2G Digital Gauge Wiring

[spyderdrifter]

I have some Prosport Evo gauges that I'm installing, but want to install them right, not a half-assed way. What would be the best place to tap for the constant power and the accessory wires? And which wire for the dimmer switch would be the right one for the dimmer wire?

 

[ThunderChild]

I'm not familiar with 2g wiring of the top of my head, but I believe the illumination wire should be the positive indication wire, the power-up wires should be your choice of ACC or IGN, unless you want them on the parking light wire (should be a negative trigger for a relay).

I used ACC to a relay to trigger my on function for all 3 of my gauges, passed on the dimmer wire as it doesn't bug me. I use innovate mtx series gauges for reference.

I found that my gauges all draw less than 4 amps each, so a std SPDT 30a relay runs them all fine.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Not really what I was looking for. I have the diagram of the gauge wiring, but want to know which wires are best to splice into on the car.

 

[EC17PSE]

I used a power distribution board and wire all my stuff via that, its relayed via the battery so always see's full power, i took a switched power from the ignition area, its basic but works well

 

[spyderdrifter]

Would you by chance have pictures of how you did it, and the ignition wire you went with? I'd like to do this right the first time.

 

[EC17PSE]

I will see what i can draw up later for you,

 

[chrysler kid]

Would you by chance have pictures of how you did it, and the ignition wire you went with? I'd like to do this right the first time.

There are plenty of ways to "do it right"

How right do you want to do it. You can set up your own fuse box with a triggered relay off of the ignition source directly from the key switch, but it's really irrelevant as the illumination of the gauges has a low draw. Remember the entire illumination of your 18 interior light bulbs has one 10amp fuse on the interior panel. If you want to find the ignition switched accessory 2 power source there is a detailed write up on how to wire a turbo timer or remote start to a second gen. It's overkill

So for the most thorough installation I suggest 2 add a fuse plugs into the factory fuse slot by the pedal. The constant for the memory should be added at the brake light fuse which is a constant, and the second added in the slot for the radio. So you can tap this add a fuse feed for future gauge additions

The cheap and dirty way is just to tap the power source for the light bulb for the cigarette lighter bulb for the dimmer signal power, and the radio yellow wire for the 12v constant, and the cigarette lighter wire for the switched primary wire

There is no right or wrong way to do it. Though I prefer separate power areas, radio in the radio section and gauges in the gauge section. So technically I prefer the fuse slots in the foot well.

 

[spyderdrifter]

My gauges have the fuse slot ends on them so this works out for now. Thanks for the input

 

[chrysler kid]

No worries. I get what you're saying about doing it right and not cutting corners, however the amount of draw from the lights is very low. Your main concern should just be about keeping it neat looking and organized.

It would be nice but overkill to get more in-depth, but tapping the main accessory wires from the ignition switch for power is just over kill, and really add question marks later down the road for the next owner. Add a fuse may not look like the most thorough way to do it, but honestly we all know glowshift gauges aren't a permanent modification that will never be removed. So yeah just be clean about it

My glow shifts were
12v constant for color memory
12v switched for illumation or basically the on signal (cig or accessory fuse slot)
12v to power for dimmer (to make them less bright at night) something that only comes on when the lights are on
Ground

I think I just tested wiring before I ran the wires to know what I needed. I was doing a remote start install at the same time which is what made me realize what a pain the main ignition harness wiring is, and why I kept 3 separate wiring areas. The alarm on the primary ignition switch harness, the gauges on the foot well fuse box, and the radio in the center console. Wires running across each other cause confusion later

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[spyderdrifter]

I'v never had luck with glowshift gauges, so I stay away from them. I got the Prosport Evo premiums so I cam have red and white lighting (since they don't offer those together in normal). So far everything is nice and neat. I'm not a fan of exposed wiring. The only problem is the wiring for the digital boost is a bit long, as well as the oil pressure and temp wiring to the sensors. But I got it zip tied up in a vacant area of the dash out of sight. Sadly this car had the ignition wiring hacked already for the viper alarm I removed after getting it.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Thanks for the help. I got them working this morning. The radio and brake fuses are under the hood, and my wires weren't that long, so I plugged the power wire into the lighter fuse location and the accessory is plugged into the gauge fuse location. The only one not used yet is the dimmer wire, but I'll do that later. Everything else works for now.

 

[chrysler kid]

If it's just dimmer power you can tap it into the fog power source. I used your old write up to make the fogs active from jumping the fuse slots

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sweet. I hadn't thought about that. I need to do the fog mod to this car anyway.