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1G Don’t buy a pre fab roll cage

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So I found out the hard way your much better off buying a bender and doing it yourself if you choose not to have another person do it..... I ended buying a 1200 dollar bender as I don’t like the halo hoop design. This is what I have so far
 

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Nice work, cage looks good. I have a Rogue Fab bender with air/hydraulic and the dies it was about $1000. It bends vertically which was better for me since I don't have a lot of extra space in the garage for the swing on a horizontal bender like the JD2 or Pro Tools.
 
Nice work, cage looks good. I have a Rogue Fab bender with air/hydraulic and the dies it was about $1000. It bends vertically which was better for me since I don't have a lot of extra space in the garage for the swing on a horizontal bender like the JD2 or Pro Tools.
What I ended up doing is dumping the halo hoop and modified basically everything. Im actually still waiting for my bender, when it comes in I’m going to continue with the front half to complete the 10 point. The halo hoop really isn’t a good fit imo..... I wasn’t happy with the clearance at all. I mig welded 6x6 steel plates to the body per the rules. The rest was tig welded with
Er70s2.im going to make templates for the forward bars that go through the dash. I’m shooting for a 8.50 certification..... hoping I didn’t screw somethjng up
 
im in a similar boat. except mine fits ok but cant find anyone willing to put it in for me that doesnt want an arm and a leg to do it.
 
8 point is nearly completed , just need to weld in the other door bar. The front section will be completed when my tube bender gets here
 

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im in a similar boat. except mine fits ok but cant find anyone willing to put it in for me that doesnt want an arm and a leg to do it.
Its a ton of work..... a lot more than I anticipated. But I’m learning.... that was the point of all of this. You can’t learn or get better if you don’t put in the work. The worse part imo is welding in the support plates on the floor. Welding 1/8 inch plates to thin sheet metal is a pain in the ass. I still need to make a parachute support bar. Im going to do all of that when my bender comes I
 
I'm about to weld in my cage this week, with the floor panels being as thin as they are I'm going to tig them in as well, focus the heat on the plate and walk it over to the base material then quickly back to the plate, have more then one weld ready to go at a time so you can run a little then move to another weld while the first cools, without doing so you run the risk of undercut, blow through. Also get your heat right, get a piece of scrap equal to both thicknesses and run a few passes on those first, not sure how stringent the certification requirements are but eating away of the base material is am instant fail in any application I've ever seen.
 
I'm about to weld in my cage this week, with the floor panels being as thin as they are I'm going to tig them in as well, focus the heat on the plate and walk it over to the base material then quickly back to the plate, have more then one weld ready to go at a time so you can run a little then move to another weld while the first cools, without doing so you run the risk of undercut, blow through. Also get your heat right, get a piece of scrap equal to both thicknesses and run a few passes on those first, not sure how stringent the certification requirements are but eating away of the base material is am instant fail in any application I've ever seen.
You do much better with mig, once I got it dialed in it went quick. The cage I tig welded with pulse with er70s2 filler wire.
 
I get its quicker with mig, however the sides of your plates appeared are away, which is why I had suggested tig. Not putting it down just a suggestion.
 
Just make sure there is no porosity, slag entrapment, undercut or grind marks on the finish product. Its metal it can all be fixed before you cert it. Good luck.
 
The 8 point section is in. Just need to finish welding In the passenger floor plate.
 

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The pre fab roll cage you bought, was it prefabbed specifically for the car (year, make, model) you're building?
 
If you look at the a piller , How the hell am I going to be able to make the front 10 point section tie in . Maybe if I make a bar that curves in , like follows the window and curves in to tie in to the a piller
 

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