DIY 1G AWD Turboback Exhaust
Having looked around for an exhaust system at a decent price, I decided to build my own for my 1990 Eagle Talon. If you have a decent shop and a welder you should be able to do this yourself. I will not go into extreme detail on the bends of the pipes, you will have to cut your bends to size and tack together the exhaust system to fit the stock hanger locations. If you are not confident enough to do this, then I dont suggest attempting the project. I will just show you the basics and provide some helpful tips.
All right, here's a breakdown of the parts/supplies you'll need. I picked all these up locally from metal suppliers, muffler and exhaust shops (you may have to call around). I found that large truck/semi shops had a wide variety of the exhaust parts I was looking for.
Parts I used for my 2.5" to 3" cat-less back Exhaust:
(note: I built a full stainless steel system for around $400 Canadian Funds, expect to pay less for an aluminized steel system)
(note: I could only find 90 degree mandrel bends of SS locally, you may want to try to find some U bends.)
(note: disconnect car battery before welding underneath car)
(note: use correct wire/rod for material used)
For the Down Pipe (2.5")
- ~ 3ft. 2.5" tubing
- 1 - 2.5' 90 mandrel bend (will have to be cut)
- 1 - 2.5" flex section
- 1 - 3" to 2.5" reducer (or expander)
- 1 - 3" flange $2
- 1 - 2 1/4" flange $2 (had to port mine out a bit to match ported stock housing (2.5"))
First thing to do is weld DP flange onto end of 2.5" tubing (excess bead will make it difficult to screw on O2 housing bolts all the way flush with flange). You can port the flange to 2.5" later.
(note: I also had a 2.5" flange for the DP, but slotted holes did not line up with O2 housing studs).
Mock up the bend with tubing underneath the car and mark where the tubing and bend should be cut with a marker. Cut and fit to size and tack pieces together. Now taking into consideration the ground strap and exhaust hanger, tack in the flex section in relatively the same location as the stock exhaust.
(note: you must use a flex section, if you don't, when the motor torque's you will twist the manifold at the head and create a big mess of soot in the engine compartment and not to mention some sheared off exhaust studs, seen it happen!!)
Off the end of the flex section tack on the 2.5" to 3" expander, and the 3" flange onto that (watch excess beading around flanges!).
(note: you may want to add a catalytic converter at this point depending on local emission laws.)
(note: dont forget to reattach ground strap on down pipe in final assembly)
Ok the DP is basically done, hanging of the exhaust will be done last, so you may want to use some jack stands to support the exhaust as your building it from the turbo back.
For the Cat Back (3")(or in this case cat-less back)
- 3 - 3" 90 degree bends
- ~8 ft. 3" tubing
- 1 - 3" flange $2
- 1 - 3" SS straight through Dynomax Ultraflo muffler (or muffler of choice)
- Exhaust Tip - I used a piece of extra 3" SS cut at angle for the tip, otherwise purchase one.
- Optional: ~12ft. 3/8" rod to hang exhaust,
- Hack off factory hangers from stock exhaust and modify to fit.
Ok here comes the fun part. Weld the 3" flange onto the 3" tubing and run the tubing parallel to the car in same place as the factory exhaust (jack stands help here). When you get to the last factory exhaust hanger before the axle, mark where the tubing should be cut and do so. Bolt the two 3" flanges together by the flex section, and mock up the exhaust once again. I cut one 90 degree bend approximately in half (2 - 45's) and used them to offset the tubing slightly downwards clearing the rear axle and towards the passenger rear tire with 3" tubing welded in between them following the factory hanger locations (pictures will help clear this up). At this point the exhaust must snake towards the passenger rear tire and up to the muffler location. (shown in pictures). I used two complete 90-degree bends to do this and tacked them into place. Mock up your muffler in place of stock location and adjust it to have good clearance from the rear bumper cover also leaving the correct length for your tip.
The exhaust is almost complete, now comes time to hang it. I originally purchased some 3/8" rodding for my project but lost it (and now have found it!) and wanted to get the exhaust done. All I did was cut the factory mounts off of the stock exhaust and modified them to fit the factory hangers. Since the exhaust was mocked up underneath the car, I trimmed the factory mounts to fit, and tacked them in place and bolted the exhaust to the car.
3/8" rodding can also be substituted here. You can bend the rod into hooks and hook them into the factory rubber hangers and weld the rod onto the exhaust tubing to hang exhaust.
If the mock up went fine, and the exhaust is now hanging by itself with no clearance issues (you may want to drop car down to take slack out of the suspension) you can go ahead and weld the exhaust system together.
(note: my car with stock suspension and ride height has plenty of ground clearance, easily clears speed bumps, etc )
(note: new gaskets with be needed for 3" flange and DP)
Now the last and final thing to do is to take the car for a rip and let all your neighbors know that you just got a new exhaust.
