diagnostic help

[studabaker]

So... the crank seal or rear main seal was a b#*ch to remove and install but complete but the old one clearly had some damaged areas and pooled oil on the lip. A few tips to be sure if any prying is done to avoid contact with the crank and use the outside edge of the block. I also sealed the outside with rtv and oiled the inside in contact with the crank.

 

[studabaker]

The crank seal had to be just right installed a few mm from seated againt the block completely because the crank flange is a few mm from the block, with my rear crank seal installed and the engine back together I am having a starting issue. I have previously needed to improve battery terminal connections but his is different. It will turn over at this time but no ignition. I have a clicking from either the egr relay or the fuel relay. I did not hear the fuel pump when I first turned it on. The fuel filter is suspect as well. I have buttoned up all the spots I previously did not do perfectly and believe this is ready. I did not have the egr valve tight enough and my lower engine mount bracket need some work but it will run the engine for now. The lower brace has taken some beatings. I dont have my cam gear cover on right now but this has inspired an idea of some kind of under body skid plate and dust cover. It seems to have had some more plastic underneath from factory. I will get it started for now.

 

[studabaker]

I have not gotten it started yet but I think that the fuel filter needs to be replaced. From the starter driving it there is some oil coming out of the crank seal again. I checked inside the valve cover and there was oil in there. I thought I had blocked the oil flow when I did the head gasket. I think that the oil s coming out of the crank seal because of lack of flow? Since I found oil in the cams then my theory of a clog is not proven. After changing the crank seal twice I don't think this is my problem. I'm thinking about resealing the head gasket. Almost there! ^#%$

 

[studabaker]

I have researched these wear micro sleeves which fit over the crank and provide better seal for leaks and take any wear off the crank and can be replaced. I am going to try one of these because it is clear this seal is where the oil is.from and nothing else makes sense to cause oil pressure there.

 

[studabaker]

oil in there could have only come from.the head or cylinder. I removed the piston and it seems fine. either a valve seal or a crack in the head.

 

[studabaker]

So after having a different head cleaned and tested I have put a new one on and just need to put the timing belt on and I will know if this resolves my issue. I want to mention some hints if doing this be sure to put the pulley on prior to putting the head on. I like to put the intake on prior and use a few bolts in the head to align it when first putting it in place to prevent scratching of the surface. I have been using the front cam gear to put the timing belt on. I set the crank to top center and put the rest of the belt in place except on gear is off and I keep the the gears still aligned and replace the one gear. If removed while in the correct position the gear should keep the same position when replaced. Just don't start it before verifying that everything is set properly top center for crank and marks to center on cam gears. This is it I'm gonna try it tomorrow hopefully.

 

[studabaker]

I got it started this evening. I will just work on some details like confirming oil leak is gone and timing belt walk before running on idle for half hour. I had some trouble starting which turned out to be that I had the ignition coil pack plug mixed up with the cam sensor.[DOUBLEPOST=1414550499][/DOUBLEPOST]It turns out there was oil that leaked out from the rear main and above the oil filter. I suspect that I have built the lower end wrong or with too much sealant and clogged the oil pathways at some point. I am about to donate it to a good cause and hope they can fix it and maybe give me some money for the quality parts I have on it.

 

[studabaker]

Weird symptoms that it started for me with the spark plug wire disconnected. I think in my amateur opinion that the sealant I put on the oil pump has gotten into the block and clogged the oil pathway somewhere. I am gong to rebuild the block again with supervision.

 

[studabaker]

So I pulled the engine all apart again and there is clearly an area in the bed plate to block surface, at the oil filter, (I guess I thought it should be ok without the o-ring: it was not) there is a clear spot free of sealant where oil leaked. My second place is from the rear main seal and I am going to install a micro sleeve which is going to correct the issue which may have been due to the crank being ground down and then the micro sleeve will resolve this problem. I will be using a thicker lithium grease at the rear main seal to prevent leakage as well.

As for my running problems I am going to be more exact with the timing and re torque the knock sensor in addition to using a more accurate torque wrench in building process. A torque issue was mentioned in a reply and I always thought that was a jab at non turbo, however I have recently learned and suspect that I may have over torqued the connecting rods to create an issue with it rotating perfectly. In regards to the starting with number one spark plug wire disconnected. That is a weird symptom.

Six point sockets would have saved me significant issues on connecting rods. 12 point sockets helped me strip three bolts now. Grinding is the only way but another tip is to grind the lip off and leave a bit in the center to grind a grove for a screw driver. a slight tap once the lip is flush should loosen it. I used a dremel. There is a slight shoulder below flush which will bend with a slight tap and the bolt will loosen, then use the screw driver. Oil will leak out when it becomes loose.


I did not find any sealant clogs and so I did not have it cleaned just prepared it myself by removing all previous sealants and cleaned thoroughly.

I found o-rings at oriley's numbers 214 and 215 from a red box of o-rings they have and break up individually. $5 rather than purchase a new oil pump for the o-rings. The bed plate o ring was slightly larger diameter and thinner than the oil pump o-ring.

 

[studabaker]

This is the rear main seal which has caused my leak and I had previously installed it more towards the block which put it half way off on the inside. I have now lined it up good and installed a micro sleeve on the crank.