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Did this happen with your UDP install?

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I haven't done it, but I would think we'd encounter the same problem...Im gonna buy a belt a little smaller than the one I got on there...see if that helps it to go away...I even contacted the guy at UR at he told me it sounds like a loose belt...the belt i had is as tight as itll go safely...So next step is gettin a new belt.
 
Sorry I didn't catch this one earlier but I have been moving as explained earlier. This has been my experience with the UDP pulley.

I've installed a few before (maybe about 4) for other 2gnt'ers and most had slight squeel after the install. I work at a chrysler dealership and have plenty of experience pulling these type of crank pullies. The installation technique varied early on for me but once I learned the correct manor, there was no using a BFH (Big Friggin' Hammer) on stock pullies any more. The stocker is pressed on and therefor has to be pulled off. There's a pin that goes in place of the crank pulley bolt to make the proper puller work right. On the install, you basically use a long bolt, a nut, a flat washer, a small cup about the size of a 13/16 3/8" drive socket and a ball-bearing assembly. The pulley is placed on the end of the crank, the flat washer, the cup and the bearing. You hold the bolt in place once it's threaded in to the crank. The nut is then tightened down. The bearing and everything else keeps the nut from grinding in to the pulley on the reinstall.

The pulley is fully seated when you can no longer turn the nut and the entire nut, bearing, etc wants to all spin as one assembly. For those still resorting to the BFH, there is a very distinct sound you will hear when the hammer makes the final blow to the pulley. The sound of the impact is different and you'll know you're all the way on there.

Problems with 420A belts/UDP/Pulley components:
The 1995 talons had an issue with pulley alignment from the factory. The single belt that drives the a/c and power steering will become frayed or slip off all together. There are two possible fixes for this. One is the installation of shims (washers) to tweak the power steering pump bracket itself. If this does not cure the situation, the power steering pump bracket will require replacing all together. This condition should be checked for PRIOR to installing ANY after-market pulley components. If your belt is fraying now you need to check pulley alignment and belt tension BEFORE buying any new parts or trying to shave down the crankshaft.

If you do NOT have a belt alignment problem directly related to the power steering pump bracket condition above then you will still need to check the other pullies for proper alignment. The 2gnt's NOT equipped with a/c make their p/s belt adjustments at the power steering pump itself. The bolts for the pump are loosened and the pump is CAREFULLY pryed away from the engine to apply more tension to the belt. Once proper tension is there, tighten the bolts while still holding the pump back.

For 2gnt's WITH a/c, the power steering pump design is still the same. Adjustments really shouldn't be made here because there is a a second belt tensioning location directly below the power steering pump. This design uses a pulley, a bolt that goes through it and a jam nut on the backside. When this nut is loosened, a bolt can be spun clockwise or counterclockwise to make tension adjustments. This bolt head is closest to the radiator, and the is pointing towards the block. This bolt really isn't designed to be removed and reinstalled as part of the belt tensioning process. If you find yourself at one extreme or the other when trying to tighten or loosen the belt you have a problem.

Problem 1. Belt too short, get a longer belt or see problem 3.
Problem 2. Belt too Long, Get a shorter belt
Problem 3. Power steering pump adjustment has been made in addition to second tensioner

If you have found the power steering pump adjustment to be your problem then loosen it up, move it to the middle of it's travel and tighten back down. After doing this, use the second tensioner below the power steering pump as your primary means of adjustment.

If you still have belt squeel issues then I would try a different brand of belt. There is a number on the current belt you have that indicates the length of the belt. Any GOOD parts counter person will be able to tell you what they can give you that will be the same length or will be slightly different.

About a year ago I put the UDP on mine. The belts were just a tad noisy from day one but I did get the set-up used as we were salvaging parts off a totalled 2gnt. Now they've gotten pretty bad when turned all the way to one side while the a/c is on. I am going to break down and get some belts soon but they can really wait for now. If you're still awake.... congratulations you've made it to the end of my novel.
Doug
 
yankees1919 said:
candle wax? Watd u put it rite on the belt? And is that good for it...wont cause slipping or nething stupid like that

Has not slipped yet and i used a very small amount.but i think it had to do with tightening the belts again. :dsm: :thumb: :dsm: Anyways its working.
 
I bought my 2g with the unorthedox udp. It was installed by a retarded shop and they put belts on it from off the floor and ones they had hanging around( the prev owner said). I'm going to try and buy shorter belts from autozone, My alternator squeaks because you cant tighten the long original belt down any more. And how do you install a a/c belt?
 
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