I will not lie, I'm not the most consistent driver - often bogging off the line which kills my times due to very bad 60's. I was sad to see that STM is not currently making their staging brake kit, so I decided to do some research and make my own. With the help of this thread: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/installing-a-staging-brake-on-a-2g.383642/. I was able to find all information needed to make a staging brake kit out of parts available in 2021.
For my staging brake setup I went with a Sikky reverse-pull handbrake. This brake is a perfect height for a 2g interior, and the reverse-pull positions the secondary slave cylinder forward, giving more clearance. The slave is a wilwood pass-through setup with a .75 bore with 3 an braided lines.
First, mounting was straight forward. When installed the throw is much shorter than its full travel so keep that in mind (pull is only a few inches when fully installed.) That being said I decided to mount the handbrake where most install them, along side the drivers side center console. This does not interfere with my leg, as it sits far back enough to clear the gas pedal. I drilled 3 holes into the floor and secured the handbrake using large fender washers. (Note: I learned that if you drill extremely slowly through the carpet it works best. If you blast through the carpet binds. Drill at the slowest speed possible until you are through the carpet and you will have no issues).
Once mounted you can now bench bleed the slave cylinder. I decided to do this in the car, since I was constantly pulling back the handle for clearance checks. If bled, this would have made a huge fluid mess. The slave comes with a reservoir in the box (this will not be used once fully installed). Mount the reservoir and fill approximately half way. Temporarily install one of your lines on the front fitting location, and put it into a cup of clean brake fluid. Now slowly pump the hand brake until you no longer see air bubbles forming in the cup. (Make sure you do not run out of fluid in the reservoir during this time, otherwise you will need to start over.)
Once the slave is bled, make sure the reservoir level is low - then put in paper towels to soak up the excess fluid in order to not spill any onto your carpet. Remove the reservoir and install the -3 fitting adapter into the top position.
The top line, 42" in length runs from the stock brake master (forward most fitting location). This feeds the system. The forward facing line, 44" in length then runs to the bottom most left hand side port on the proportioning valve, making this a pass-through staggered brake setup. I found that lines with one straight (to handbrake) and one 90 degree end (to engine bay locations) worked the best. Connect the lines to the handbrake, and now bleed your brakes as you normally would. Since this is a pass-through setup, as long as the handbrake is not pulled back fluid will go to your brakes without interference. When the brakes are bled it is now complete! Took me about 90 minutes to install once I figured out all my lines, and mounting positions. Adjust the handbrake to your liking, I decided to lengthen the throw, which puts my hand closer to the shifter when pulled back.
Here is a list of all the main parts used:
In addition to these parts you will need one 42" and one 44" 3an brake lines, I purchased these from Amazon. Again, one straight and one 90 degree end worked best for me. I also used a 45 degree adapter on the front fitting which looked cleaner to me when running my lines together. You will also need hardware, fender washers, and brake fluid.
Hope this information is useful to anyone looking to add a staging brake to their car.
For my staging brake setup I went with a Sikky reverse-pull handbrake. This brake is a perfect height for a 2g interior, and the reverse-pull positions the secondary slave cylinder forward, giving more clearance. The slave is a wilwood pass-through setup with a .75 bore with 3 an braided lines.
First, mounting was straight forward. When installed the throw is much shorter than its full travel so keep that in mind (pull is only a few inches when fully installed.) That being said I decided to mount the handbrake where most install them, along side the drivers side center console. This does not interfere with my leg, as it sits far back enough to clear the gas pedal. I drilled 3 holes into the floor and secured the handbrake using large fender washers. (Note: I learned that if you drill extremely slowly through the carpet it works best. If you blast through the carpet binds. Drill at the slowest speed possible until you are through the carpet and you will have no issues).
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Once mounted you can now bench bleed the slave cylinder. I decided to do this in the car, since I was constantly pulling back the handle for clearance checks. If bled, this would have made a huge fluid mess. The slave comes with a reservoir in the box (this will not be used once fully installed). Mount the reservoir and fill approximately half way. Temporarily install one of your lines on the front fitting location, and put it into a cup of clean brake fluid. Now slowly pump the hand brake until you no longer see air bubbles forming in the cup. (Make sure you do not run out of fluid in the reservoir during this time, otherwise you will need to start over.)
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Once the slave is bled, make sure the reservoir level is low - then put in paper towels to soak up the excess fluid in order to not spill any onto your carpet. Remove the reservoir and install the -3 fitting adapter into the top position.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The top line, 42" in length runs from the stock brake master (forward most fitting location). This feeds the system. The forward facing line, 44" in length then runs to the bottom most left hand side port on the proportioning valve, making this a pass-through staggered brake setup. I found that lines with one straight (to handbrake) and one 90 degree end (to engine bay locations) worked the best. Connect the lines to the handbrake, and now bleed your brakes as you normally would. Since this is a pass-through setup, as long as the handbrake is not pulled back fluid will go to your brakes without interference. When the brakes are bled it is now complete! Took me about 90 minutes to install once I figured out all my lines, and mounting positions. Adjust the handbrake to your liking, I decided to lengthen the throw, which puts my hand closer to the shifter when pulled back.
Here is a list of all the main parts used:
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In addition to these parts you will need one 42" and one 44" 3an brake lines, I purchased these from Amazon. Again, one straight and one 90 degree end worked best for me. I also used a 45 degree adapter on the front fitting which looked cleaner to me when running my lines together. You will also need hardware, fender washers, and brake fluid.
Hope this information is useful to anyone looking to add a staging brake to their car.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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