad luck... others who buy might fair better ...

 

[crimsondragon]

I run fuel pressure, boost, oil pressure, and water temperature.
1. Boost is on par with my AVCR boost reading.
2. Fuel pressure reads about 7 psi higher than what it is. But I have it at the end of the fuel filter and before the rail whereas my AFPR gauge is after the rail.
3. Water temperature is dead on. Before I started overheating, I had a 180*F stat. When fully warmed up the gauge read 180*F. Sensor was tee'd into the upper radiator hose.
4. I can't say much for oil pressure as I have no reference. At idle I'm reading 15 psi. Full throttle, maxes out the gauge. Lately the sensor has been acting up.

My take: I think they're shit gauges personally. The back lighting sucks. I don't get a real blue. I get purple. My fuel pressure sensor when I first installed them went out after a week. Now my oil pressure gauge is occassionally doing the same. If you want quality, spend the money on Defi gauges.

 

[97gstnick]

You need to mess around with your timing and see if that solves your knock problem. I run 25 psi on 91 octane and get 3-4* peak timing. Even if I lower it to 20 psi, i still can't get away with much more timing, my car just doesn't like it.

 

[daren_p]

You need to mess around with your timing and see if that solves your knock problem. I run 25 psi on 91 octane and get 3-4* peak timing. Even if I lower it to 20 psi, i still can't get away with much more timing, my car just doesn't like it.

I hope thats a typo, 3-4 peak timing (as in at redline?) If so, I'm surprised you still have a motor left. I'd want to see atleast 12-13 deg at redline on a stock internal motor. If you can't see this add more fuel, run better fuel (or meth injection), reduce boost, etc.

 

[daren_p]

yeah stock cams ... had 272 didn't like the idle... 18 psi falling of to 16 by 5700 ...
again, you can watch the video in the #1 post to see the timing ... its not too agressive at all .. i was at 12* when it hit 9 knock sum ... by that 5,000 rpm my AFC was at -35 .... so i think it couldnt be too rich ... with 560 cc injectors ... and i hear you.. maybe i just have bad luck... others who buy might fair better ...

Stock cams will let you get away with more boost/timing, etc vs aftermarket cams. If you get a good set of 272 cams (ie not BC ), something like FP2's, they should idle pretty close to stock (as long as your timing isn't off).

I'm not sure how knock sum with your program relates to deg knock retard, which I'm use to with DSM/ECMLink. So, I'm not sure how bad exactly that knock is but the area its knocking ~5000 range is where you see peak cylinder pressure & are most likely to knock. I haven't had a stock camed motor for a long time but it does look like your trying to see descent timing for crappy 91 octane gas. I don't recall exactly but I think I'm around 11deg at 5000rpms & climbing to 19deg by 7500 redline but I'm also using pump 94 with meth injection. Without the meth, timing was much lower but this is also when running 25psi, so I guess, hard to compare.

 

[AWD-TSI]

I used to have prosports in my talon, They were ok. They were off a little bit but not much. the thing that bugged me was the delay on them, I had boost, Water Temp, Oil Pressure.

 

[Napster]

Well Ive been using their boost gauge for the past 3 weeks and it seems to be pretty accurate...Mayve it's just their wideband but I wouldnt say ALL their products are junk. But I may change my opinion in a longer interval of time...

I installed a pillar and three glowshift gauges in my car less than two days later i started the car and smelled smoke and i saw the boost gauge on fire! i took pictures to prove proper wiring method was used and they replaced it for me, it was just wild.

 

[Artago]

I had a oil sender and gauge go out on me. Glowshift replaced them with no hassle. They seem to be willing to replace broken gauges with ease.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yep i had a oil sending unit go out, fixed free asap, no problems since, but a glowshift wideband i wouldnt. But i also did research on what i buy, so i wouldnt say for myself all glowshift items are bad, just the one you bought maybe, the wideband is the only gauge i would spend good money on and a reliable maker for the job. Very important gauge, why skimp. Thats my opinon.

 

[907gs-t]

This i know i only have ran with Autometer Ultra-Lite Pro-Comp guage's in my 80 Z/28 & no complaint's & have Autometer Lunar guage's i'll be running in my 98 Eclipse GS-T but for a W.B. still undecided maybe Innovate or AEM.

 

[zhjiln]

You need to mess around with your timing and see if that solves your knock problem. I run 25 psi on 91 octane and get 3-4* peak timing. Even if I lower it to 20 psi, i still can't get away with much more timing, my car just doesn't like it.

yeah i am now running on wastegate boost 10 psi .... and your 3 or 4* is peak timing at WOT ?? wow, thats new ..

might wanna turn down down the boost to get more timing ...


although that brings up the age old question... what is better... high boost with less timing ... or mild boost with more timing and lean-ish AFR (11.7-12.2) ...

if you're happy with 4* peak timing at 25psi...go for it i guess

 

[92AWDHX40]

I was going aem but ill get a innovative during the winter, with many items on the project list.

 

[daren_p]

although that brings up the age old question... what is better... high boost with less timing ... or mild boost with more timing and lean-ish AFR (11.7-12.2) ...

Typically you'll make most power with boost, then timing & lastly air/fuel. I would rather run 10.5 :1 vs 11.5:1 anyday to add a few more degree's timing. Most typical tuners probably couldn't tell the difference between these two air/fuel ratios but they should be able to easily tell when their missing a couple degree's timing with the but dyno.