Check out my webpage for pictures as I am not posting all of them:
http://www.geocities.com/turbo_90_dsm/exhaust_pics.html
Having looked around for an exhaust system at a decent price, I decided to build my own for my 1990 Eagle Talon. If you have a decent shop and a welder you should be able to do this yourself. I will not go into extreme detail on the bends of the pipes, you will have to cut your bends to size and tack together the exhaust system to fit the stock hanger locations. If you are not confident enough to do this, then I dont suggest attempting the project. I will just show you the basics and provide some helpful tips.
All right, here's a breakdown of the parts/supplies you'll need. I picked all these up locally from metal suppliers, muffler and exhaust shops (you may have to call around). I found that large truck/semi shops had a wide variety of the exhaust parts I was looking for.
Parts I used for my 2.5" to 3" cat-less back Exhaust:
(note: I built a full stainless steel system for around $400 Canadian Funds, expect to pay less for an aluminized steel system)
(note: I could only find 90 degree mandrel bends of SS locally, you may want to try to find some U bends.)
(note: disconnect car battery before welding underneath car)
(note: use correct wire/rod for material used)
For the Down Pipe (2.5")
- ~ 3ft. 2.5" tubing
- 1 - 2.5' 90 mandrel bend (will have to be cut)
- 1 - 2.5" flex section
- 1 - 3" to 2.5" reducer (or expander)
- 1 - 3" flange $2
- 1 - 2 1/4" flange $2 (had to port mine out a bit to match ported stock housing (2.5"))
First thing to do is weld DP flange onto end of 2.5" tubing (excess bead will make it difficult to screw on O2 housing bolts all the way flush with flange). You can port the flange to 2.5" later.
(note: I also had a 2.5" flange for the DP, but slotted holes did not line up with O2 housing studs).
Mock up the bend with tubing underneath the car and mark where the tubing and bend should be cut with a marker. Cut and fit to size and tack pieces together. Now taking into consideration the ground strap and exhaust hanger, tack in the flex section in relatively the same location as the stock exhaust.
(note: you must use a flex section, if you don't, when the motor torque's you will twist the manifold at the head and create a big mess of soot in the engine compartment and not to mention some sheared off exhaust studs, seen it happen!!)
Off the end of the flex section tack on the 2.5" to 3" expander, and the 3" flange onto that (watch excess beading around flanges!).
(note: you may want to add a catalytic converter at this point depending on local emission laws.)
(note: dont forget to reattach ground strap on down pipe in final assembly)
Ok the DP is basically done, hanging of the exhaust will be done last, so you may want to use some jack stands to support the exhaust as your building it from the turbo back.
For the Cat Back (3")(or in this case cat-less back)
- 3 - 3" 90 degree bends
- ~8 ft. 3" tubing
- 1 - 3" flange $2
- 1 - 3" SS straight through Dynomax Ultraflo muffler (or muffler of choice)
- Exhaust Tip - I used a piece of extra 3" SS cut at angle for the tip, otherwise purchase one.
- Optional: ~12ft. 3/8" rod to hang exhaust,
- Hack off factory hangers from stock exhaust and modify to fit.
Ok here comes the fun part. Weld the 3" flange onto the 3" tubing and run the tubing parallel to the car in same place as the factory exhaust (jack stands help here). When you get to the last factory exhaust hanger before the axle, mark where the tubing should be cut and do so. Bolt the two 3" flanges together by the flex section, and mock up the exhaust once again. I cut one 90 degree bend approximately in half (2 - 45's) and used them to offset the tubing slightly downwards clearing the rear axle and towards the passenger rear tire with 3" tubing welded in between them following the factory hanger locations (pictures will help clear this up). At this point the exhaust must snake towards the passenger rear tire and up to the muffler location. (shown in pictures). I used two complete 90-degree bends to do this and tacked them into place. Mock up your muffler in place of stock location and adjust it to have good clearance from the rear bumper cover also leaving the correct length for your tip.
The exhaust is almost complete, now comes time to hang it. I originally purchased some 3/8" rodding for my project but lost it (and now have found it!) and wanted to get the exhaust done. All I did was cut the factory mounts off of the stock exhaust and modified them to fit the factory hangers. Since the exhaust was mocked up underneath the car, I trimmed the factory mounts to fit, and tacked them in place and bolted the exhaust to the car.
3/8" rodding can also be substituted here. You can bend the rod into hooks and hook them into the factory rubber hangers and weld the rod onto the exhaust tubing to hang exhaust.
If the mock up went fine, and the exhaust is now hanging by itself with no clearance issues (you may want to drop car down to take slack out of the suspension) you can go ahead and weld the exhaust system together.
(note: my car with stock suspension and ride height has plenty of ground clearance, easily clears speed bumps, etc )
(note: new gaskets with be needed for 3" flange and DP)
Now the last and final thing to do is to take the car for a rip and let all your neighbors know that you just got a new exhaust.
Check out my webpage for pictures as I am not posting all of them:
http://www.geocities.com/turbo_90_dsm/exhaust_pics.html
